Ride Problem? Call..............
Has nissan fixed the porpoising (bouncing) problem for the 2004 coupes?
Question, has the porpoising/ bouncing problem been solved for the 2004 coupe models and the roadsters? did they change the shocks on these newer cars?
Is the feathering still a problem on the 2004 models
I am thinking of buying a Z and feel a little disapointed by thee problems.
2000 BMW 323 auto with sports package
Question, has the porpoising/ bouncing problem been solved for the 2004 coupe models and the roadsters? did they change the shocks on these newer cars?
Is the feathering still a problem on the 2004 models
I am thinking of buying a Z and feel a little disapointed by thee problems.
2000 BMW 323 auto with sports package
Originally posted by eruizela
Has nissan fixed the porpoising (bouncing) problem for the 2004 coupes?
Question, has the porpoising/ bouncing problem been solved for the 2004 coupe models and the roadsters? did they change the shocks on these newer cars?
Is the feathering still a problem on the 2004 models
I am thinking of buying a Z and feel a little disapointed by thee problems.
2000 BMW 323 auto with sports package
Has nissan fixed the porpoising (bouncing) problem for the 2004 coupes?
Question, has the porpoising/ bouncing problem been solved for the 2004 coupe models and the roadsters? did they change the shocks on these newer cars?
Is the feathering still a problem on the 2004 models
I am thinking of buying a Z and feel a little disapointed by thee problems.
2000 BMW 323 auto with sports package
Originally posted by Boomer
I understand coming from a truck, you don't see what some of us do. You're right, the Z is set up like a race car, IMO. Great for a weekend track or strip car, not so great for a daily driver. I owned a 1972 240Z that worked fine as a daily driver, but the 350Z is way stiffer and harsh riding, as some staffers at R&T have noted in their longterm test car. Some like it, I don't, and neither do some others.
I plan to change to Koni struts with less compression and more rebound control when they come out in January or sooner. The ride will improve and won't be sloppy, but it will not be harsh, just better controlled with a very firm ride. You don't need a ride like a slammed Civic to be a sports car, Porsche, BMW, Toyota have demonstrated that in their cars.
I understand coming from a truck, you don't see what some of us do. You're right, the Z is set up like a race car, IMO. Great for a weekend track or strip car, not so great for a daily driver. I owned a 1972 240Z that worked fine as a daily driver, but the 350Z is way stiffer and harsh riding, as some staffers at R&T have noted in their longterm test car. Some like it, I don't, and neither do some others.
I plan to change to Koni struts with less compression and more rebound control when they come out in January or sooner. The ride will improve and won't be sloppy, but it will not be harsh, just better controlled with a very firm ride. You don't need a ride like a slammed Civic to be a sports car, Porsche, BMW, Toyota have demonstrated that in their cars.
Rebound control is almost non-existent, so a change of struts has become mandatory. I don't believe Nissan will retrofit any new suspension parts for any 2003 cars. I will buy my own, because I love the car, but anyone who can't tolerate the ride needs to find out before you drive the car, not after. If a dealer refuses to let you test drive the car, walk away or you may be unhappy with the ride and have my predicament. Why Nissan chose the settings they did is a mystery to me. Not every buyer is a racer and calling my model a Touring is not even close to the truth and is just plain stupid.
BTW, I have had an artificial hip(s) since 1970 and none of the other sports(y) cars I have owned since have been this uncomfortable for me. As the European article points out, you don't need a rock hard suspension to be a sports car.
Boomer-my advice, use it or lose it, I really don't care.
SO what set up is recommended? New Struts only or also new springs? what brands are recommended for a decent less bounce and less tire feathering?
What about the transmissions, are they also going bad in the 6 speeds?
What about the transmissions, are they also going bad in the 6 speeds?
Originally posted by eruizela
SO what set up is recommended? New Struts only or also new springs? what brands are recommended for a decent less bounce and less tire feathering?
What about the transmissions, are they also going bad in the 6 speeds?
SO what set up is recommended? New Struts only or also new springs? what brands are recommended for a decent less bounce and less tire feathering?
What about the transmissions, are they also going bad in the 6 speeds?
The 6MTs are being replaced in each 2003 car as needed so far and Nissan is just doing it w/o fanfare or explanations.
It is a shame the euro market is getting the suspension we should have gotten all along. Heck it has stiffer springs but the shock is different. That is our problem the shocks. Curious to see what is really different on the euro Z's. Progressive springs? I still wonder if they are getting the NISMO S-Tune........
