Z33 Clutch takeup
#24
JUL 04 TRACK Z
Way more play than my Type-R with ACT clutch. If you're complaining about 5 inches off floor the new WRX is like 8 inches (ridiculous)! I am concerned about this much freeplay in a sports car.
Way more play than my Type-R with ACT clutch. If you're complaining about 5 inches off floor the new WRX is like 8 inches (ridiculous)! I am concerned about this much freeplay in a sports car.
Last edited by NTRIGUE; 10-01-2003 at 02:26 AM.
#25
I feel the need to chime in on this one. Now I have only been driving for 40 years, well actually 39. I learned many years ago that clutch freeplay is measured from the top. You should have approximately one inch of freeplay from the "TOP" before you feel the clutch plate begin to disengage.
So sit on the ground outside the car and push on the clutch pedal with your hand. You should have 1 inch "Freeplay". This is exactly the way it works in my Z. Hope this helps.
Regards!
So sit on the ground outside the car and push on the clutch pedal with your hand. You should have 1 inch "Freeplay". This is exactly the way it works in my Z. Hope this helps.
Regards!
Last edited by devildogg; 09-30-2003 at 03:37 PM.
#27
I learned many years ago that clutch freeplay is measured from the top. You should have approximately one inch of freeplay from the "TOP" before you feel the clutch plate begin to disengage.
During an upshift the driver would press the clutch pedal from 8 inches off the floorboard until it made contact with the floor. The driver would engage the next gear and release the clutch werein it is desirable to engage in under 3 inches of travel; in actuality engagement occurs almost 8 inches off the floor. My Integra Type-R engages and disengages virtually by rocking on your heel, say 2 inches off the floor.
#28
Originally posted by yobri
Well Shortbus, pulpz2, do you guys have a clutch that has a high release engagement (sweet spot engages higher than normal, that is)?
Well Shortbus, pulpz2, do you guys have a clutch that has a high release engagement (sweet spot engages higher than normal, that is)?
It engages somewhere in the middle of the travel. It's not close to the floor but also does not engage within an inch from the top.
This clutch has longer travel/more tension than any other car I've ever driven. I don't think the take-up is a bad thing it just takes some getting used to. Personally, I'm used to it now and dont have much of a problem driving smoothly unless I'm not sittng squarely in the seat and have the proper foot/leg angle/leverage on the clutch.
#30
Originally posted by devildogg
This drawing will help explain what I was trying to say in my earlier post:
This drawing will help explain what I was trying to say in my earlier post:
Other sports cars (and economy cars) that I've driven require less travel from the floor to full clutch release... with the Z, I literally have to lift my leg as if I'm climbing stairs (rather than the accustomed slight lift). I've gotten used to it now, but when I drive other manuals, I can really distinguish the difference. My friend can also.
There might be a means of rectifying the high lift, but I want to research the procedure further before executing the change.
#31
Maybe you guys should try what the G35 people are doing?
http://forums.freshalloy.com/ubbthre...b=5&o=&fpart=1
http://forums.freshalloy.com/ubbthre...b=5&o=&fpart=1
#32
I agree
I agree. I want to understand this better so we can fix the right thing.
The adjustment described above will move the activation point up or down, but it will not (I think) change the pedal travel between fully engaged and fully disengaged.
I think some people on this thread want to raise/lower the point. I think other people (like me) want to shorten the travel, not just raise/lower it. These are two seperate adjustments.
In mechanical systems like this you can trade to get a shorter travel but the cost is a higher force.
The long travel in the Z is probably a compromise to meet some goal of "maximum pedal force". (ie small japanese women must be able to drive it)
The more beefy among us (myself included) would probably prefer a shorter throw with a high pedal force so we can just rock on our heel instead of lifting the whole leg. (To each his/her own.)
The most obvious way to accomplish this would be to lower the activation rod's connecting point on the pedal arm. However, there is no easy way to do that. (that I know of)
Does anyone have any ideas on how to reduce the travel?
The adjustment described above will move the activation point up or down, but it will not (I think) change the pedal travel between fully engaged and fully disengaged.
I think some people on this thread want to raise/lower the point. I think other people (like me) want to shorten the travel, not just raise/lower it. These are two seperate adjustments.
In mechanical systems like this you can trade to get a shorter travel but the cost is a higher force.
The long travel in the Z is probably a compromise to meet some goal of "maximum pedal force". (ie small japanese women must be able to drive it)
The more beefy among us (myself included) would probably prefer a shorter throw with a high pedal force so we can just rock on our heel instead of lifting the whole leg. (To each his/her own.)
The most obvious way to accomplish this would be to lower the activation rod's connecting point on the pedal arm. However, there is no easy way to do that. (that I know of)
Does anyone have any ideas on how to reduce the travel?
Originally posted by yobri
I don't think that what you are saying is disputable by anyone here on this thread, but it is the travel from bottom (floor) to top (full release) that seems odd.
Other sports cars (and economy cars) that I've driven require less travel from the floor to full clutch release... with the Z, I literally have to lift my leg as if I'm climbing stairs (rather than the accustomed slight lift). I've gotten used to it now, but when I drive other manuals, I can really distinguish the difference. My friend can also.
There might be a means of rectifying the high lift, but I want to research the procedure further before executing the change.
