I found this pic in another forum. The owner claims the shield has made a difference. The tip of the filter he says is not hot after driving since installing the shield. He likes the performance and the sound.

Has anyone else installed a pop charger with heat shield and have you noticed a difference as well?
Thanks.
Victor

 

the rsx has a injen intake out there with a heat sheild. it has been shown to give gains on a dyno vs the same intake without the sheild.

 

Looks cool, but I assume nothing has been done to rectify the MAF sensor problems. I'd rather have a slightly slower car that doesn't sound as good than one that randomly stalls while driving.

--
Jeff

 

I believe that the POP charger only contribution is that it sounds cool. Previous threads I have read indicates that you will lose hp and reliability because of the MAF sensor issue.

Yes, I have used CAI systems on other cars that in stock configuration were grossly inefficent and realized small gains. One might be more successful with a cold air POP system and modifications to the intake, heads and exhaust. IMO, just adding a POP charger will not improve performance.

 

I had this installed (see my pics in the modifications forum). I felt no appriciable difference with the pop charger + heat shield over stock.
When the non-shielded charger was dyno'd and showed a 5hp loss, I decided to take the thing off until I see some dyno results.
It definitely sounds nice though, but until I know its actually giving me a performance gain, I'm not putting it back on.

 

I have had it on for about 1300 miles with no stalling problems. I installed the heat shield after about 1000 miles and I do belive I feel a difference. It is possible that I lost a couple of horse when installing the filter and now it is back with the heat shield. So in conclusion, I'm back to stock HP...But it sounds cool so I'm leaving it on for now untill a cold air intake comes out.....I am running my car tonight at Raceway Park in NJ so maybe I'll try both ways.....
Jason
NJ

 

All this highly scientific butt-dyno testing is driving me nuts!

Please, everyone, if you "think" you "feel" a difference, do some performance tests to back-up your claims.

Dan

 

i have it installed, and did notice a louder grow. performance wise not sure, if its like 4-5 hp gain, is that really noticable compare to the 287. But it sure looks cool as hell once u pop open the lid.

 

OK, I installed the POP charger after my car was at 2K miles and drove with it for another 1K miles. It sounded GREAT without a doubt! Then, when I got the heat shield, I put the factory airbox back on and drove for 2 days before I went and had my car dyno'd. I had 3 pulls, switched to the POP charge w/heat shield, drove around for 1.5 hrs, and dyno'd it again. Here are the results.

The first 3 pulls varied from 229hp to 232hp w/o the POP charger and 228hp to 234hp with the POP charger. Depending on which pull you compare you could argue that I gained 5hp and an awsome sound. On the other hand you could also argu that I lost 4hp but gained an awesome sound.

I did experience the stalling issue once. What I've come to learn is that if you hold the cluth in (or put the car in neutral) from high RPM's and leave it in long enough to have the RPM's drop to idle, the car WILL stall. But only if that is how you drive. I rearely had this problem.

My conlusion:
Based on the unimpressive Dyno results and the stalling issue, no matter how rare, I currently have the factory airbox installed. I am keeping my POP charger high on a shelf in a nice clean box so that when an ECU is available I can try again to get some power from this Awesome sounding filter.

 

a few years back i read a this guy's mod on a civic. By doing a sequence of disconnecting fuses, starting, idleing, etc... that with a new air filter or charger that this sequence will kinda reprogram the ECU (well more like train it to use the filter). Now I lost the site, but will try to find when i do, anyone want to try it on a dyno to test.

 

I would reset the ECU after installing any mod. Either by disconnecting the battery at the negative terminal or removing the fuse for the ECU itself. After reconnecting (battery) or reinstalling (fuse) let the car idle for about 15 minutes then drive it fairly hard to allow the ECU to learn the new mod.

I installed an Injen Race Division CAI on my g/f's 01 Eclipse GT and she just could not wait to test it so she drove off and 5 minutes later she had an SES light and some spuddering. She came back and I pulled the ECU fuse to reset. After reinstalling and letting the car idle for 15 minutes then I went and ran the car pretty hard. No more SES, no more spuddering. Have had no problems for 15K miles.