I've owned a Porsche 911 Carrera and Acura NSX, both rode like a sports car, that's what I expected from the 350Z. What's this bounce you guys are talking about? The 350Z rides and handles a whole lot like the NSX, that's one of the reasons I bought it.
Originally posted by Pit Bull
I've owned a Porsche 911 Carrera and Acura NSX, both rode like a sports car, that's what I expected from the 350Z. What's this bounce you guys are talking about? The 350Z rides and handles a whole lot like the NSX, that's one of the reasons I bought it.
I've owned a Porsche 911 Carrera and Acura NSX, both rode like a sports car, that's what I expected from the 350Z. What's this bounce you guys are talking about? The 350Z rides and handles a whole lot like the NSX, that's one of the reasons I bought it.
I have never driven an NSX but I have never read anything bad about its ride quality. If you don't mind the Z's ride quality then you must be the profile driver that Nissan had in mind when it put together its suspension. Unfortunately, some of us romanced ourselves into the "pre-order" madness and never got to truly test drive the car. When mine arrived in Aug. 02 I couldn't wait to get it off the lot and even then it took several months before we realized that the ride really sucked.
Originally posted by offlogic
I guess everyone has their own take on what ride quality is all about
I guess everyone has their own take on what ride quality is all about
Originally posted by offlogic
I guess everyone has their own take on what ride quality is all about. Speaking for myself (and wife) riding on country roads and even highway in our "Touring Z" can be an extremely tiresome experience. Although we have other cars for long distance traveling I had thought of taking the Z on 150 mile jaunts for long weekends, but I really don't know if we'll be able to walk when we get to our destinations.
I have never driven an NSX but I have never read anything bad about its ride quality. If you don't mind the Z's ride quality then you must be the profile driver that Nissan had in mind when it put together its suspension. Unfortunately, some of us romanced ourselves into the "pre-order" madness and never got to truly test drive the car. When mine arrived in Aug. 02 I couldn't wait to get it off the lot and even then it took several months before we realized that the ride really sucked.
I guess everyone has their own take on what ride quality is all about. Speaking for myself (and wife) riding on country roads and even highway in our "Touring Z" can be an extremely tiresome experience. Although we have other cars for long distance traveling I had thought of taking the Z on 150 mile jaunts for long weekends, but I really don't know if we'll be able to walk when we get to our destinations.
I have never driven an NSX but I have never read anything bad about its ride quality. If you don't mind the Z's ride quality then you must be the profile driver that Nissan had in mind when it put together its suspension. Unfortunately, some of us romanced ourselves into the "pre-order" madness and never got to truly test drive the car. When mine arrived in Aug. 02 I couldn't wait to get it off the lot and even then it took several months before we realized that the ride really sucked.
We will see if thats true on the roads I drive on here. My "preorder madness" is long gone and this is the last try to improve the ride for me.
I just bought a new 350ZR in Miami and drove it over the weekend back to North Carolina. I had my wife with me, and a very limited amount of bagage (good reason for that with the ZR!). That totalled up to 1,075 miles of driving on everything from smooth blacktop to rough concrete, including a significant stretch of construction zones.
I was very impressed with the ride, both my wife and I had no problems and she has some back problems. The ride was much better than the Coupe I had. I found the ride controlled, not at all harsh, and very comfortable. Sure, a Lexus LS430 would have been smoother but I'm very impressed with the ride of this, which is really a sports car.
I've also had a chance to hit some hard turns with it and don't feel I've lost anything. The car tracks perfectly, is well balanced in corners, and seems to respond well when pushed. Of course, your opinions are yours and mine mine but I will recommend the 350ZR for most any riding.
John
I was very impressed with the ride, both my wife and I had no problems and she has some back problems. The ride was much better than the Coupe I had. I found the ride controlled, not at all harsh, and very comfortable. Sure, a Lexus LS430 would have been smoother but I'm very impressed with the ride of this, which is really a sports car.
I've also had a chance to hit some hard turns with it and don't feel I've lost anything. The car tracks perfectly, is well balanced in corners, and seems to respond well when pushed. Of course, your opinions are yours and mine mine but I will recommend the 350ZR for most any riding.
