bump have the same problem...any fixes?!?

 

What is your temp doing if you just start your car and let it idle? Does it ever get up to normal temp? Or does it take driving to get it to normal (1/2 way up) temp? If so, it is your thermostat.

 

^^when i start the car and let it sit, temp goes up to the middle where it always goes and stays there. However heat blowing thru vents is warm at most. then when i rev it heats up good. Dealer just changed thermostat and its still doing the same thing...this car is soo annoying...

 

Hey, I can keep my heat by revving up to 1200rpm on idle.

I think it might be the underdrive pulley. Are you all running pulleys, also?

 

I have the same issue and am running the UR pulley. I was also wondering if that had something to do with it...though not the same car, I've never had any issues with it on my Z32. My coolant is topped-off w/no air bubbles in the system (as far as I can tell). However, my resovoir is below the min line. Gonna fill it up this week to see if it helps.

|dg

 

Took mine to the dealer today...they tried flushing the system twice to no avail. They told me my theory about the pulley was no good, as the water pump is NOT belt driven, but off the timing chain.

Current theory is that a blade or 2 may have sheared off the water pump.
They are going to change that (get this, under the powertrain warrantee) and I will post the results. Mine was originally intermittant, and became a steady problem. (At every idle, I lose the heater.)

Stay tuned...

 

Just like to also add that you are not alone.

Happened to my rsx, but i bought the Z so i didn't really care after that. Hoep you get it fixed.

 

there is a air bubble in the system try draining and re-filling slowly with the car at a angle if not you may spin your rod and main bearings.

 

i had the same problem, and a system "burp " was required... never had the problem again... according to service advisor, an air pocket in the system was what caused it

 

While trying to prove the water pump was defective, they jacked the front of the car up 30 degrees and tested the heater, still finding it to not work.

They were convinced it WAS the water pump, but when I got the car back, the heater WORKED AT ALL TIMES! I think the jacking thing inadvertantly released the air bubble. I am glad, because I really don't want them taking things apart that are not broken.

Thanks to all commenters, and give this a try if you have the problem. Jack first, then bleed the air.

Rich

 

my girlfriends car is doing the same thing. i am going to check the coolant level and also bleed the air out.

 

Today it was ~ 32 degrees outside. I started my 03 Z and let it idle for ~ 15 mins with the defroster on b/c i had ice all over my windshield. When i came out 15 20 mins later my z was blowing cold air but my Temperature gauge was in the middle. As soon as i started driving the car its like a valve opened it it blew extremely hot air out?

Whats causing this? This also air in the line or something else?

 

mine was doing the same, I bled it once on a ramp and once on level ground. After the second bleading it blows warm all the time now!!!

So get out there and start bleeding.

 

I had this same problem, so I decided to remedy it over the weekend. Had a prob getting all the old stuff to drain out...took forever. only 5 qts came out at first. ran the engine for a bit and it slowly trickled out. Replaced old coolant w/ new stuff from the dealer and distilled water. I poured extremely slow, refilling to the brim several times as it drained into the system.

Bled using the bleeder valve close to the firewall several times. Went for a drive, got it up to temp, bled some more, topped it off, some more, topped it off, some more and some more. Went to play some Forza2 for an hour while it cooled, came back, topped it off @ the bleeder valve and radiator. Went for a drive, still some air in there....Then OH *** ...i dropped the bleeder valve screw into the engine bay never to be seen again. (i was at a gas station at the time). They happen to have a oil drain plug that was the same threads, so it got me outta there, but i looked like a damn fool diggin around the engine, jackin the car up to look in the pans on the bottom for the black bleeder screw, all in a nice dress shirt cause i was on my way somewhere. they dont sell them at autozone, napa, or checker. Dealer had to order it, so it'll be a few days.

Anyways, Finally got it to where I'd get hot air @ idle. Perfect!

but then this morning it wasnt... what gives? maybe once I get the stock bleeder plug it'll cooperate again.

 

Check the hoses going into the heater core. Both the inlet and outlet hoses should very hot after the car reaches operating temp. Just wondering if the problem is with the heater core?

 

where do i find the heater core?

 

The heater core is located behind the passenger side dash area. In the engine bay you will see two hoses run right through the firewall, behind the passenger side dash area. One hose is the inlet and one is the outle for the heater core they should both be hot once the engine is at operating temp.

 

I found the air bleeder valve, see pic on first page, and mine was dry, i put water in till it was full then put the screw back on, ran the car, and put water till full, and ran the car. fixed mine.

 

In my Z (a 2003 Performance model) the Auto temp setting works well in the summer, and doesn’t work at all when the outside ambient temperature drops to freezing (32 F degrees or less). In fact, setting the dials to Auto will blow cold air when the outside temperature is freezing ( WTF??)

In the winter, I set everything to Manual, and just barely get by no matter what temperature I set manually. The Auto setting in winter doesn’t work reliably, and setting the system manually is "hit and miss."

--Spike

 

i didnt read through this thread at all but if it has already been mentioned igore this but u gotta do an air bleed to ur coolant/heater system...

its located in the rear left of the motor little black **** with phillips head...

-get the car warmed up and heater at full blast....
-slowly rev to 3k and keep it there..
-VERY SLOWLY about 1/3 turns at a time, unscrew the bleeder... u do it fast and it will pop off and u wil have a mess on ur hands..
-the threading on the thing is very little and is easy to make it spew everywehre..
-once u start seeing and hearing air and collant bubble out stop screw it back it and stop revving..
-repeat that step a couple times.. i did it 4 times..
-do it until the heater stays hot when ur not revving..