Fuel Sending Unit sensor replacement help
Fuel Sending Unit sensor replacement help
So I threw an SES light 2 days ago and took my car to the dealership. I missed my 36k warrenty period by 497 miles :-( so I have to pay out of pocket for the fix.
My car drives and acts fine, and my fuel readings are normal and accurate. However, the dealer says the SES is being set off by my fuel sending unit. To replace this including labor is 400 dollars. The part itself is $109. Dealer says it's a 3 hour job which is why labor is so expensive.
My question is, does anyone know if this is something i can replace or fix myself? I know there is access to the gas tank behind the plastic panel behind the drivers side but as far as where the fuel pump and sending unit is, i have no idea.
any info or help with this matter is greatly appreciated.
My car drives and acts fine, and my fuel readings are normal and accurate. However, the dealer says the SES is being set off by my fuel sending unit. To replace this including labor is 400 dollars. The part itself is $109. Dealer says it's a 3 hour job which is why labor is so expensive.
My question is, does anyone know if this is something i can replace or fix myself? I know there is access to the gas tank behind the plastic panel behind the drivers side but as far as where the fuel pump and sending unit is, i have no idea.
any info or help with this matter is greatly appreciated.
it would be easy to do. like 6 screws to remove the basket and then the swap. Are you 100% sure it the sending unit (what the CEL code?) bc if the dealer does the work and it doesnt fix it, they need to eat the costs and get it fixed.
according to the dealer the SES is coding a fuel pump sending unit sensor. I'll double check my service write up later.
Ummm they are the dealer. They charge 150 to check and clear a CEL code, what makes you think they'll charge you less for a fuel sending unit fix. All you do is hook up a reader to the OBD2 plug under the dash, read the code, clear it, your done. They wanted to charge 100 to reset the airbad code when I can do it myself after searching this forums (takes 20 seconds to fix). They have high labor cost plus they need to make money. That's why forums like this are awesome for us enthusiast.
They wanted to charge 700 for the flutter vavle fix (same location as the sending unit as you). I can do it for 15 plus my time (again there is a write up online).
They wanted to charge 700 for the flutter vavle fix (same location as the sending unit as you). I can do it for 15 plus my time (again there is a write up online).
Last edited by SoldzMyZ; Nov 12, 2008 at 02:53 PM.
its behind the passenger seat in the cubby lift all the stuff out of it its 6 8mm bolts and pull the whole thing out assuming its teh driver side fuel sending unit there are 2 saddle bag tank.
wow, if it's just that i wonder why they quoted it as a 3 hour job? I truely don't believe my service writer was taking advantage of me(he seems to be a legit guy), probably just following the labor book they go by.
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Ummm they are the dealer. They charge 150 to check and clear a CEL code, what makes you think they'll charge you less for a fuel sending unit fix. All you do is hook up a reader to the OBD2 plug under the dash, read the code, clear it, your done. They wanted to charge 100 to reset the airbad code when I can do it myself after searching this forums (takes 20 seconds to fix). They have high labor cost plus they need to make money. That's why forums like this are awesome for us enthusiast.
They wanted to charge 700 for the flutter vavle fix (same location as the sending unit as you). I can do it for 15 plus my time (again there is a write up online).
They wanted to charge 700 for the flutter vavle fix (same location as the sending unit as you). I can do it for 15 plus my time (again there is a write up online).
most likely the book or the Tech needing money. Alot of the time service writers dont know so they take the techs word. Its easy just be sure you get another O ring cant reuse the old ones.
you are absolutely right, the tech also mentioned i had to buy an O-ring. Thanks Jared, great help and info. I hope you don't mind if i PM you should i try to do this in the future myself. lol
Issues arrive at the 350z has two! one is a sender unit one is a sender unit encorporated in the fuel pump. The fuel pump is behind the sub, whip the sub out. The worst bit is depressurizing the fuel system. they use the comp to do it. Another way is to whip the fuel pump fuse out and start the car with no pressure (this is only needed to be done if it is the sender unit encorporated with the fuel pump). As said it probably too me about 1 hour to change both, and this included making two cups of tea!
Issues arrive at the 350z has two! one is a sender unit one is a sender unit encorporated in the fuel pump. The fuel pump is behind the sub, whip the sub out. The worst bit is depressurizing the fuel system. they use the comp to do it. Another way is to whip the fuel pump fuse out and start the car with no pressure (this is only needed to be done if it is the sender unit encorporated with the fuel pump). As said it probably too me about 1 hour to change both, and this included making two cups of tea!
anyhow brief update: Looks like my Nissan Service writer gave me some sincere advice by telling me to wait to see if it turns off. I started my car up this morning and as i was driving to work i noticed the SES light is no longer on!! I love it when problems go away by themselves. lol
umm i installed a turbo kit on a 98 eclipse gs nonturbo. That includes fuel lines, fuel pump, fuel system, oil system, gauges blah blah blah. I'm a home mechanic, fulltime grad student. i'm in no way a pro, i just research car issues and fix it myself...
here is the srs reset: https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance...bag-light.html
here is the srs reset: https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance...bag-light.html
Last edited by SoldzMyZ; Nov 13, 2008 at 11:16 PM.