John
Originally posted by Boomer
That is exactly what happened to me except I thought changing to different tires, instead of the awful 040s, would solve the problem. It helped, but not enough to make the ride OK. I am banking on the Konis to be the final solution. If they don't get rid of the bounce, I will trade or sell the car. I expect them to work because Gordon at Koni rode in their test Z and said they did get rid of the bounce.
We will see if thats true on the roads I drive on here. My "preorder madness" is long gone and this is the last try to improve the ride for me.
That is exactly what happened to me except I thought changing to different tires, instead of the awful 040s, would solve the problem. It helped, but not enough to make the ride OK. I am banking on the Konis to be the final solution. If they don't get rid of the bounce, I will trade or sell the car. I expect them to work because Gordon at Koni rode in their test Z and said they did get rid of the bounce.
We will see if thats true on the roads I drive on here. My "preorder madness" is long gone and this is the last try to improve the ride for me.
Originally posted by eruizela
Has nissan fixed the porpoising (bouncing) problem for the 2004 coupes?
Question, has the porpoising/ bouncing problem been solved for the 2004 coupe models and the roadsters? did they change the shocks on these newer cars?
Is the feathering still a problem on the 2004 models
I am thinking of buying a Z and feel a little disapointed by thee problems.
2000 BMW 323 auto with sports package
Has nissan fixed the porpoising (bouncing) problem for the 2004 coupes?
Question, has the porpoising/ bouncing problem been solved for the 2004 coupe models and the roadsters? did they change the shocks on these newer cars?
Is the feathering still a problem on the 2004 models
I am thinking of buying a Z and feel a little disapointed by thee problems.
2000 BMW 323 auto with sports package
As for bouncing, I have not perceived that characteristic in my 2004 Z. However, before I bought my car (7 weeks ago), one of my coworkers told me he saw a Z along the same stretch of freeway that both of us commute on, and he noticed that the car looked like it was bouncing all over the place. He told me the bouncing at the rear looked similar to that of the rear axle of an empty 18-wheeler trailer. That observations was about 6 months ago, so it was definitely a 2003 model.
I drive that same stretch of freeway (HWY 50, near Sacramento/Folsom), which is concrete pavement with slight undulations, and I don't get that resonating bounce that a lot of you folks speak of. My air pressure is checked often, and it's at 35psi. I know most concrete pavements exhibit undulations from wear and strain from loaded trucks. I can feel the undulations in the Z, but I can't really call it an unliveable bounce. I do, however, know exactly what some of you folks are talking about because my motorcycle has that head jarring nauseating bounce on certain stretches of I-280 in Silicon Valley. While I'm bouncing around like a clown on meth, everyone else in a cage looks like they're having a nice leasurely drive.
I've found that it all boils down to a combination of wheel base, weight, spring rates (also influenced by tire pressure), and damping rates, that has a fundamental frequency that equals that of the undulation frequency. A matching frequency would amplify the effects of the undulations, thereby causing a bounce that may even cause your wheel to lose contact with the pavement. You can change the fundamental frequency by changing any of those parameters. That's probably why some folks have been able to add weight to the rear end or change spring rates to eliminate the bounce. However, that change may take care of a particular stretch of road, but if you drive on another strech of road where the undulations are spaced out differently (slab segments are different lengths) or travel speed is different, that bounce might resurface.
If you speed up or slow down 15-20mph from the speed that causes the most severe bounce, it should change the frequency of the undulations enough to reduce the bounce to a more tolerable level.
All-in-all, I wouldn't expect a suspension specialist to design a particular suspension for repeated undulations of the pavement. Concrete pavement designs differ from state to state, and country to country. It is just very unfortunate that the combination of weight distribution, spring rate, and % damping (shocks) matches that of concrete pavement undulations/warpage in your neck of the woods. Those Nissan engineers tried to optimize weight distribution and suspension characteristics while staying within a set budget, but unfortunately they fails in real-world test on old concrete pavements in certain parts of the world.
Now, I've only read about 30-40 posts on this subject, but are any of you finding problems with bounce on asphalt pavement (AC)? I suspect that you shouldn't at all because AC does not exhibit cylical undulations. If nobody has problems on AC, then it's mostly a road issue...poor ride quality from poor construction and poor design of rigid/cancrete pavement.
