In my case there was a trace function through CONSULT (II?) that told the tech that there was a break in a six foot section, but not where. He had to work front to back until he found it. This was, unfortunately, not something I could have done myself - it was one small wire in about a 2-3 cm harness bundle that runs half the length of the car.

I'll look at the FSM, but honesty I think most of the debugging process for electrical if the ignition circuit is involved is helped by the tracing capabilities, but much of finding the actual problem is manual. Still, I ended up with 2.5 hours charged total; it could have been far worse (e.g. toasted VDC Yaw Sensor, ABS unit, etc. all out of warranty by one month!).

BTW this repair would have been covered under the bumper to bumper warranty but I was past it on time. Still, they gave me a low-ball hours number, I cannot really complain for a dealer's rates.

I think its also worth some TSB searching, although I have not run across one, it's possible.

Good luck, guessing from what you've said your keys are probably not the issue, it's not like the BMW key that charges the fob in the ignition, it's just a key in the sense there's no connection to the fob operation and the actual key blank. Take away the fob's power source, then you'll know.

- ST

 

There has to be a recall on these Z's windows.

 

Hmm...this is not so encouraging (2003 G35 Coupe, but the stuff is 99% similar when it comes to problems), similar problem, the "BCM" was replaced:

2003 Windows go down on their own

BCM-Body Control Module - clearly the system component in charge of all this stuff. Good news is you can lock out the setting for the auto-window down through

Note second column, PW DOWN SET - I believe this can be configured not to work, i.e. your key fob will not operate the windows at all in MODE 2. If the key fob was causing problems and you only have one ($200 a pop I am guessing to replace), worth looking into:





I don't think they built in the ability for the owner to change this in the Z or G - like they did in Q-ships and a lot of other models where you could change it through the NAV:

"Unfortunately, you do need to go to the dealer. They have a little handheld machine they need to connect to it in order to make the changes. Some dealers will also charge you for this service, so I recommend making it part of your purchase/lease negotiation..."

Possibly you could set the Remote Power Window Down Operation Mode to OFF and see if this goes away. I'd prefer to live w/o remote window down in Summer, than have them go down by themselves in Winter or Rain!

I'm thinking that this being a dealer-only change is bogus given all you should need is an OBDII code reader that can set codes, too.

At least there is a CONSULT II diagnostic for the BCM, if you do have to go in, you can confirm that it checks out OK, which pretty much leaves the key fob as the suspect...

Good luck!

 

There is a related TSB for this problem for my car -
"I don't know if this is related but the 03/04 G35 had a tsb issued for a problem with the window calibration."

http://www.infinitihelp.com/Ownershi.../ITB04-033.htm

This appears to be a problem with more than one Nissan - here's an FX35 owner, he was referred to the above TSB for the G35 03-04 Coupe, but there is probably a Nissan TSB for the same thing. The TSB is a window regulator reset procedure that covers a lot of problems.

Seems to have fixed his problem which sounds VERY familiar to yours:

Worth a look. TSB supporting your position would surely help defer any dealer costs.

I have the full PDF for this, let me know if you want a copy, I could not make the link work to just link to it.

HTH

 

I have an 03 z with 44k on it and yesterday while driving both windows went down about 2inches. WHen i tried to roll them up they acted like they were at the top even though they were actually 2 inches below the top. After going to lunch and driving around a few hrs they finally started working again.

Another minus for Z windows.

 

Unless I am smoking somme thing . the window supose to go down to ovoid damaging the door seal, and go back up when the door close.... .
There is no probleme with this one.... !
Did I miss some thing???

 

Um, where you left your pipe, laughing boy? I'd ask more what you did not miss, the list would be far shorter. I will attempt to explain this to you using words with as few syllables as possible:

The window only goes down less than 1cm to avoid the body, not the "door seal" which is made of soft material. When you close the door, the window tightens up by moving up a small amount - less than ~1cm.

Under no normal conditions would there be an unintentional 2" gap or anything even close to that. That is more like the position the window goes to first by default when you use the key fob to open the windows - they drop about that amount, then roll down the rest of the way. If you're too stoned, you can always have someone read this to you until it makes sense.

Unless you walk through life smoking crack, you obviously do not own or regularly drive a Z or G Coupe, so STFU and go find someplace else to utterly fail at ridiculing people on a subject you contribute nothing to, and clearly know nothing about.

 

So if i was to turn off the "PW DOWN SET" function in my car or fob. Do you have specific instructions on how to do that manually? I am looking at the charts, have a hard time understanding it... I really hate going to the dealership, unless it's the last resort.

 

Sorry, no I haven't been able to find a way to do it manually. It's changed stored codes or info in the BCM or another place (ECM maybe), so somehow the info has to get into the car.

The key fob doesn't seem to do anything different, it's all in how the car interprets the signal from it. Wish I knew how, this used to be something you could set but I cannot find any reference to DIY. If I do I'll post back, I hear you on dealer visits, very low on my list of fun things to do.

