This is a stab in the dark, but you are the only person I have seen with an '03 kicking any light at all with TP's... and you are also one of the very few to have TP's yet no intake work done. Maybe you need a CAI/JWT or something to help increase intake capability to balance out your newly improved exhaust ability and perhaps run less rich. I know, it is a shot in the dark, but only thing I can think of. Balance is key.. especially N/A

 

Available at your local automotive store. Spark Plug Non Fouler PN 42009 ($4.99)









You now need to drill out 1 of the non foulers using a 1/2" drill bit. When finished this is what it will look like.





Side by Side comparision of the orignal and now modified non foulers





o2 Sensor inserted in the modified non fouler



Second, unmodified non fouler now installed on modified non fouler



Original non fouler->Modified non fouler->o2 sensor



Fully installed



By moving the secondary o2 sensor away from the direct path of exhaust flow and limiting what exhaust gas can get to the o2 sensor the ecu believes that there is a functioning cat still in the system.

I have confirmed that this works on our vehicles. I have driven nearly 1000 miles with no cel.

 

Sorry it is from a differ forum.

 

Nice write up!

 

My light was always on (every day) because I was commuting and I had TS shooting the 380CC' Injectors from my 190l Walbro pump. BTW, I got rich code bank one and rich code bank 2 with both RT Cats *and* straight pipes. I sell the car and then within hours a fix is announced lol. J/K. Good job Mike!

 

I forgot to add that I could keep the light off for as long as I could keep my rpm's high (around town and short trips) but as soon as it dropped the rpm's (like long freeway drives in upper gears) the light would come on. I always attributed it to the TS tuning foir more fuel into larger injectors in open loop but when the closed loop came and there was too much gas, instant CEL.

 

I posted this fix a month ago - I just didn't attach a bunch of neat pics.

Give me some credit now, d@mn it

Link for proof

 

Just needed some pics to make sure I did it right...LOL

 

Thanks man -







Really not the big of a deal, but when I installed my testpipes and threw a code, I was just dumbfounded that no fix was readily available. I had history with the MIL eliminators so I went with that method. I then started searching around for the another method and stumbled on the HELP! method. Now that pics and and full how-to has been posted, hopefully others will rid themselves of the SES light.

 

I have had three different SES ffixes and non have worked yet so I have my non foulers in the garage and will install them today so cross your fingers for me......LOL

 

I have had my non foulers in for about four days and no SES light yet this is by far the cheapest and easiest fix I have seen to date. It took me about an hour to get the holes drilled in the two non foulers I had crappy drill bits so it will not take very long if you have good drill bits but after that it is a matter of installing the o2s and then you are on your way (Oh yeah if you have thrown the code make sure you cancel all codes before the installation of the new o2 non foulers you dont want to do all that work and then still have the code on there). But you can find these non foulers in almost any Advanced Autoparts, AutoZone and Pep Boys. There is usually an isle that has all the HELP items on it. So look near the bottom of the shelf and get two packs that is right four total. I have called many stores and asked them about these items and most of the time they tell me that they only have one set or package and then when I got there they had about four or five packages of them, so if you call just ask if they have any and then go pick yours out and always get am extra set just in case you have an unsteady hand when drilling....LOL

Good luck.

 

I had my VDC off light and my SLIP light come on for about 5k miles and then they went away. (this was durring very cold weather i.e. 20's)

 

Not your cats etc.....?

 

odd considering i am on stock rims and tires

 

You definitely had some other issue that caused those lights to come on and it wasn't from cats or testpipes. SES light is what you would have seen had it been and o2 sensor reading that was off.

 

LOL sorry got crossed with the info, I dont know bout you but the last time a faulty wire was found it cost the guy 420 bucks just to find the problem area.

 

Oooooops

 

Wouldn't this free up some HP even if you did have test pipes? The ECU would not be trying to curb emissions as much if it thought everything was fine when it came to the cats....

 

No, because the cats themselves 'curb' the emissions. the o2 sensors are there as a check to see if they are working. If they aren't, then you throw a SES light. The ECU doesn't really do anything beyond trigger the light if the readings from the sensors are not correct.

 

I have a dumb question, My test pipes (Labree) don't have the bung holes to put the O2 sensors in. My SES light comes on after driving at WOT, after doing a pedal reset it will go off until I drive at WOT again. Should I have hole drilled in them and do the non fowlers to correct this? The SES light doesn't effect the ECU from adjusting the HP gain from the test pipes? So if the light doesn't bother me I can leave it? I've posted these questions before with no answers and I have an appointment tomarrow to go to the shop any input on what to do would be great. Thanks for the help.