Do any of you who have the bounce problem live near Sacramento? If so, we can do a comparison test. Just PM me.
don
Originally posted by dnguyent
I have a 2004 Enthusiast coupe 6MT. I've been following the tire feathering and bouncing threads, and haven't found my car to exhibit any of those problems (yet). I only have 2000 miles, so the tire feathering problems may not arise for another 8000 miles or so. Sadly to say, I'm expecting it to surface, and have been monitoring my tires every couple weeks. If I'm one of the lucky, feathering may never surface, but it helps me deal with the situaltion if I expect it to happen.
As for bouncing, I have not perceived that characteristic in my 2004 Z. However, before I bought my car (7 weeks ago), one of my coworkers told me he saw a Z along the same stretch of freeway that both of us commute on, and he noticed that the car looked like it was bouncing all over the place. He told me the bouncing at the rear looked similar to that of the rear axle of an empty 18-wheeler trailer. That observations was about 6 months ago, so it was definitely a 2003 model.
I drive that same stretch of freeway (HWY 50, near Sacramento/Folsom), which is concrete pavement with slight undulations, and I don't get that resonating bounce that a lot of you folks speak of. My air pressure is checked often, and it's at 35psi. I know most concrete pavements exhibit undulations from wear and strain from loaded trucks. I can feel the undulations in the Z, but I can't really call it an unliveable bounce. I do, however, know exactly what some of you folks are talking about because my motorcycle has that head jarring nauseating bounce on certain stretches of I-280 in Silicon Valley. While I'm bouncing around like a clown on meth, everyone else in a cage looks like they're having a nice leasurely drive.
I've found that it all boils down to a combination of wheel base, weight, spring rates (also influenced by tire pressure), and damping rates, that has a fundamental frequency that equals that of the undulation frequency. A matching frequency would amplify the effects of the undulations, thereby causing a bounce that may even cause your wheel to lose contact with the pavement. You can change the fundamental frequency by changing any of those parameters. That's probably why some folks have been able to add weight to the rear end or change spring rates to eliminate the bounce. However, that change may take care of a particular stretch of road, but if you drive on another strech of road where the undulations are spaced out differently (slab segments are different lengths) or travel speed is different, that bounce might resurface.
If you speed up or slow down 15-20mph from the speed that causes the most severe bounce, it should change the frequency of the undulations enough to reduce the bounce to a more tolerable level.
All-in-all, I wouldn't expect a suspension specialist to design a particular suspension for repeated undulations of the pavement. Concrete pavement designs differ from state to state, and country to country. It is just very unfortunate that the combination of weight distribution, spring rate, and % damping (shocks) matches that of concrete pavement undulations/warpage in your neck of the woods. Those Nissan engineers tried to optimize weight distribution and suspension characteristics while staying within a set budget, but unfortunately they fails in real-world test on old concrete pavements in certain parts of the world.
Now, I've only read about 30-40 posts on this subject, but are any of you finding problems with bounce on asphalt pavement (AC)? I suspect that you shouldn't at all because AC does not exhibit cylical undulations. If nobody has problems on AC, then it's mostly a road issue...poor ride quality from poor construction and poor design of rigid/cancrete pavement.
Do any of you who have the bounce problem live near Sacramento? If so, we can do a comparison test. Just PM me.
don
I have a 2004 Enthusiast coupe 6MT. I've been following the tire feathering and bouncing threads, and haven't found my car to exhibit any of those problems (yet). I only have 2000 miles, so the tire feathering problems may not arise for another 8000 miles or so. Sadly to say, I'm expecting it to surface, and have been monitoring my tires every couple weeks. If I'm one of the lucky, feathering may never surface, but it helps me deal with the situaltion if I expect it to happen.
As for bouncing, I have not perceived that characteristic in my 2004 Z. However, before I bought my car (7 weeks ago), one of my coworkers told me he saw a Z along the same stretch of freeway that both of us commute on, and he noticed that the car looked like it was bouncing all over the place. He told me the bouncing at the rear looked similar to that of the rear axle of an empty 18-wheeler trailer. That observations was about 6 months ago, so it was definitely a 2003 model.
I drive that same stretch of freeway (HWY 50, near Sacramento/Folsom), which is concrete pavement with slight undulations, and I don't get that resonating bounce that a lot of you folks speak of. My air pressure is checked often, and it's at 35psi. I know most concrete pavements exhibit undulations from wear and strain from loaded trucks. I can feel the undulations in the Z, but I can't really call it an unliveable bounce. I do, however, know exactly what some of you folks are talking about because my motorcycle has that head jarring nauseating bounce on certain stretches of I-280 in Silicon Valley. While I'm bouncing around like a clown on meth, everyone else in a cage looks like they're having a nice leasurely drive.
