glowz825

I did a search and found trunk rattle problems kinda like mine with a metallic ticking coming from the trunk and let me tell you I have had every removable piece out and reinstalled it ,anyway I found where its coming from.When you remove the rear plastic trunk panel and expose the latch mechanism there is a gold color brace that holds the actual latch and the unlatcher,the is 6 bolts that hold this on to the body of the car. What i did was loosen the 6 bolt then the rattle was gone then when I tightend them back the rattle would come back. Now the bolts were left snug not tight after I figured this out and it does not rattle,however it will rattle if the car has been sitting for a couple of days so what I dio is remove the panel and lightly beat the latch mechanism.Is it possible for the bolts to tigten themselves through heating and cooling? Does anybody else have this particular problem any help would be greatly appriciated...oh BTW I have an 06 entusiast Z

Gryphin

iTrader: (4)

take pictures of this for me, because its driving me nuts, i thought it was the motor in the hatch for the longest... but yea if you can take a picture maybe there is a rubber washer or something i can put on the latch to help with the rattle...

glowz825

Ill post some pics tomorrow night but try to loosen those 6 bolts and I bet that sound goes away

glowz825

I found the rattle.It was coming from the latch hook so i removed it then put a shim between the latch hook and the trunk no more rattle

bjr

Thanks for the tip. I've had a long fight tracking down a rattle/ticking noise from that area too. I've suspected a wiring harness on the back wall but that wasn't it. Now I believe it may be the spring loaded bumpers that contact the car when the trunk closes. I put a very thin rubber pad in there to see if it goes away today but there was some other noise going on this morning too. I'll have to check into the latch area, maybe that's my problem as well.
It seems to go away after I close the trunk and comes back after the car has sat in the hot parking lot all day and I turn the stereo up real loud on the way home then turn it off when I get close to home - then the noise is back. So I don't think it was the wiring harness anchor that I removed

glowz825

Thats exactly what mine did.It took me 3 months to find it I bet yours is the latch hook too.If you can find a trunk monkey to sit back there while you drive. My girlfriend willingly jumped in the back,thats the only way I was able to narrow it down to specific area at the time

Gryphin

iTrader: (4)

pictures?

dougpaw57

Please post some pictures, I think I've got the same rattle. Seems to go away if the interior of the car gets vey hot (I live in the Mojave desert).

bjr

I must try what you have done. Last night on the way home from work it starts rattling like crazy a couple of miles from home. I pulled over and opened and closed the trunk. It got dead silent. Stayed quiet until I got home. I forgot something and had to go back out. It started rattling so I opened and closed the trunk when I got where I was going. I think driving up the driveway curb at a 45degree angle twists the back end. It stayed quiet until I got back home, only just starting a hint of it since town roads are bumpy.
Left for work this morning and as soon as I got over the driveway curb I opened and closed the trunk and it was quiet 30 miles later when I got to work. I would have still been looking on the back wall and around the trunk floor for a few more weeks until I got to the latch. I had suspected the spring bumpers but when that wasn't it I was ready to go back behind the panels to the brackets and harnesses.
I'll let you know if I fix mine.

steve5

iTrader: (1)

can you take a pic of the shim?

bjr

Well, for what it's worth here is a picture of the latch. I broke out the service manual and saw that the latch mechanism is adjustable. Since the whole gray panel is mounted on the back wall at an angle, by shimming it all you are doing is effectively adjusting the latch up and forward. Seems unnecessary to add shims when there is plenty of adjustment there. I can tell from the picture and maybe you can too that my latch was crooked. Look at the gap between the bottom of the latch body and the gray plate below it. It is not an optical illusion from the camera that the gap is larger on the right than the left. What I did is loosened ONLY the right gray nut next to the latch and gently tapped the latch downward with a rubber mallet until the gap was even along the bottom and retightened the nut. The gap between my trunk lid and the bumper decreased by about 0.1" and is within specs. from the manual. My striker plate hook was showing signs of scratches so something was a little off.
I can't guarantee this solved it but it stayed quiet this morning. I should know by the end of the week if I fixed it.

edit: maybe I don't have memeber rights to post the pic directly. Looks like I've done a link in past posts. Here you go...
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...02_33_full.jpg

bjr

The scratches there on the bottom part of the hook on the left side were on the side of the latch that was too high. While I was in there I also gave the latch mechanism a very small blast of lithium grease to keep things moving like new

bjr

Sorry if you can't see the pictures. They were up then when I go back to look at them they disapper. Never had trouble posting pics before
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...02_33_full.jpg

gt3

iTrader: (10)

Hi, I am having trouble seeing the pics (even with your edited links). Can you repost them or make attch those images here. Thanks!

bjr

I may need to contact a moderator. I searched back through all of my old posts and none of my pic links are working! The cardomain.com links are still valid as I can paste them into explorer and they come up - just won't work directly from my350.zom
Not sure what is wrong.

bjr

Go to my link above and RIGHT CLICK on it, choose copy shortcut. Then go to the top of Internet explorer and paste it in the address line at top and click GO. See what you get.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...02_34_full.jpg

Here is the other link I tried if that copy paste thing works for you...

What?? I just came back here to do this and now they are showing up inside our post here.
I just don't know. Sorry for the trouble.

I just noticed another trick at home. Click on the link in this post. You'll get the standard web page that says it can't find it. Click on REFRESH. The picture comes right up. Maybe something messed up on the cardomain site?

glowz825

I actually made a gasket to go betwen the latch assembly and the body of the car but it did not work.The purpose of the shim on the latch- at least on my car was to keep the mutilpe layers of sheet metal (which by the way are spot welded for s***) from tapping together simply by putting pressure on an area under the hatch latch that does not have any causing the gap that causes the rattle to dissapear--And my rattle...is still gone..Yessssssssss!!!!!! I can enjoy my car again

gt3

iTrader: (10)

The refresh trick worked. Thanks!

bjr

Oh. Different problem. That explains the different solution I suspect that my trunk lid was riding around about 0.1" too high and had just enough room to be bouncing up and down a little. Now the latch pulls it down tight against all of the weather stripping -quiet
Quiet yesterday morning, quiet last night, quiet this morning. I think I see a trend for the near future! Thanks again for pointing this out.
BTW, the service manual stated to check these areas for trunk rattles-
-Customer has something loose in the trunk or jack equimpent (duh!)
-Spring bumpers
-Latch out of adjustment (they need to add poorly welded latch )
-Something about cross braces (maybe they meant the strut bar and panels on it?)

glowz825

Yeah im sure glad its not my strut brace Can you buy that sevice manual anywhere?