Well, I've been eyeing my clutch fluid over the past few months, and that DOT3 brake fluid has always looked pretty nasty. I've noticed that when the car gets hot (or it's hot outside), the clutch engages lower, and the pedal felt a bit spongey. So when the dealer swapped out my tranny, I asked them to flush the clutch fluid. The difference was night and day, and the car feels good as new.

Flushing the clutch fluid normally isn't listed under normal maintenance, but if you want to keep a reliable clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder, the flush the fluid (15K miles, 10K miles if you track your car).

 

So since he flushed it, that means it was bled then........interesting

 

Flush, bleed, same difference.

 

Did you put in a higher-temp brake fluid? If so, which brake fluid did you choose?

 

I contemplated putting in some DOT4 (like the ATE Super Blue), but just had the OEM DOT3 fluid Nissan uses put in. I need to do some research to see if other people have put a higher-temp brake fluid into their clutch hydraulic system.

 

I have already flushed/bled the clutch hydraulics with ATE Blue when I flushed/bled my brakes. I just impulsively changed it without any research. I just assumed....(that has gotten me in trouble in the past)...Please post the results of your research if you find out anything about this.

 

I've been asking around, and thus far the consensus is that since the clutch hydraulic system likely uses the same material in the seals as the brake system, any type of clutch fluid should suffice. I'm inclined to put in some ATE Super Blue next time I change the clutch fluid. Did you bleed the system yourself or did you have someone else do it? I don't have the FSM, so if you have the time could you provide a brief synopsis on the procedure?

 

Can anyone describe the location of the bleed valve for the clutch cylinder? I took a brief look under the hatch where the hatch that houses the brake and clutch cylinders, but I didn't see a nipple. Where is it?
Thanks!
Mika

 

I have used ATE super blue for brakes and clutch...no problem.

I think that avoiding synthetic fluids is still true because of the effect on the seals etc.

 

I didn't realize how old this thread was. I see that I posted last summer after changing my fluids

 

is the bleeder valve located on the slave cylinder? since it is a hydraulic clutch would it be bleed like a regular clutch? i remember back when i had my 1st n/a 300z my buddy went to bleed my clutch & the pedal fell to the floor & wouldnt come up. we had to send it to a shop to get bled correctly. any info would be appreciated, id like to bleed my clutch this weekend.....

-justin

 

i think u should watch out for the super blue fluid. i used it in my S2000 and RSX and had premature clutch slave clyinder failure. unless u have solid lines it can actually hurt the system. i use OEM brands. cant really go wrong with OEM.

i havent used any other brand besides ATE super blue but am inclined to try something less damaging. anyone know of another good brand besides super blue?

john

 

I am bringing back the dead -- I boiled my clutch fluid at the track (I think). Here is the full story on that ...

https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-drivetrain/125149-anyone-ever-boiled-their-clutch-fluid-help-long.html

At least for me -- with these narly Crawford Headers -- the stock DOT3 fluid does not seem to be an option. Has anyone further explored the use of DOT4 fluids like ATE SuperBlue and Motul RPF 600?

Also -- is there a write up anywhere on how to do the bleed/flush? If not, how is it done?

 

Bump. I just had my system flushed with ATE Super Blue and your statements above are making me a little nervous. Anyone else have any issues with ATE Super Blue Brake Fluid?

 

I usually suck out what I can with a pump and refill it. Not as good as a complete flush and bleed but works for me. I do the brakes that way too. What doesn't get replaced can just mix with the rest of the new fluid. I figure that by doing it more often (once a year) it says cleaner and gets rid of most of the moisture and I don't have to bleed and get it all over my Brembos. I use DOT3.

 

The most worn out fluid with the most crap and water in it is all the way down in the calipers themselves...just sucking the fluid out of the res. does virtually nothing.

 

It would seem that with the turbulant flow of the fluid it must get mixed. If it didn't then the fluid in the resivior would not look cloudy or contaminated. By replacing and I'm guessing at least 50% of the old fluid it has to help. I realize that is not as good as a complete draining and purging of the lines before refilling and bleeding but is much better than doing nothing at all. This obviously does not work if your changing the type of fluid your using.

 

http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wol...TSPECSHEET.pdf

Instructions on bleeding your clutch. It is copied from the FSM.
I just got a new tranny and I can not shift into first from a stop when the car is warm. I am going to flush it with some fresh motul.