Looking forward, once the mystery transmission gear grind problem is resolved by Nissan for us, does anybody have experience running synthetic gear oils?

I'm considering changing both the transmission and rear differential oils.

I don't know if there is an advantage to using an Amsoil vs Royal Purple vs Mobil 1 product other than pricing and availability. Are there any additional synthetics I didn't mention?

 

it's in your signature.. REDLINE

 

I changed both at 3500 miles, and I was really glad I did. The oil in the diff was very black and there was a ton of shavings stuck to the magnet on the drain plug.

 

To Apexi350z:

Thanks. You're right.

Kids sick, we're [Mom and Dad] sick with bad colds, so I can't think straight and I forgot about Redline completely.




To zPilott:

My car now has 3000 miles, so the time is now. Did you do this yourself or have it done by someone? If you did the oil change yourself, what are the pitfalls involved?

 

It is pretty easy to do yourself. Only 2 bolts on each (one to drain, one to fill). You will need to have a torque wrench that goes up to 60 ft. lbs (the highest torque for anything I have seen yet is the wheel lugs, which are 80 ft.lbs, but I havent read the manual cover to cover.) The bolts on the MT should be torqued to 23-28 ft-lbs and the bolts on the diff 55-61 ft-lbs.

You will also need a hex socket for your torque wrench that will fit the bolts (they are all the same size, 10mm, I think). You will also need a hand pump of some sort to pump the oil up. I picked up a pump from a local auto parts store that resembles a hand soap pump, with a long hose on the end. You might also want to get two drain pans (or three is you are going to chagne the oil at the same time, which I did) so you can drain everything at the same time. I only had one, and so the whole job took a lot longer than it needed too. I had to special order the gaskets for the bolts from the nissan dealership, since I couldnt find any proper ones elsewhere, and the didnt stock them.

I have some rhino ramps that are too steep to go under the front wheels, so I backed onto them, to lift the rear. I bought a cheapo floor jack, and it wouldn't go up high enough, so I used the scissor jack that comes witht he car, and some jackstands to lift the car up level. Draing the tranny is a bit easier, since the drain plug points straight down, but the diff drain plug points towards the back, so it is a bit harder to place your drain pan properly. I removed the drain plug first, then the fill plug, hoping that the oil would drain slowly at first, but I dont think it made much difference. The drain plug on the diff had a lot of metal shavings stuck to the magnet, so you should wipe that clean. After it is empty, use the pump to fill it up until the oil starts to leak out the drain hole (which is why you want the car level).

I think that is about it. I am not an expert, but this is how I did it. hope it helps.

 

I recently paid a dealer to install Redline MT-90 in the tranny and Redline 75W90 gear oil in the differential. There hasn't been a dramatic change, but the tranny is somewhat less notchy. Cold shifting is still troublesome into 2nd gear. Fuel economy improved a bit.
I can't really offer objective advice about which products to use. I'm sure they're all good. Just make sure you put a GL-4 oil in the tranny, and a GL-5 oil in the differential. Using a GL-5 in the tranny could corrode your synchros.
Mika

 

Call Redline and the support guy there advised below:

Transmission: a equal mix of MTL (70W80) with MT-90 (75W90)

Differential: 75W90 Gear Oil

 

Thanks to all.


To mwaller:
What did it cost you in the end? materials and labor



To zPilott:
Given that the process is what I thought it would be to change the oil, jack-stand the car up, buy a siphon pump: A lot of work but if you're like me, then at least you'll know the job was done right, and not half-assed by a dealer tech. who could care less about your car.



To Chimlam:
Just a fast reply before I go and double check Redline's web site again but:
Wouldn't that be mixing GL-4 and GL-5 for the transmission?

 

Total cost was about $145 -- $65 for 6 quarts of oil (4x MT-90; 2x 75W90) & hand pump. $80 for labor at a nissan dealer (1 hour shop time). Clearly, I would have saved a lot if I had done it myself. However, this way I have a printed record of what was done to my car.
Mika

 

I am pretty sure that MTL and MT-90 are both GL-4. Also, I paid about $8 a quart for the redline products($48), and $3 for the hand pump. True, I dont have a printed record from a dealer, but I do keep my receipts and note mileage and notes with them.

 

Please explain what hand pump is?

Thanks,

 

The hand pump is one of those plunger style bottle top pumps (like the ones on hand lotion bottles and the like). It's used to get the oil from the container into the tranny or diff. Unlike your typical engine oil change, there's no room to upend the bottle and empty its contents into the tranny or diff. You have to pump it in using a tube and pump. Hand pumps are cheap and disposable.
Mika

 

Yes, Chinlam is correct, I went onto Red Line and both the MTL and MT-90 are GL-4 rated.

 

Folks:

What is the refill capacities both Trans and Differential. Our manual only tells the type GL-4 and GL-5 for these but not the quantity.

If I buy the Redline products, would it be enough at 2 quarts GL-5 and 1 quart MTL and 1 quart MT90 @ GL-4?

 

You need 3 1/2 quarts for the transmission, and about 2 1/2 quarts for the rear differential.

I had the Lightweight ShockProof, but after checking with RedLine, they recommend mix of MTL and MT-90 since it's GL-4 oil. Lightweight SHockProof is NOT rated. So, I will be draining out my ShockProof and refill with MTL/MT-90 mixature.

I will keep my Lightweight ShockProof for rear differential though.. I don't think it will have problem with the unrated oil..

 

To zPilott:

What are the gaskets you referred to in your email reply?

I haven't purchased one of those Pirate copies of the CD manual on eBay yet.

When changing out gear or trans lube over the years I don't recall seeing or needing any gaskets on any of my cars/trucks.

Thanks.

 

I believe it's more like 1 1/2 quarts for the differential, not 2 1/2. I bought 2 quarts and had some left over. The gaskets are probably the drain/fill plug gaskets. Some of these are actually metal washer-like things... they probably do not need to be replaced on a brand new car. Inspect to be sure.
Mika

 

It is less than two quarts for the diff, less than 4 for the tranny. The gaskets look like aluminum washers. They are not crush gaskets like the oil drain plug, so you would probably be okay not changing them, but if you can get your hands on them, you might as well, since the cost is negligable.

 

ok, got confused since it's been awhile...thanks for the correction!

 

So we're all agreed:

2 quarts MTL & 2 quarts MT90 GL-4 for the transmission [mixed together before filling];

2 quarts 75w-90 GL-5 for the differential;

2 or 4 rings [gaskets] for the drain and fill plugs.




The ring gaskets are like the ones that fit my Mazda Protege's oil pan drain plug, more or less.

Also, after I changed the crush ring on the Z's oil pan drain plug, subsequently the same crush ring was on my wife's Quest. That got replaced as well. I never noticed it there for the 2+ years I've had the van. Interesting nobody ever told me this was there on the van but the very first time I went into the dealer for the Z's dinky little filters they all knew to tell me about these crush rings. [I'm using the larger filter from the 00 Quest/98 Maxima, by the way.]