I'd love to lock out the signal that allows the fob to lower the windows; cleaning water out of leather interior was not fun, esp when what I could not get became a coating of ice on my seats and windows the next morning.

 

A few more points, HTH:

This means when the key is in the ignition and ON, it can receive signals from the window down function. If the fob is malfunctioning, even when its in the ignition it can still send the signal to lower your windows, I thought it couldn't send any signals. I thought you could rule it out when it was IN the ignition, not true.

Bad news - for virtually every problem with a malfunction in the Keyless remote entry system, the solution is to "Replace BCM".

So, it looks like you could sacrifice functions like retained power, or have the fob modes changed, both ONLY through CONSULTII. Basically everything else says check ground, if ground is good, replace BCM

Something I have not done is to disconnect the battery, that is about the last thing outside a dealer I can suggest - disconnect it, turn the lights on, hit the brake pedal, try to ensure it's drained (you lose all your stereo presets, bummer). Then reconnect it and see if your auto-down problem stops when turning off the car. Other than that, it's visit the dealer, or at least someone who can access the ports w/CONSULTII.

One thing that is clear given the number of steps required using CONSULTII, I see no way to back door changing these settings, and I would not even attempt to do so with your keyless remote; if you clear its code by accident, it no longer works at all with your car. This area was set up as "Anti-DIY" if I have ever seen one. What we need is a PC-based interface that does the same thing as CONSULTII and a cable, then we could do half this crap ourselves. The instructions are made to be so simple as to be almost insulting, there has to be a way to completely emulate that system on a laptop...


Precautions for Battery Service AIS002NJ
Before disconnecting the battery, lower both the driver and passenger windows. This will prevent any interference between the window edge and the vehicle when the door is opened/closed. During normal operation, the
window slightly raises and lowers automatically to prevent any window to vehicle interference. The automatic window function will not work with the battery disconnected.

 

I'm having this problem too with an 03 Z. Just started today, which im sure someone out there plannede because its been raining cats and dogs for hours now. My windows are rolling down by themselves. Even hours after I left the car. It's really annoyin because I have to keep an eye on it. I replaced the alarm years ago so I havent used the keyless entry remote. Has anyone found a solution?!

 

ALSO, there is a clicking sound coming from around the steering wheel area before the window rolls down. It only clicks when the window rolls down, obvisouly related

 

Only potential solution I've found is disabling the remote down, but in your case it almost sounds like a short - or a bad relay, clicking sounds are usually electrical. The BCM I mentioned above is down in the area if the sound is coming from down low vs. high on the dash. Nothing can be done that I know of w/o hookup to CONSULTII. Wish I had a better answer, good luck. You might get lucky and just have a bad relay, also check your fuses, just in case.

HTH

 

I did check the fuses, and they were all good. From there, not sure what it can be. It did stop doing it after that day. Now im kind of freaked out that the windows will go down when im not around. Thanks for the input!

 

Steve

I do have one 08 touring.
I t is because of people like you that these site gose to grap.
I am French, so you may have to put only two silable in the word you are using.
This do not make you smater, it make you a dumd b.. speaking only one language.
If you know that much about tha 350 why do we see that many usless tread , or responce from you?

 

N350ZT, vous supposez trop. Je pardonnerai votre ignorance, parce que vous etes inconnues a cet endroit. Je suis embarrased pour tous les gens francais que vous le diriez. J'essaierai de repondre a vos questions pour vous leur avez demande :

1) Je parle seulement un français. Je parle le suedois beaucoup mieux. Je peux lire l'allemand, mais ne pas parler la langue. Parlez-vous ou ecrivez a l'allemand ? Le Suedois?
2) Vous semblez un petit temps. Notre forum Internet est assez bon, je pense.
3) Si ma contribution est vaine, pourquoi les gens disent-ils "le merci" ?

Desole, mon francais n'est pas le meilleur. Please forgive my less than perfect spelling and grammar, I do not mean any insult to your language or culture.

I stand with my original comments; if you do own a 350z, you must never pay much attention to the windows, or perhaps there is something lost in the translation (Si vous possedez un 350z, donc vous ne faites pas d'attention aux fentsres).

N350ZT, you call me a d**k in a Private Message. How does this help? Please stay on topic (Vous m'avez appele un ***** dans un message prive. Comment contribue-t-il ? Restez s'il vous plait sur le theme). You should also know that Private Messages are wide open to our Forum Admins, it is not a means to be a chicken-sh*t (I have no translation that is meaningful) and write things in private messages that you would not post otherwise.

If you have some insight on the problem under discussion please share with us. (Si vous savez quelque chose de ce probleme, partagez s'il vous plait avec nous tous.) Si non, alors STFU!

Maintenant comprenez-vous 'STFU'?

Bon, je suis heureux pour vous.

