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HELP!! Cracked Upper Oil pan

Old 11-27-2007, 07:17 PM
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str8dum1
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Default HELP!! Cracked Upper Oil pan

ARGH,

My upper oil pan where the oil sender screws into is cracked. Oil just pours out when the car is on.

The actual upper oil pan is only ~$100 from Nissan (I have a 2003 G35c btw). Has anyone had to replace this? Ideas on how involved it is to replace? Looks like you have to remove the cross member or pull the motor

The easier option would be JB weld the 1/8" BSPT to 1/8" NPT adaptor in the hole. Do you guys think that would work? That should seal the hole and crack.

Please help.

Thanks!
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Old 11-27-2007, 08:16 PM
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pics?
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Old 11-27-2007, 08:25 PM
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as you can see its split at the top. its not deep though.
Attached Thumbnails HELP!! Cracked Upper Oil pan-cracked-sender-1280.jpg  
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Old 11-27-2007, 08:29 PM
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WOW that sucks
you have to remove the front subframe to get the upper oilpan off. not very easy at all. You might be able to get a aluminum shop to weld it but they may not be able to with where its at. You only other option is get a tube of lquid metal and some JB quick and that may or may not hold it just as a temp fix to get it somewhere to get it either welded or replaced good luck.
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Old 11-27-2007, 09:39 PM
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Iv replaced them---Takes time ---I just drop the whole front suspension. But no huge deal
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Old 11-27-2007, 10:05 PM
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could i also just use a 1/8" BSPT plug with jb weld, sealing the hole? and run the sensor off my sandwich plate?

would that be better than tryin to keep the sender there?
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Old 11-28-2007, 05:24 AM
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To be honest...and in all due respect, The only half *** way to get by is to carefully, slightly groove the crack and clean with laquer thinner. Then.....using Permatex teflon sealer, install the sensor just past finger tight. Dont use JB. Use Devcon epoxy for that application (Google is your friend) and let everything set for 36 hours.
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Old 11-28-2007, 05:33 AM
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if i can just drop the front cross member, i'd much rather replace the upper pan. i can do stuff under the car, i just dont have an engine hoist.

will read up on the epoxy. i assume you meant the 2 ton devcon epoxy??

what exactly do you mean by groove the crack?
Thanks!!!

Last edited by str8dum1; 11-28-2007 at 05:40 AM.
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Old 11-28-2007, 05:46 AM
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Originally Posted by str8dum1
if i can just drop the front cross member, i'd much rather replace the upper pan. i can do stuff under the car, i just dont have an engine hoist.

will read up on the epoxy. i assume you meant the 2 ton devcon epoxy??

what exactly do you mean by groove the crack?
Thanks!!!
I PMed-----Devcon is the top of the line epoxy and makes dozens of different types---some for aluminum. Grooving means V-ing out the crack.

U will need a hoist because there will be nothing supporting the engine and it helps to raise it also to make room
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Old 11-28-2007, 06:25 AM
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You could get a crossmember support that goes from fender to fender to hold up your engine i think autozone or somewhere like that my rent those. THey get used alot on FWD.
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Old 11-28-2007, 07:19 AM
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can i not use a floor jack with some wood?
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Old 11-28-2007, 08:21 AM
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Your going to need your floor jack to support and lower your front suspension and to reinstall it....... Your going to run out of Jacks. If nothing else, break the motor mounts loose, raise the motor and hang it from a beam in your garage by a chain or cable or come-along.
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Old 11-28-2007, 08:24 AM
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Or... as Jarred said.... even a padded 4x4 across your fenders-----Just so you can hang the motor.

The main thing is ...... You need room, other wise you will smear the sealant on installation and get a leak. You DONT want to have to do this twice
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Old 11-28-2007, 09:13 AM
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JB doesn't work too well with those cracks. The same thing happened on my g/f's accord. The crack looked like yours but it was at the transmission drain bolt (not a cheap replacement). I tried using JB weld. At first the leakage stopped, but after a few weeks or so, it slowly began to drip again. I sanded everything off then applied a very strong gasket sealer onto the threads and over the cracked area. Ever since I've done that there has been no leakage at all... and its been over a year now.
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Old 11-28-2007, 10:08 AM
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JB weld is a very good, cheap, Handymans epoxy. Devcon is an Industrial Grade Epoxy that has many gradiated increments to suit a specific need. There will be a Devcon that is specifically for Cast Aluminum.

I have in earlier years, patched 12 inch cracks in blocks that are holding up to this day with Devcon

Im not saying this is a proper fix by the book. Im just saying that its an alternative that works
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Old 11-28-2007, 05:19 PM
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Thats alot of work! How did you get the crack?
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Old 11-28-2007, 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by JonsilvZ
Thats alot of work! How did you get the crack?
I dont have to wait for OP to give that answer---Someome tightened down the fitting too tight---If he has the Vortec, then someone tightened the Tee too hard
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Old 11-28-2007, 06:09 PM
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Thats the reason u use Permatex Teflon sealant ---All you have to do is snug it and it wont leak, and I can see from the picture they used Nothing, or Teflon Tape.

NO GOOD !!!!!!!!

Teflon Tape is for your household plumbing, IF that !

Last edited by Eazzy; 11-29-2007 at 06:05 AM.
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Old 05-21-2015, 06:27 PM
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im guessing you overtightened your sensor. The thread is tapered so its not supposed to go all the way in. The torque specs are bull ****, 9-12ft-lbs!? it won't get anywhere close to that with out cracking. JB weld won't work, even if you use marine weld. Trust me, I've tried for 2 weeks and it got me no where. I'm hoping you were able to take it out from down under and weld it. aftermarket oil sensors use 1/8 NPT tappers to rethread it. OEM uses BSPT. i hope everything went well. tell me what you ended up doing cause I'm in the same dilemma lol

btw, this is what you should have used if you were to drop the subframe, i got it out without removing the steering rack too.... well i removed the passenger tie rod but thats one third of the steering rack.



Last edited by dudeitsmartin; 05-21-2015 at 06:33 PM.
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Old 05-21-2015, 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by dudeitsmartin View Post
im guessing you overtightened your sensor. The thread is tapered so its not supposed to go all the way in. The torque specs are bull ****, 9-12ft-lbs!? it won't get anywhere close to that with out cracking. JB weld won't work, even if you use marine weld. Trust me, I've tried for 2 weeks and it got me no where. I'm hoping you were able to take it out from down under and weld it. aftermarket oil sensors use 1/8 NPT tappers to rethread it. OEM uses BSPT. i hope everything went well. tell me what you ended up doing cause I'm in the same dilemma lol

btw, this is what you should have used if you were to drop the subframe, i got it out without removing the steering rack too.... well i removed the passenger tie rod but thats one third of the steering rack.


come on dude!... you responded to a 7.5 year old dead thread
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