Ok this is the second damn car I have owned to do this. My passenger side rear caliper is intermittently hanging up and not releasing enough from the rotor. I know the pads are always barely touching, but it’s a noticeable sloshing and grinding noise when I have my foot off of the brake. I called the dealer to ask how much new calipers cost thinking the worse, and since I have brembo its around $1100 for the damn thing; I did check to see if they have the caliper rebuild kits. They do and it is around $55. I did the rebuild kit on my last car and it fixed the problem. So I’m gona try that first. Just wanted to check to see if any of you guys have had this problem; also does anyone know where I can get a cheaper replacement Brembo…o and does $1100 sound about right?

 

they figure if you drive around with Brembo...you can afford paying 1100$.

 

ha yeah! O yeah and its 1300 not 1100...not that it makes that much of a difference when its this much .

 

ouch!

 

Are your rotors warp? Do you feel vibration in the steering wheel when you brake hard?

 

no vibration, its the right rear though. Its like the caliper is taking longer to release. Thats why I'm hoping the rebuild kit will fix it. It did on my last car, just replaced to o-rings and greased and it was good to go.

 

so nobody ever had this problem on a car?

 

i have problems, but different htan yours

 

might be air in the line if the caliber isn't releasing all the way. Trying bleeding them. If that's not it, take the caliber off and clean the brake dust out of it. It is probably gunked up. The combination of both, or either or may fix your problem.

 

If you are still running the rubber flex lines, the inner wall may have colapsed, thus, allowing pressurization of the pistons but not release. Replace with Stainless flex. You have by now caused warpage and thats a vicious circle....Warpage caused friction,friction causes heat, heat causes more warpage. Address the warpage and replace the pads. Nothing wrong with putting a kit into a caliper, just make sure you have a hone to break the cylinder glaze and reassemble with the lube thats for that. It is Fluid based.

 

You know to be honest with you, I've never heard of a caliper not releasing. The pad is always going to rub on your rotor. If you engaged the brake the pad bites down on the rotor. If you release your foot but the pad never stops biting, you'd eventually smell burning brakes or experience some type of drag. What I think you have my friend is a bent brake dust shield rubbing on the rotor as it spins. This will make a distinct rubbing noise....

 

I have, but it is generally not the calipers fault. Its a colapsed hose or a filthy Master cylinder that has a valve prob. The only times its the cylinders fault is when the vehicle sits with dirty fluid ( water saturated ) and the piston/wall gets crapped up.
And as a rule, if for what ever reason you have a caliper hang, you will get a vibration or shimmy driving as though you have Belt separation in the tire. Of course that wipes out the rotor cuz it gets glazed and polished as with the Pad-----No friction----No Brakes
Happened to me 2 days ago driving a friends 2002 Ford F150, IT SITS !!! I had to pull over and cool the brakes with a hose and open the bleeder to relieve the pressure. Severe Shimmy. I knew what the prob was. Got home takin it easy and did a brake job on it.

 

this sounds about right. it's very hard to see the colapsed rubber line b/c it's in the inside. it might look OK with the naked eye but inside the lines is where the problem is.

 

My old Prelude had a rear caliper completely sieze. I ended up having to swap in a rebuilt caliper because I couldn't unsieze the piston in order to do a rebuild. Not sure what caused it but it wore out a set of pads in 2 days before I figured out what was going on.

 

ok, I figured the worse about the caliper! It seems that both the rear calipers caused uneven wearing of the inner break pads! My question is, is this characteristic of brembo or do I have a problem? The left side had a little bit more padding on it but not hat much. Not enough to think the calipers are hanging up, but maybe they are! Does not seem correct for the insides to ware that much faster; therefore, I’m thinking about rebuilding both calipers, but its hard to believe both calipers went bad!!!

 

I am not that familiar with the Brembos, but the principals are the same. With multi-Piston High Performance Brakes you have a lot of independence in order to get a balanced "Float" of the Caliper.

I refer to them as sliders and what they do, is allows the Caliper to stay centered and balanced through out Daily use and Pad wear.

To properly do a brake job, whether it is a Chev S10 or a Pantera, the sliders have to be polished and lubed with synthetic Hi-Temp grease when you are replacing Pads and rotors so the Caliper will float. Generally they are protected with a rubber boot. NOT TO BE CONFUSED WITH THE PISTON BOOT

It sounds as though your sliders were gummed/rusted/dried and the caliper was not "centering" itself.....Thus, wearing the inner pad cuz it was doing all the work.

There are NO shortcuts---build the calipers, clean and lube the sliders,replace the pads, spin the rotors and make sure your flex lines are in good shape

 

Can you use the Mobil 1 high temp grease for your calipers?

 

I didnt know that Mobile 1 made a high Temp but what I use is Sta-Lube Synyhetic Caliper Grease that I guess I buy at Napa

 

Eazzzzy the brembos are fixed calipers. They don't float.

 

Thats the reason I stated I was not familiar with the Brembos, so as to cover my butt---If I could put my hands on a set Id be able to figure out his Inner Pad wear better

The Brembos are fed by a single line right ???? Then have an o-ring sealed passage way from inner piston assy to outer piston assy ?

What balances the fluid pressure ?

Fill me in a little here if you can