 

You're welcome. I am still checking around with different people, there must be a way to set codes outside of the CONSULTII interface - the codes must have less plain letters+numbers, and with a 2-way (reads and sets) ODBII scanner it should be feasible. I just need to find someone who really knows that system.

Very frustrating, I do not want to ever walk out and find the inside of my car looking like a fish tank again. I was lucky to catch it same day so I could dry it out quickly.

I have not had my original problem since making the key fob, but that is not the same problem as turning the key/windows drop, I think. That seems most likely linked to something in the Body Control Module (BCM) that I know nothing more about than its name, and what is controls...grrr.

 

Hey Steve,

Not to put much pressure on you, but the entire Z community is relying on you to dig this nasty mess out of the water. I have had this problem for 2 months now, and I will still be patiently waiting on a solution to this problem without ripping off an arm or a leg.

 

If you have the FSM, see section GW, page 17 (page # may vary from Z33 to V35). If you don't have an FSM shoot me a PM and email, I'll send the section to you. It's the same functionality between a Z33/V35 w/re to the windows.

You can try pulling fuse #1 in the fuse block, the lower most left fuse, it should be 10A. This should stop the power window function when the ignition is ON or in START. Yes it means you can't use the power windows - but, it also means that the power windows should not go down when you turn off the key. It's not a solution, just a way to tell what's going on here.

If you pull this #1 fuse and the window problem of windows going down when you turn off the key stops, it's even more likely that there is a problem with the BCM:

With ignition switch in ON or START position, power is supplied

through 10A fuse [No.1, located in the fuse block (J/B)]

to BCM terminal 38, and

through BCM terminal 53

to power window main switch terminal 10

Pulling the fuse means the power supplied because of the ignition switch being ON won't do anything - the window should stay put.

Fuse #18, also 10A, provides battery power to the power window system. I don't think pulling this is a good idea because of the anti-pinch feature that lowers the window 10mm, then closes it fully after you close the door. Same with yanking the fusable link (53) which completely disables the power window system, which is also a bad idea for the anti-pinch among other obvious reasons. If you do it with the doors closed, the windows would stay all the way up. If you pull that fuse (18) or link (53) with the doors open, the windows won't seal.

The only path outside the CONSULT system I can see to find the exact problem requires a Multimeter, access to the BCM connector, and some serious patience. If you get really lucky, you may find a bad ground on one of the terminals. The GW section walks through this in detail, if when you pull #1 fuse the problem stops, that points back toward a problem with the BCM. At that point you can either -

A) Sit down with the GW section from the FSM, check the various terminal connectors with a MM, hope for something simple like a bad ground. This also may just tell you the BCM is hosed; if so, proceed to dealer.

OR

B) Do (A) and if you still cannot find a problem, drive w/o power windows which really sucks, or go to a dealer for diagnosis, and probably have to get the BCM replaced (90% of the outcomes to failed test indicate "replace BCM").

It isn't your key, like my problem. The more I check around, most common is the BCM is screwed up, and the window motors are burning out because they're getting used 5X or worse because they go full down and up every time the car is turned off. If under warranty, this seems to be covered. Otherwise it's a pay item for replacement.

The problem where the car is OFF and the windows go down by themselves is consistently looking like the key fob (my problem, so far so good since I replaced battery and stopped using the corroded circuit fob).

HTH.

 

Correction:

Since they rotate the fuse box inside the passenger compartment, that's UPPER left closest to you.

I went to test this out to see if it had any other impact (like not letting the IGN switch work at all, other small probs like that), on the diagram it's LOWER left, as you look at the fuses, UPPER left.

Of course since my car was at the DEALER recently and they replaced the fuse along with the wiring problem to the rear brake light, etc. - they TOOK the FUSE PULLER. It's gone. Some jackass used it to change the fuse and didn't put it back.

I never return my Service Surveys, if you don't have anything nice to say...so far at the dealer besides trivial things like the Fuse Puller missing, they have:

- put a pencil eraser sized hole in my passenger seat and returned the car to me in that condition - I had to raise hell to get it fixed, and the repair was not as good as original, it made the leather around it more like vinyl
- gouged the hell out of my center console and again returned the car to me in that condition
- left the panel off the in-cabin filter above the passenger's feet
- left the passenger side running board panel half-assed in place (forced, not clipped in)
- bent dash trim putting the dash together
- gave me the car back w/o heat for the passenger side (solenoids "failed" mysteriously when they had the dash apart)
- after replacing the solenoid, gave me the car back w/o A/C hooked up to the CC....
- nicked 2 of 4 Brembo calipers when doing the gas tank hose recall (knocked paint off 2 corners on each caliper due to careless handling)
- tried to make a new FW condition of my estimate for a clutch replacement, i.e. pre-approve an $1100 replacement FW at 30k miles on the car vs. machining the original. I went elsewhere and got my JWT Clutch and light FW.

That's why I don't return surveys.

Sorry for the rant, just venting yet another screwed up problem purely the result of a dealer service visit.