I've found that it all boils down to a combination of wheel base, weight, spring rates (also influenced by tire pressure), and damping rates, that has a fundamental frequency that equals that of the undulation frequency. A matching frequency would amplify the effects of the undulations, thereby causing a bounce that may even cause your wheel to lose contact with the pavement. You can change the fundamental frequency by changing any of those parameters. That's probably why some folks have been able to add weight to the rear end or change spring rates to eliminate the bounce. However, that change may take care of a particular stretch of road, but if you drive on another strech of road where the undulations are spaced out differently (slab segments are different lengths) or travel speed is different, that bounce might resurface.
If you speed up or slow down 15-20mph from the speed that causes the most severe bounce, it should change the frequency of the undulations enough to reduce the bounce to a more tolerable level.
All-in-all, I wouldn't expect a suspension specialist to design a particular suspension for repeated undulations of the pavement. Concrete pavement designs differ from state to state, and country to country. It is just very unfortunate that the combination of weight distribution, spring rate, and % damping (shocks) matches that of concrete pavement undulations/warpage in your neck of the woods. Those Nissan engineers tried to optimize weight distribution and suspension characteristics while staying within a set budget, but unfortunately they fails in real-world test on old concrete pavements in certain parts of the world.
Now, I've only read about 30-40 posts on this subject, but are any of you finding problems with bounce on asphalt pavement (AC)? I suspect that you shouldn't at all because AC does not exhibit cylical undulations. If nobody has problems on AC, then it's mostly a road issue...poor ride quality from poor construction and poor design of rigid/cancrete pavement.
Do any of you who have the bounce problem live near Sacramento? If so, we can do a comparison test. Just PM me.
don
Originally posted by offlogic
Well Boomer, you and I have been posting for all of this year plus, and I know for the most part we share the same concerns and reservations about the Z. The question now is, who is going first to see if the Konis' are the answer. My bet is on you. I know you will be brutally honest with all of us and let us know if it is truly THE ANSWER! Do you think they will be available by December?
Well Boomer, you and I have been posting for all of this year plus, and I know for the most part we share the same concerns and reservations about the Z. The question now is, who is going first to see if the Konis' are the answer. My bet is on you. I know you will be brutally honest with all of us and let us know if it is truly THE ANSWER! Do you think they will be available by December?
That would be nice. offlogic, will you buy or wait? Remember, I have special ortho problems you may lack and they may be perfect for you and others and not quite right for me. I am shooting craps here and hoping for a seven. Boomer
Originally posted by dnguyent
...You can change the fundamental frequency by changing any of those parameters. That's probably why some folks have been able to add weight to the rear end or change spring rates to eliminate the bounce. However, that change may take care of a particular stretch of road, but if you drive on another strech of road where the undulations are spaced out differently (slab segments are different lengths) or travel speed is different, that bounce might resurface...
...All-in-all, I wouldn't expect a suspension specialist to design a particular suspension for repeated undulations of the pavement...
...are any of you finding problems with bounce on asphalt pavement (AC)? I suspect that you shouldn't at all because AC does not exhibit cylical undulations. If nobody has problems on AC, then it's mostly a road issue...poor ride quality from poor construction and poor design of rigid/cancrete pavement.
...You can change the fundamental frequency by changing any of those parameters. That's probably why some folks have been able to add weight to the rear end or change spring rates to eliminate the bounce. However, that change may take care of a particular stretch of road, but if you drive on another strech of road where the undulations are spaced out differently (slab segments are different lengths) or travel speed is different, that bounce might resurface...
...All-in-all, I wouldn't expect a suspension specialist to design a particular suspension for repeated undulations of the pavement...
...are any of you finding problems with bounce on asphalt pavement (AC)? I suspect that you shouldn't at all because AC does not exhibit cylical undulations. If nobody has problems on AC, then it's mostly a road issue...poor ride quality from poor construction and poor design of rigid/cancrete pavement.
However, in the same way that I would not expect an engineer to design a suspension system that works well only on a certain stretch of concrete, I would also not expect an engineer to design a suspension system that only works well on asphalt. (I have driven on many freeways in LA, Orange County, San Diego, and Phoenix in this car. A few stretches are ok, some parts are barely tolerable, and the rest are absolutely dreadful. It’s not the same in other cars, even other cars with a sports suspension.) As with all other parts of the car, compromises must be made for the car to be drivable under a variety of conditions for a certain price. I don’t think Nissan found the best solution this time, much to the dismay of my internal organs. I’m all for a sports-car ride, but this is a sports-car ride plus more!