I think i might have a similar problem. Hope i could do it on this thread. 
my gas gauge gives me incorect readings? i go to shell to put my 91 until it fills. the pump doesnt let me put anymore so it should be full. I turn on my car and the gauge reads it at quarter tank. 
i start driving the gauge goes to full, sometimes or just to half. also when i turn it on some times it just reads on empty. and thats just like 30 mins after i put gas. 
i go back to put gas supposably the z is on empty i put gas an its stops like at 13 dollars (91 in cali is at 2.03 
). to me i think it might be the same sensor having problems. i havent taken it to the steelership yet. i thought i would check wit you guys first any suggestions?
my gas gauge gives me incorect readings? i go to shell to put my 91 until it fills. the pump doesnt let me put anymore so it should be full. I turn on my car and the gauge reads it at quarter tank. i start driving the gauge goes to full, sometimes or just to half. also when i turn it on some times it just reads on empty. and thats just like 30 mins after i put gas. i go back to put gas supposably the z is on empty i put gas an its stops like at 13 dollars (91 in cali is at 2.03 ). to me i think it might be the same sensor having problems. i havent taken it to the steelership yet. i thought i would check wit you guys first any suggestions?
I think i might have a similar problem. Hope i could do it on this thread. my gas gauge gives me incorect readings? i go to shell to put my 91 until it fills. the pump doesnt let me put anymore so it should be full. I turn on my car and the gauge reads it at quarter tank. i start driving the gauge goes to full, sometimes or just to half. also when i turn it on some times it just reads on empty. and thats just like 30 mins after i put gas. i go back to put gas supposably the z is on empty i put gas an its stops like at 13 dollars (91 in cali is at 2.03 ). to me i think it might be the same sensor having problems. i havent taken it to the steelership yet. i thought i would check wit you guys first any suggestions?
my gas gauge gives me incorect readings? i go to shell to put my 91 until it fills. the pump doesnt let me put anymore so it should be full. I turn on my car and the gauge reads it at quarter tank. i start driving the gauge goes to full, sometimes or just to half. also when i turn it on some times it just reads on empty. and thats just like 30 mins after i put gas. i go back to put gas supposably the z is on empty i put gas an its stops like at 13 dollars (91 in cali is at 2.03 ). to me i think it might be the same sensor having problems. i havent taken it to the steelership yet. i thought i would check wit you guys first any suggestions?https://my350z.com/forum/6015910-post2.html
There are quite a few threads on this. Try searching for "gas guage", "fuel guage", etc... but I can explain the whole issue here:::
I have a 2003 and I've had the same problem. it is a "known issue" with the 350z. Most(meaning a good) dealerships will know as soon as you describe the problem to them. The problem is the fuel sending unit(s).
There are two in your tank, one is attached to the fuel pump assembly on one side, and then the other is a separate unit on the other side. I had to have both of mine replaced. They will run about $80 each + labor time (should be about 1-2 hours worth)+ diagnosis charge at the dealership
I was NOT in warranty, so I don't know if it will be covered on your vehicle, but just be prepared to spend the money when getting it fixed. It should cost you around the $300 mark.
[[I had some unexpected trouble with another issue with my car and ended up spending more due to labor.]]
Here is a breakdown:
The parts that I had replaced are in the red boxes:
(2) Fuel Sending Units: Part number 25060Y [and] 25060YA
(2) O-Rings: Part number 17342
If you have to have the actual fuel pump assembly replaced (pending that it is damaged) then look at spending quite a bit more. Luckily I did not.
I have a 2003 and I've had the same problem. it is a "known issue" with the 350z. Most(meaning a good) dealerships will know as soon as you describe the problem to them. The problem is the fuel sending unit(s).
There are two in your tank, one is attached to the fuel pump assembly on one side, and then the other is a separate unit on the other side. I had to have both of mine replaced. They will run about $80 each + labor time (should be about 1-2 hours worth)+ diagnosis charge at the dealership
I was NOT in warranty, so I don't know if it will be covered on your vehicle, but just be prepared to spend the money when getting it fixed. It should cost you around the $300 mark.
[[I had some unexpected trouble with another issue with my car and ended up spending more due to labor.]]
Here is a breakdown:
The parts that I had replaced are in the red boxes:
(2) Fuel Sending Units: Part number 25060Y [and] 25060YA
(2) O-Rings: Part number 17342
If you have to have the actual fuel pump assembly replaced (pending that it is damaged) then look at spending quite a bit more. Luckily I did not.
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