FYI...The MAS on the Eclipse (3.0 V6) is mounted inline with the CAI.

 

If I remember right, the 300ZX also had some problems with stalling when the JWT POP was installed. I think the problem was related to laminar airflow with the POP, compared to turbulent airflow with the factory airbox. If the MAF is an anemometer type (it was on the Z32), it's possible that there is a different calibration when measuring turbulent flow versus laminar flow.

I think that some people had good results by placing a 2" wide strip of aluminum tape on the POP air filter at the 6 o'clock position. I guess the effect of this was to disturb the airflow and trip it back over to turbulent.

This is all from memory, but it's easy to try, so maybe someone with the new intake and the stalling problem can give it a shot and post the results.

wm

 

Yes, the tape works but then what's the point?

Based on my limited understanding of the "venturi" type intake and cone filter, the system is meant provide a less turbulent flow. Changing it to turbulent seems to be contradictory.

 

I'm definitely not the intake expert, but my guess was that putting the cone filter on gave you less restriction, and allows a larger "mass" of air to get into the engine. The laminar flow I'm guessing was more of a side effect of reducing the restrictions in the airbox, rather than an intended change, BUT it throws the MAF off because it's normally set up to measure turblent air flow, not laminar, so your mixture is thrown off because the ECU is getting incorrect readings about how much air is coming in. Maybe someone that has one of those ODB-II scanners could take some O2 sensor readings before and after the POP install, I'm guessing the ECU will have a harder time keeping the mixture in check afterwards.

wm

 

Search for InternetAbyss interview with the Nissan Engineer. The Nissan guy said that any intake mods are worthless unless you remap the engine computer or trick the intake sensor. You are basically wasting money on the pop chargers and maybe voiding your warranties. Plus a +4 hp is a waste of time. Put the money into better speakers.

 

I've had this stalling problem on my Z with the JWT charger. Taping the Air filter did not help much. Have you heard of others having this stalling problem with their pop charger? I have since taken the pop charger off and gone with the K&N filter (no stalling problems with the K&N).

 

I did experience the stalling issue once. What I've come to learn is that if you hold the cluth in (or put the car in neutral) from high RPM's and leave it in long enough to have the RPM's drop to idle, the car WILL stall. But only if that is how you drive. I rearely had this problem.

My conlusion:
Based on the unimpressive Dyno results and the stalling issue, no matter how rare, I currently have the factory airbox installed. I am keeping my POP charger high on a shelf in a nice clean box so that when an ECU is available I can try again to get some power from this Awesome sounding filter. [/B][/QUOTE]



That is exactly how the pop charger will stall your engine. It will happen to my car every time just as described above.

 

Already tried this, it did not work on my Z.

 

I have an RSX Type S currently, hoping to upgrade to a Z. Anyways, After seeing/hearing things with the injen SRI, I dispise SRIs especially with Heatshields. Last time I cared to look they were on the 4th or 5th gen heatshield, don't know if they finally fixed it with that, haven't looked at it in a few months. The damn thing would end up breaking from engine vibrations. The SRI showed the Same/nearly the same gains as the AEM CAI, but after it heated up, the power dropped, while the CAI stayed the same. I'm running an AEM CAI on my Type S, currently, avg seems to be around 12 whp gain with this, now understand 12whp is a high number for an intake, but the Type S stock airbox was very restrictive. I like the deeper tone of the CAI, and the fact it is louder if I want to get attention, although I try to shy away from flooring it too much *cough*. People talk about hydrolock etc, well hell I live in Louisiana, we get plenty of rain, I've had the car for 1 year now, about 6 months with CAI, no hydrolock here. I've hit some unavoidable puddles/potholes of a size I'd like to avoid when possible, but no problems. Now don't get me wrong I'm not an idiot that is going to drive in a 1ft puddle.