If I had to commute on the freeways every day, I don't think I would still own the car. Thankfully, I rarely need to use them.
Originally posted by dnguyent
I have a 2004 Enthusiast coupe 6MT. I've been following the tire feathering and bouncing threads, and haven't found my car to exhibit any of those problems (yet). I only have 2000 miles, so the tire feathering problems may not arise for another 8000 miles or so. Sadly to say, I'm expecting it to surface, and have been monitoring my tires every couple weeks. If I'm one of the lucky, feathering may never surface, but it helps me deal with the situaltion if I expect it to happen.
As for bouncing, I have not perceived that characteristic in my 2004 Z. However, before I bought my car (7 weeks ago), one of my coworkers told me he saw a Z along the same stretch of freeway that both of us commute on, and he noticed that the car looked like it was bouncing all over the place. He told me the bouncing at the rear looked similar to that of the rear axle of an empty 18-wheeler trailer. That observations was about 6 months ago, so it was definitely a 2003 model.
I drive that same stretch of freeway (HWY 50, near Sacramento/Folsom), which is concrete pavement with slight undulations, and I don't get that resonating bounce that a lot of you folks speak of. My air pressure is checked often, and it's at 35psi. I know most concrete pavements exhibit undulations from wear and strain from loaded trucks. I can feel the undulations in the Z, but I can't really call it an unliveable bounce. I do, however, know exactly what some of you folks are talking about because my motorcycle has that head jarring nauseating bounce on certain stretches of I-280 in Silicon Valley. While I'm bouncing around like a clown on meth, everyone else in a cage looks like they're having a nice leasurely drive.
I've found that it all boils down to a combination of wheel base, weight, spring rates (also influenced by tire pressure), and damping rates, that has a fundamental frequency that equals that of the undulation frequency. A matching frequency would amplify the effects of the undulations, thereby causing a bounce that may even cause your wheel to lose contact with the pavement. You can change the fundamental frequency by changing any of those parameters. That's probably why some folks have been able to add weight to the rear end or change spring rates to eliminate the bounce. However, that change may take care of a particular stretch of road, but if you drive on another strech of road where the undulations are spaced out differently (slab segments are different lengths) or travel speed is different, that bounce might resurface.
If you speed up or slow down 15-20mph from the speed that causes the most severe bounce, it should change the frequency of the undulations enough to reduce the bounce to a more tolerable level.
All-in-all, I wouldn't expect a suspension specialist to design a particular suspension for repeated undulations of the pavement. Concrete pavement designs differ from state to state, and country to country. It is just very unfortunate that the combination of weight distribution, spring rate, and % damping (shocks) matches that of concrete pavement undulations/warpage in your neck of the woods. Those Nissan engineers tried to optimize weight distribution and suspension characteristics while staying within a set budget, but unfortunately they fails in real-world test on old concrete pavements in certain parts of the world.
Now, I've only read about 30-40 posts on this subject, but are any of you finding problems with bounce on asphalt pavement (AC)? I suspect that you shouldn't at all because AC does not exhibit cylical undulations. If nobody has problems on AC, then it's mostly a road issue...poor ride quality from poor construction and poor design of rigid/cancrete pavement.
Do any of you who have the bounce problem live near Sacramento? If so, we can do a comparison test. Just PM me.
don
I have a 2004 Enthusiast coupe 6MT. I've been following the tire feathering and bouncing threads, and haven't found my car to exhibit any of those problems (yet). I only have 2000 miles, so the tire feathering problems may not arise for another 8000 miles or so. Sadly to say, I'm expecting it to surface, and have been monitoring my tires every couple weeks. If I'm one of the lucky, feathering may never surface, but it helps me deal with the situaltion if I expect it to happen.
As for bouncing, I have not perceived that characteristic in my 2004 Z. However, before I bought my car (7 weeks ago), one of my coworkers told me he saw a Z along the same stretch of freeway that both of us commute on, and he noticed that the car looked like it was bouncing all over the place. He told me the bouncing at the rear looked similar to that of the rear axle of an empty 18-wheeler trailer. That observations was about 6 months ago, so it was definitely a 2003 model.
