Bad clicking noise when take off and slow down
07-14-2006, 11:02 AM
#21
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Originally Posted by MRfire
I had mine done 2 months ago and now it's back...same as before. The TSB does crap...don't even waste your time.
Not true. Sometimes they just tighten things up (or whatever they do with it) and other ones they replace parts. Bring it back in. Most everyone who has had it fixed hasnt had to go back.
07-14-2006, 09:47 PM
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i'm glad i foud this. i was having the same problem. mine sounds like my hatch isn't closed all the way and the latch is catching, but it's coming from under the car only at slow speeds, usually when going over a bump.
07-17-2006, 05:26 AM
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Careful... I just had this repaired on my '05 Roadster. It was covered under warranty, but I lost the vehicle for 2 1/2 weeks because the dealer damaged both rear wheels when taking them off the vehicle. It was incredible -- looked like the dealer tried to remove the lugnuts with a chisel. Both wheels had gouges all around the lug openings. Then, they refused to replace the wheels, saying they would repair them instead. When I went to pick up the 'repaired' wheels, I found different damage on them, so they had to be re-repaired. Un-frickin-believable.
Just inspect the wheels after the repair is done to make sure they didn't chisel them off.
Just inspect the wheels after the repair is done to make sure they didn't chisel them off.
07-17-2006, 05:43 AM
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Another thing to look out for, I had the same clicking problem with my 03', they relube the rear axel and no more clicky. But after three months, my car has gotten looser for some reason. The car sways left to right when going over bumps, one time it felt like I had a flat and I was going about 65mph. I know a Z owner in New Zealand who has the same problem and she suspects it to be the half shaft. I'm not sure what a half shaft is, but I think she's talking about the rear axel. She said when it is on the lift, the half shaft is loose, you have to tug at it pretty hard, but it should be tight and not movable. I also had my recal done on the fuel line, not sure what they did to fix it, but they did something wrong.
07-17-2006, 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by dave079
Not true. Sometimes they just tighten things up (or whatever they do with it) and other ones they replace parts. Bring it back in. Most everyone who has had it fixed hasnt had to go back.
07-17-2006, 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by MRfire
They did replace parts in mine and took forever. Do a search and you'll see many others have had it come back...
07-17-2006, 11:31 AM
#29
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Originally Posted by MRfire
They did replace parts in mine and took forever. Do a search and you'll see many others have had it come back...
07-17-2006, 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by 1FlyZ
Thanks guys for your help. Had to print off that bulletin and hand it to them, for them to realize thats what it was. they had to order the grease??? and the flange's and said they will call when they get in.
I dont know if it would have gotten fixed if you guys didnt help me with where the noise was coming from
I dont know if it would have gotten fixed if you guys didnt help me with where the noise was coming from
All it should take is either just removing the wheel to remove the center lug and packing some 77 grease in there OR if more intensive, removing either the driver's or pass or both axels even (depends where the noise is coming from) and then greasing there as well. The only replacement parts assuming everything else is fine is the flange bolts. It shouldn't be a crazy air tooling adventure.
Last edited by Z4Zum; 07-17-2006 at 02:01 PM.
07-17-2006, 05:04 PM
#31
Originally Posted by Z4Zum
WOW....now I don't feel so bad about my dealership service......I used to think they were total numb nuts but when the customer starts handing them the TSB when they should've looked it up in the first place....Yikes! It's so minor they didn't charge me.....Sure you want them working on your Z???
All it should take is either just removing the wheel to remove the center lug and packing some 77 grease in there OR if more intensive, removing either the driver's or pass or both axels even (depends where the noise is coming from) and then greasing there as well. The only replacement parts assuming everything else is fine is the flange bolts. It shouldn't be a crazy air tooling adventure.
All it should take is either just removing the wheel to remove the center lug and packing some 77 grease in there OR if more intensive, removing either the driver's or pass or both axels even (depends where the noise is coming from) and then greasing there as well. The only replacement parts assuming everything else is fine is the flange bolts. It shouldn't be a crazy air tooling adventure.
07-17-2006, 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by wesismyhero
i'm glad i foud this. i was having the same problem. mine sounds like my hatch isn't closed all the way and the latch is catching, but it's coming from under the car only at slow speeds, usually when going over a bump.
07-18-2006, 03:43 AM
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Mine has been clicking for 30k miles (I'm at 70k on the 03 car) and I've been too lazy to take it into the dealer... I just deal with it honestly. I don't think there is any other danger to the axles and/or drivetrain if you don't get this done. It's just an annoyance forsome...
If it is only $150-170 as stated though, I may finally get this fixed. Who knows though if it is just going to come back?
If it is only $150-170 as stated though, I may finally get this fixed. Who knows though if it is just going to come back?
07-19-2006, 10:46 AM
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i just spoke with a nissan mechanic who said that all they have to do is tighten a bolt. is that right or are they trying to just do as little as possible to shut me up?
07-19-2006, 11:28 AM
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i have this problem too my car is up to 40k miles so no more warentee so does that mean they will charge me for this? if i dont do it will it cause any other damage? sorry i am kinda unclear on this issue..