Arrrrgghhh!! I drove yesterday with my windows down and could hear a leak somewhere on the passenger side. I was hoping that it was just some bolts that needed to be re-tightenend, but the weld where the three tubes connect has failed. The headers were purchased and installed last November, so not even a year old. The shop where I bought them is checking with DC for me regarding warranty, but says that they typically will not honor it because I probably "bottomed out". Should that be the case, he has offered to weld it for free. Has anyone had any experience with DC and warranty issues? (and) Any chance that re-welding stainless steel headers will hold.
Thanks for any input, G. (The guy driving around OC with a "plapping" sound)

 

IMO this is one of the prices you pay for getting thin walled SS, as opposed to the thick stock cast manifolds...

Lucky he's going to weld it for free!

Any metal that goes through heat and load (torque) cycles runs the risk of getting cracked. It's basic materials science.

My question is, do you have any coating on the headers? How about heat wrap?

 

My understanding of heat wrap is that it's bad for the headers and associated gaskets. You may see some performance gain from wrapping them, but at the expense of probable damage. so....no wrap and no coating. I'll take the free welding and hope to reinforce the brace at the bottom to prevent drastic movement which probably caused this. There are a couple of mean dips on the 405 freeway which compress the car at speed, and I'm sure I broke the weld during one of these events. If all else fails...back to stock????? Errrrrrr. Thanks Wired, anything further that you can think of?

 

i would push DC harder to get the part replaced for free under warranty. it either shows poor design if a part fails under normal usage in that short of service life or a bad weld since it failed at a joint.

 

Yes, dc needs to pay up! Headers should have no problem lasting a year if made properly!

 

I bought a set of headers and had them coated (JetHot 2000). The coating is inside and out, allowing the hot gasses to pass right through, it creates a thermal barrier. I believe in the stuff and couldn't imagine not having it. According to JetHot it reduces temps up to 40%. I beat on my engine, haven't melted anything yet... The wrap just traps heat like a that little kid bundled up on Christmas Story, LOL!

And the stock headers are not cast, take them completely apart and look for yourself. They are two stamped steel halves, welded up the middle. They're actually pretty crappy and the tubing diameter is small.

Zquicksilver

 

Wow I didn't realize that at all... damn

 

Crap %##**&&^^!! crap. Yes the header is still in warranty. Problem... to take one out and lose the car for three months waiting for it to be replaced....or take both out and return to stock while waiting for them to return. The second scenario will cost me close to $1000.00 in labor. I've decided to not let my guy do it for free, but to take it to a "welding virtuoso" that I've been turned on to. He of course can't guarantee the job, but he's going to see what he can do for me tomorrow. (I'm supposed to bring a six pack of Coors light long necks with me to get the "Bro deal" according to reliable sources) Hope this works, or it's back to stock for me.

 

how about calling DC/AEM and letting them compensate you for install charges. i think AEM is located in hawthorne...

 

It would be great if DC sent you a header now. When you remove the cracked one, return it to DC. I guess that would be too much to ask.

 

that would be my suggestion too. take a picture or get a rep/dealer to look at it, verify that it failed, and get them to send you the part... possibly put a refundable deposit down until you return the failed part?

 

S/S can be tig welded-- Id retig the circumference of all 3 tubes and maybe consider preheating before, at least a couple hundred degrees.

 

Yes indeed. He was able to get most of the way around, but about 1/4 of an inch on each side remains. Since the top was still intact, it's pretty tight where un-welded and I no longer sound like a bid fart going down the road. For a six-er of Coors Light, I'm pretty happy. Once the shop where I service my car as a slow period, we're going to pull it so that he can finish the job. Thanks for all the responses, and suggestions.