Clutch Problems?
well as the title says i have a clutch problem referring to a rattling noise sometimes it does it and sometimes it doesn't but when i press the clutch in no noise and when i let it out makes a weird noise i was wondering if i should get a new clutch and how doing clutches last for?
that question gets asked daily... it's 100% normal and happens with any manual transmission with varying degrees....
the length of time a clutch lasts is extremely variable. You give me a brand new car and I can ruin the clutch without driving a mile. A clutch that sees a lot of highway driving will last longer than a clutch that sees only stop and go traffic. A clutch that is operated by someone who knows what they're doing will last longer than a clutch operated by an amateur who thinks they know what they're doing..... you get the idea. It depends entirely on usage.
the length of time a clutch lasts is extremely variable. You give me a brand new car and I can ruin the clutch without driving a mile. A clutch that sees a lot of highway driving will last longer than a clutch that sees only stop and go traffic. A clutch that is operated by someone who knows what they're doing will last longer than a clutch operated by an amateur who thinks they know what they're doing..... you get the idea. It depends entirely on usage.
Originally Posted by Brian T.
well as the title says i have a clutch problem referring to a rattling noise sometimes it does it and sometimes it doesn't but when i press the clutch in no noise and when i let it out makes a weird noise i was wondering if i should get a new clutch and how doing clutches last for?
very normal. what's not normal is after 20-25 minutes of driving, freeway or local, my clutch pedal to floor distance, not sure what that's called, is reduced by 90%.
–sorry to be off topic, does anyone's steering fluid bubble like mad when the car is warmed up and idling?
–sorry to be off topic, does anyone's steering fluid bubble like mad when the car is warmed up and idling?
Originally Posted by nismoZomsin
very normal. what's not normal is after 20-25 minutes of driving, freeway or local, my clutch pedal to floor distance, not sure what that's called, is reduced by 90%.
–sorry to be off topic, does anyone's steering fluid bubble like mad when the car is warmed up and idling?
–sorry to be off topic, does anyone's steering fluid bubble like mad when the car is warmed up and idling?
Check to make sure you have the correct fluid in there.
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Originally Posted by nismoZomsin
very normal. what's not normal is after 20-25 minutes of driving, freeway or local, my clutch pedal to floor distance, not sure what that's called, is reduced by 90%.
–sorry to be off topic, does anyone's steering fluid bubble like mad when the car is warmed up and idling?
–sorry to be off topic, does anyone's steering fluid bubble like mad when the car is warmed up and idling?
Of course they recommended I replace the clutch at the same time for $1100
because (they said) the free play was almost all gone and with the new slave the clutch would wear out faster. I told them I would hold off on that for the moment. I found Nissan OEM parts (friction disk, pressure plate and throw out bearing) on line for $275 + shipping and a good local shop quoted me $350 for labor.
That was several months ago and the clutch still not slipping yet...
Originally Posted by Silverstone-Z
Check to make sure you have the correct fluid in there.

Originally Posted by lbz
I had the same thing (clutch pedal distance after driving 30 minutes) and took to dealer. Clutch slave cylinder seals went bad. They replaced clutch slave cylinder under extended warranty. All fixed. Problem went away.
Of course they recommended I replace the clutch at the same time for $1100
because (they said) the free play was almost all gone and with the new slave the clutch would wear out faster. I told them I would hold off on that for the moment.
I found Nissan OEM parts (friction disk, pressure plate and throw out bearing) on line for $275 + shipping and a good local shop quoted me $350 for labor.
That was several months ago and the clutch still not slipping yet...
Of course they recommended I replace the clutch at the same time for $1100
because (they said) the free play was almost all gone and with the new slave the clutch would wear out faster. I told them I would hold off on that for the moment. I found Nissan OEM parts (friction disk, pressure plate and throw out bearing) on line for $275 + shipping and a good local shop quoted me $350 for labor.
That was several months ago and the clutch still not slipping yet...
considering my Z is still under warranty AND currently undergoing the OC testthanks for your guys' input, i really appreciate it
my friend kidna played around with the shift **** when the car was off, like he would switch gear w/o pressin on the clutch he said it doesnt do any damage i was kinda like unsure so does it mess anything up cuz i mean u are forcin to shift w/o pressin the lutch but the car wasnt on so i dont kno. i alwasy press down on the clutch even when car is off. can sum1 please tell me..
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