steval

The volt meter on my Silverstone touring reads 15 most of the time with minor flucuations. Is this normal? I would think it would read 12 volts.

z350z

When charging (which it should be with engine running), 14-16 volts is normal.

Omega350Z

sometimes i think that they just stuck it there to look cool. One i turn my car on, it jups up between the 2 higest marks, and jsut stays there, heater on MAX, stereo playing, headlights on, winshield wipers goin, heated seats running, 20 degrees outside, yet it still doesnt move! Im thinking of temporaily installing a second volt gauge with my dvd vid setup im installing next week to make sure that the factory one actually does something.

ATL350Z

iTrader: (2)

Aftermarket stereos will make it move for ya.

Peking

iTrader: (2)

It is funny cause I really never noticed it move any lower than 15, then after the Turbonetics install and gauges it now moves when I use the A/C, stereo, head lights to a little above the 12 mark.

the7ferret

I would keep an eye on it... I dont want to create panic but your alternator should always put out 14.1 Volts. If its anylower you might have 1 of 2 problems.

1. alternator is going out.
2. you have too much electrical demand for your alternator which is causing voltage drop and will quickly lead to problem #1 and a car that wont start.

Post what you have electrically.

Peking

iTrader: (2)

Hmmmm... even with this when I start the car it goes straight to 15 (or well alittle over 15)...

There isn't anything else electrically related (that is new), though this did happen...






I was just driving around the other day doing some things, and in the usual Georgia high humidity and 90 something degree weather my A/C went hot... I knew something was wrong and stopped at a gas station, and saw when I opened the hood that this had come off some hooks and started to rub against my belt...


But cause I gots skillz...





Seperated the wires, tape'd them back up... I should have looked for the hooks where it slips into but because of the coming rain I didn't have time to take all the bumper off and stuff looking for both hooks.

I ordered a new one through the dealer, so I guess I will see if it makes any difference.

the7ferret

you say it hovers around 12 with the AC on?

Proably water got into the wire and is causeing the problem.
the new one proably will fix it.

Peking

iTrader: (2)

Hopefully, just waiting for it to arrive... Weird too, I just took a trip to NC yesterday and it was just slighty lower than 14 so I guess around 13

And that was with the A/C, CD, and lights

Darthvol

Alright, guys, since this one has been recently resurrected, I'll join in. Recently had and extensive stereo install done, and like everywhere, it's been almost 100 degrees here for the last couple weeks. Anyhoo, I have a 600W amp (5 channel) and a HU which is 240W (60 X 4). Stinger 1 farad cap was installed.

With top down, I do like to listen to the stereo fairly loud, esp. at speed. Before recent install, in the year I had the car, the volt meter stayed w/in the little "V" and battery icon on the meter (around 14), but now, w/ the a/c and stereo on, I seem to be running btwn 13-13.5, which varies more w/how fast the alt. is spinning (rpm) than with the volume or type of music (thumping bass v. jazz). It also seems to drop, ever so slightly, throughout the day, if I drive for 2-3 hours w/the stereo on.

So far, it has never dropped as low as 12, and I d/n think it has ever dipped below 13. Do I have a potential problem w/alt. or batt. failure? If so, what are potential causes/fixes? Thanks, guys.

Darthvol

One piece of info. I gave out above was wrong: the amp is 1200 watts, not 600 (5 channels), and with the HU, at least one post above would seem to indicate I need a 2 farad cap. instead of a 1 farad, while others think it's a waste of money.

Anyhoo, FWIW, I thought I'd check out our crappy manual and to my astonishment, Nissan addresses the situation clearly and specifically, and says that ANY reading between 11 & 15 on the volt meter is "normal".

Anyone else have an opinion?

the7ferret

Its a 1200 watt peak and and puts out approx 400 - 600 watts RMS
600 watts RMS @ 14.1V is approx 42 amps of current.
600 watts RMS @ 12V is approx 50 amps of current.

You are CONTINUOUSLY drawing between 40-50 amps of current. THe less amperage reserve your alternator has the lower your voltage gets. Adding a cap will increase that current draw as the alternator has to recharge the cap and power the amps. unless you get the right stuff. 1-2 farad caps are a waste of money and run empty within a second. If you want a cap that will actually work you need to get the "C.A.P" by Alumapro (sp*) in a 15 or 30 farad capacties. The 1-2 farad caps are for looks. And offer no true electrical stability.