EM-EFER

iTrader: (6)

That is for FI ... Its a built motor but you may be able to specify the compression ratio... I would call them and see what compression ratio's they have to offer... But its a REALLY good deal. Z1 is well known for their quality in aftermarket.

jcarp

The motor itself is 6000 and they will charge you another 2500 until they get your motor back and then they will return it. if you go this route i would pull your motor and send it to them and then let them send the new one so you dont have to pay anymore.

shezzzhot

iTrader: (5)

Talk to Todd: https://my350z.com/forum/forced-induction/177195-pleased-to-announce-built-z-motors.html

MrKaira

iTrader: (87)

yeah, i saw that part after i posted that message. it didnt make it clear in that particular engine that was the case, but it did on another one. oh well, too much for me, i liked the 3500 deal lol

MrKaira

iTrader: (87)

Thanks for that, i sent him a pm, hopefully he'll be able to answer a few questions

jcarp

I'd just save the money and do high quality parts. you could save money and just install a short block but then you have to switch over the heads and that a bitc&. I would just save the money and get a put together long block that you just have to bold in and put the pulleys on etc. i'm looking at doing that with the 9:1 aires instead of wesco and prob eagle rods. just look at your budget and where you want to be horsepower wise. if your not gonna shoot for 600 then you dont have to go all out.

MrKaira

iTrader: (87)

I just spoke with the shop that has my car.

Nissan was right, there is zero compression in my engine, but its not from the "intake" (otherwise known as a plenum spacer). The valves are bent. He said no performance part I put on there could have caused it to do that, but rather too many high revs and they bent.

Now, i do drive agressively when it is just me on the road, i like to floor it and go fast, yeah, its a Z, thats what it does... i have a 5AT though, and I always shift at 6000 rpms... there was only one time I accidentally let it go above that when i first got the car a year ago, and that was the only time.

The only other time i could think of when major damage was done was when i had a hole in my radiator hose, and there was very little coolant, if any, in the system for a couple miles while I tried to find a place to pull over.

Could that have done it?

So far, it doesnt look like nissan was at fault, they were just being giant douches to try and pin it all on me.

Price quote from the new shop was 5400 btw. i am going to see how much it will be if i order just a plain vq from Z1.

I'll let you all know if there are any more updates, but your input would be nice. Thanks everyone.

jcarp

is that 5400 to just replace the valves?

MrKaira

iTrader: (87)

no, thats entire engine replacement

thats what my mechanic said would ultimately be the best way to go, because just replacing the valves would get very costly... not like it already isnt.

jcarp

how much would he charge you to pull that one out and drop a built one in.

MrKaira

iTrader: (87)

same amount, but a built motor + FI would be about 7k more than i have available... now if this happenned in august it might be a different story.

mikewagon

too many high revs?? hmm, what about all those that road race and autocross and we keep the revs in the powerband for lengths of time. keep investigating this one. maybe dont get the f.i. now, but build the engine anyway to get ready for it. keep us updated on how it goes.

sq40

iTrader: (4)

Do you run any kind of Octane Booster or Race Fuel?

MrKaira

iTrader: (87)

What I believe he meant was above the redline... like I saw a post either on this board or another where a guy rev'ed the car up to 9k rpm's and the motor actually blew up... i think my mechanic was talking more about a situation like that.

and no, i don't run any kind of octance booster or any kind of fuel additive... i run 93 premium all the time, mobil 1 oil... i take care of my car i don't understand how it can just die

well anyway I orded a new engine from Z1... just one out of a wrecked Z, not a built motor, so after that and install, plus the credit for sending in my core, everything should come out to be around 4k... which is much better than the 9000 that nissan quoted me...

if anyone has any thoughts or experience (bent valves and causes)... that would be great... let me know

Hydrazine

iTrader: (53)

I thought your girl friend was driving at the time of failure?

Not that latent damage could have occured when you were driving, but unless you drive it very high, very often it seems unusual.

I can't tell you how many times I've run my engine to redline while at the track or on the street.

How exactly do you drive your Z?

MrKaira

iTrader: (87)

she was driving, but she was going 40 mph on a very busy street in chesterfield (right outside of richmond, va) and she was in regular automatic mode, not sport... so unless the transmission failed (which it didnt because she would have noticed) and i know how she drives with my car (very respectfully and conservatively) then I highly doubt she would have been able to do anything to the engine in that situation.

I drive my Z aggresively most of the time, pedal to the floor, in both auto and sport mode... but i always make sure to shift right before it reaches 6k rpms... i do not drive fast, usually only 10 mph over the speed limit... i can count on one hand the amount of times i have been over 100 in the car. There are many people that are much harder on their cars than I am on mine. I have never even taken it to the track, even though i really want to.

rxtrom

iTrader: (1)

I dont understand it. If it is not the problem with the bolt in the motor from aftermarket parts, then why isn't nissan replacing the motor? I would not spend a dime on a car to fix it under waranty. Find a new nissan shop.

sq40

iTrader: (4)

+1 good buddy.

Hydrazine

iTrader: (53)

Yes. That is absolutely true.

MrKaira

iTrader: (87)

They did determine that a bolt from the plenum spacer or the intake is impossible, and that is not the cause. The independent shop, which is owned and run by a trusted friend, even said they could not find a cause, with the exception of the car being revved to over redline for excessive amounts of time, and the internals in the engine failing because of that. I know that I did not do it, and I know that my fiance did not do it for more than one reason, but because of the place she was driving, on a busy street in richmond, which she was in automatic mode, not sport mode.

So if the shop is saying there simply is not an explenation other than that, how is a Nissan shop going to respond when they open the hood, and see my samco hoses, pithon locks, grounding kit, intake, headers, and maybe notice my performance pulley, they are going to think that I do drive rediculously, and that I personally broke the motor, having something to do with my mods. With all that working against me, I do not believe I have a chance for getting Nissan to replace my motor or fix it. (all this is not what our friend said, this is what i have gathered from my experience with nissan and with what he found in the motor).

I've ordered the motor, and its on its way. I should have the car back in about 2 weeks (total 7 weeks without my car). After everything it should be less than 4k total for engine and labor.

So folks, looks like I am submitting to nissan since I have no evidence to support that it was not me or something I did that broke the engine.

nissan 1
me 0

hey, at least i will have my car back soon! its already been 5 weeks and its gettin to me, especially with the warmer weather now.