How do i torque a nut requiring the use of an open-ended wrench?
05-08-2008, 07:19 PM
#1
How do i torque a nut requiring the use of an open-ended wrench?
I'm not sure if this is a majorly newb-ish question, but I will be installing my Ingalls "Stiffy" Engine Torque Damper soon, and would like to know. It's the same type setup as the OEM adjustable strut tower bar, which I have just tightened by "feel" in the past.
Take a look at page 3 of this pdf to see what the damper looks like if you're not familiar, and also take a quick read through the instructions to see what I mean http://www.ingallseng.com/Instructions/93035.pdf
Thanks so much for any information
Take a look at page 3 of this pdf to see what the damper looks like if you're not familiar, and also take a quick read through the instructions to see what I mean http://www.ingallseng.com/Instructions/93035.pdf
Thanks so much for any information
05-08-2008, 08:41 PM
#2
I'm told I need crows feet style wrenches.
Does anyone happen to know the size of the nuts for the OEM strut tower bar?? I want to make sure the crow's feet set I am getting will be able to be used to tighten/loosen those nuts on the strut bar.
Thank you!
Does anyone happen to know the size of the nuts for the OEM strut tower bar?? I want to make sure the crow's feet set I am getting will be able to be used to tighten/loosen those nuts on the strut bar.
Thank you!
05-09-2008, 06:03 PM
#5
Iv been doing this for 30 years. Torque Specs are so important in particular applications.....For example: Machine Build Components where torque reflects on Clearances/Distortion ----(Rod/Main Caps, Heads, Pinion Nuts, Aluminum Rim Lug Nuts, Engine Dampers, Flywheels, Pressure Plates)
Equally important is sequence and step ups (30, 60 90) for example.
A manufacturer will always give torque specs on everything to cover liability's.
Point is, there are things, that due to lack of critical molecular confusion just need to be tightened ----well, Tight. Experience teaches.
Torque on a given threaded devise is determined by several things whether it be crucial (No Margin for error) or not (Margin for error) That figure is determined by 1. Hardness of the threaded device. 2. Length of the threaded device. 3. Diameter of the threaded device. 4. Thread Pitch of the threaded device. (Fine, Course etc)
Many add ons simply have to be tight if a torque wrench is difficult to use or in all honesty, just a PITA to mess with.
A drop of Loc-Tite will give you peace of mind for questionable situations
Does this Help? Am I getting the gist of your question ?
Equally important is sequence and step ups (30, 60 90) for example.
A manufacturer will always give torque specs on everything to cover liability's.
Point is, there are things, that due to lack of critical molecular confusion just need to be tightened ----well, Tight. Experience teaches.
Torque on a given threaded devise is determined by several things whether it be crucial (No Margin for error) or not (Margin for error) That figure is determined by 1. Hardness of the threaded device. 2. Length of the threaded device. 3. Diameter of the threaded device. 4. Thread Pitch of the threaded device. (Fine, Course etc)
Many add ons simply have to be tight if a torque wrench is difficult to use or in all honesty, just a PITA to mess with.
A drop of Loc-Tite will give you peace of mind for questionable situations
Does this Help? Am I getting the gist of your question ?
Last edited by Eazzy; 05-09-2008 at 06:08 PM.
05-09-2008, 06:15 PM
#6
I might add.....When a torque spec is given, it is for a perfect set of threads and a straight shot with no extension << Flex. And certainly with no Crows foot (offset). Additions to the Torque wrench give you a false reading. (we are spitting hairs here, but its a fact)
There are formulas to compensate for this.
Bottom Line.... Make it tight.
There are formulas to compensate for this.
Bottom Line.... Make it tight.
05-09-2008, 06:25 PM
#7
Originally Posted by Eazzy
I might add.....When a torque spec is given, it is for a perfect set of threads and a straight shot with no extension << Flex. And certainly with no Crows foot (offset). Additions to the Torque wrench give you a false reading. (we are spitting hairs here, but its a fact)
There are formulas to compensate for this.
Bottom Line.... Make it tight.
There are formulas to compensate for this.
Bottom Line.... Make it tight.
Thank you!
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05-10-2008, 08:48 PM
#8
So I priced out metric crowsfoot sets, and talk about expensive!
Is it really going to "damage" the torque damper if I do not use the crowfoot adapter to torque it the way it should be? I'm inclined to think so, but for $70 a set for the set of attachments??
If I should get them (I really want to get at least one or two to fit the nuts on the torque damper), anyone know where I can find hard-to-find tools??
Is it really going to "damage" the torque damper if I do not use the crowfoot adapter to torque it the way it should be? I'm inclined to think so, but for $70 a set for the set of attachments??
If I should get them (I really want to get at least one or two to fit the nuts on the torque damper), anyone know where I can find hard-to-find tools??
05-11-2008, 03:47 PM
#14
Originally Posted by angelo350z
Crows foot matched with a torque wrench. You don't have to buy these tools; some Autozones, Pep Boys, Checkers, etc, rent them out by the hour.
That's a great idea! Thanks angelo. I'll look into it.
It's just that these tools I will rarely use, and it's hard to fork over money that could be better spent elsewhere. Plus, like I said, they're hard to find.
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