I don't think that what you are saying is disputable by anyone here on this thread, but it is the travel from bottom (floor) to top (full release) that seems odd.
Other sports cars (and economy cars) that I've driven require less travel from the floor to full clutch release... with the Z, I literally have to lift my leg as if I'm climbing stairs (rather than the accustomed slight lift). I've gotten used to it now, but when I drive other manuals, I can really distinguish the difference. My friend can also.
There might be a means of rectifying the high lift, but I want to research the procedure further before executing the change.
#33
interesting
Originally posted by afr0puff
Maybe you guys should try what the G35 people are doing?
http://forums.freshalloy.com/ubbthre...b=5&o=&fpart=1
Maybe you guys should try what the G35 people are doing?
http://forums.freshalloy.com/ubbthre...b=5&o=&fpart=1
--- onward ---
The fork is attached to the pedal arm using a pin through a hole in the pedal arm. Looking at the diagram (see above post) it looks like there is another hole lower on the pedal arm. Is this an alternative position at which the fork can be installed? If so it may be there to do exactly what we want, lower the pedal AND shorten the throw.
I don't have my Z yet, can someone check this hole out and see if it would hold the fork?
EDIT: I just looked at another manual drawing. The second hole I saw in the picture is used for a switch. Oh well, back to the drawing board.
Last edited by AndyB; 10-01-2003 at 11:02 AM.
#34
Re: interesting
Originally posted by AndyB
Interesting, they seem to be saying it lowers the pedal AND shortens the throw. That would be great if it was true. But looking at the diagram I suspect it simply lowers the pedal and makes them hit the floor sooner.
Interesting, they seem to be saying it lowers the pedal AND shortens the throw. That would be great if it was true. But looking at the diagram I suspect it simply lowers the pedal and makes them hit the floor sooner.
#35
Originally posted by afr0puff
Maybe you guys should try what the G35 people are doing?
http://forums.freshalloy.com/ubbthre...b=5&o=&fpart=1
Maybe you guys should try what the G35 people are doing?
http://forums.freshalloy.com/ubbthre...b=5&o=&fpart=1
#36
I went ahead and followed G35 suit. It is all identical down there; although quite difficult to use pliers with deadrest pedal installed.
Driving impressions:
3.5 turns = Drives safely as tight as you can get it. We are talking the moment you take weight off the floorboard there is engagement. No foul odors no tranny noise.
2 turns = I am quite impressed. This is now a short shifter. It feels very 'sports car'.
I can't figure out why a TRACK model came from NISSAN with the clutch adjusted as long as it could be but it was. We are talking going from 1mm of the screw sticking through the nut to 10 mm!
Final note:
Your Z is adjusted lazily at the factory, get under there and turn it into an impressive ride. Don't be in denial don't bring it to the dealer. You can shift faster in about 10 minutes!
Driving impressions:
3.5 turns = Drives safely as tight as you can get it. We are talking the moment you take weight off the floorboard there is engagement. No foul odors no tranny noise.
2 turns = I am quite impressed. This is now a short shifter. It feels very 'sports car'.
I can't figure out why a TRACK model came from NISSAN with the clutch adjusted as long as it could be but it was. We are talking going from 1mm of the screw sticking through the nut to 10 mm!
Final note:
Your Z is adjusted lazily at the factory, get under there and turn it into an impressive ride. Don't be in denial don't bring it to the dealer. You can shift faster in about 10 minutes!
#37
Originally posted by xcmpx
Your Z is adjusted lazily at the factory, get under there and turn it into an impressive ride. Don't be in denial don't bring it to the dealer. You can shift faster in about 10 minutes!
Your Z is adjusted lazily at the factory, get under there and turn it into an impressive ride. Don't be in denial don't bring it to the dealer. You can shift faster in about 10 minutes!
Please keep us posted about the performance of your clutch. Much appreciated.
#39
other adjustment
I noticed in the manual that asside from the fork adjustment (see above) there is an adjustable bump stop aove the pedal near the top. This seems to be tere to stop the pedal from coming to far up or to prevent it from rattling.
When you lower the fork/connector 2-3 turns does the pedal still hit this stop? Or will I need to lower this stop to?
(And if you lower the stop you might need to adjsut the switch to)
AndyB
When you lower the fork/connector 2-3 turns does the pedal still hit this stop? Or will I need to lower this stop to?
(And if you lower the stop you might need to adjsut the switch to)
AndyB
#40
The pedal comes into contact with two bump-stop/switches.
The first bump-stop closer to the firewall shows clutch is disengaged from flywheel (info cruise control needs to know) and the second (closer to driver) is to show clutch engagement and also uses a switch in the bump-stop for cruise control and more. The later switch will need to be adjusted according. You can actually here a 'click' when this switch is adjusted well. Simple 14mm needed to twist this bolt closer to the pedal.
I am very happy with this mod
The first bump-stop closer to the firewall shows clutch is disengaged from flywheel (info cruise control needs to know) and the second (closer to driver) is to show clutch engagement and also uses a switch in the bump-stop for cruise control and more. The later switch will need to be adjusted according. You can actually here a 'click' when this switch is adjusted well. Simple 14mm needed to twist this bolt closer to the pedal.
I am very happy with this mod