I drive that same stretch of freeway (HWY 50, near Sacramento/Folsom), which is concrete pavement with slight undulations, and I don't get that resonating bounce that a lot of you folks speak of. My air pressure is checked often, and it's at 35psi. I know most concrete pavements exhibit undulations from wear and strain from loaded trucks. I can feel the undulations in the Z, but I can't really call it an unliveable bounce. I do, however, know exactly what some of you folks are talking about because my motorcycle has that head jarring nauseating bounce on certain stretches of I-280 in Silicon Valley. While I'm bouncing around like a clown on meth, everyone else in a cage looks like they're having a nice leasurely drive.
I've found that it all boils down to a combination of wheel base, weight, spring rates (also influenced by tire pressure), and damping rates, that has a fundamental frequency that equals that of the undulation frequency. A matching frequency would amplify the effects of the undulations, thereby causing a bounce that may even cause your wheel to lose contact with the pavement. You can change the fundamental frequency by changing any of those parameters. That's probably why some folks have been able to add weight to the rear end or change spring rates to eliminate the bounce. However, that change may take care of a particular stretch of road, but if you drive on another strech of road where the undulations are spaced out differently (slab segments are different lengths) or travel speed is different, that bounce might resurface.
If you speed up or slow down 15-20mph from the speed that causes the most severe bounce, it should change the frequency of the undulations enough to reduce the bounce to a more tolerable level.
All-in-all, I wouldn't expect a suspension specialist to design a particular suspension for repeated undulations of the pavement. Concrete pavement designs differ from state to state, and country to country. It is just very unfortunate that the combination of weight distribution, spring rate, and % damping (shocks) matches that of concrete pavement undulations/warpage in your neck of the woods. Those Nissan engineers tried to optimize weight distribution and suspension characteristics while staying within a set budget, but unfortunately they fails in real-world test on old concrete pavements in certain parts of the world.
Now, I've only read about 30-40 posts on this subject, but are any of you finding problems with bounce on asphalt pavement (AC)? I suspect that you shouldn't at all because AC does not exhibit cylical undulations. If nobody has problems on AC, then it's mostly a road issue...poor ride quality from poor construction and poor design of rigid/cancrete pavement.
Do any of you who have the bounce problem live near Sacramento? If so, we can do a comparison test. Just PM me.
don
Since I haven't perceived a serious problem with the bouncing (above and beyond what I'd expect from a very firm suspension), and have the same car as everyone else, I'm going to have to visit the nearest Honda dealer, and test drive the S2000 on the same stretch of road that has concrete pavement. I'm so curious now as to the comparison between cars with similar design goals.
I drove into work today, and paid extra attention to the ride. I did notice a firm ride that transfers some mild bouncing on concrete pavement, but again, not enough to complain to NNA. Can someone in Northern California, preferably those in the Sacramento or Bay Area direct me to a stretch of road that brings out a more severe bouncing problem (the nauseating, head jarring kind)? Or am I just lucky to be here in CA, land of smooth roads?
Oh, my last car, a '94 Nissan Sentra has the bounce on the new Cypress freeway through Oakland. The stretch is over a concrete box girder viaduct, not concrete pavement. The sags at midspan hit the same frequency as my suspension, and that bouncing made my passengers ill to the stomach. That Sentra has no perceived bounce on the stretch of Hwy 50 where the Z has a mild bounce. Just like the south end of I-280 on my motorcycle, barf inducing bounce, but not aggravating in cars.
I drove into work today, and paid extra attention to the ride. I did notice a firm ride that transfers some mild bouncing on concrete pavement, but again, not enough to complain to NNA. Can someone in Northern California, preferably those in the Sacramento or Bay Area direct me to a stretch of road that brings out a more severe bouncing problem (the nauseating, head jarring kind)? Or am I just lucky to be here in CA, land of smooth roads?
Oh, my last car, a '94 Nissan Sentra has the bounce on the new Cypress freeway through Oakland. The stretch is over a concrete box girder viaduct, not concrete pavement. The sags at midspan hit the same frequency as my suspension, and that bouncing made my passengers ill to the stomach. That Sentra has no perceived bounce on the stretch of Hwy 50 where the Z has a mild bounce. Just like the south end of I-280 on my motorcycle, barf inducing bounce, but not aggravating in cars.
I thought 17" rims should make the ride less "bouncy" then larger ones? ALso maybe I shouldn't complain or just don't notice because Im not sure what bounce you guys are reffering to.


