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Maintenance & Repair 350Z up keep and diagnosing/fixing problems

Help! | Car stall followed by something worse

Old Aug 3, 2009 | 06:48 PM
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Default Help! | Car stall followed by something worse

Hey everyone,

I've been a longtime member for many years, on a bit of a hiatus (my post count reset recently I guess). After 130k miles of joy with my 2003 350Z I had a very strange incident happen this past weekend.

My girlfriend was driving me home from a party, I had a bit much to drink and would rather her drive (she has an '05 Z 6 Spd). While on the highway I told her to give it some gas. We got up to about 130 when she commented that it felt as if the car had lost power and would not accel. She then let off the gas a bit and shifted into fifth. After I finished yelling "don't downshift!!" the car was simply coasting and would not accel, it had stalled.

We pulled over immediately. I smelled a strong clutch odor and the car would not start. There are no obvious signs (externally) of motor failure. It simply would not even try to start. Just a click and nothing.

I didn't have a ratchet to unplug the battery right there so we waited for a tow truck with the hazards on, by the time he had arrived (4 or so hours later), the hazards were dimmed and the battery seemed about gone.

Today I had the battery charged at Advanced auto parts (slow charge). I popped it in and it makes a little "unh" but no normal starting noise and the car does not even attempt to fire up. I was checking the alternator fuse and it fell under the battery tray, so I'm done for tonight. Don't have my full tool set here.

I'm just baffled as to what is wrong. My gf said the motor went to about 7k when she downshifted (above the 6600 RPM redline for 03 Zs). I don't think that is enough to cause engine failure. And I suspect the stall occurred before the downshift, during the "loss of power".

I have new belts (been on the car for about 2 months). And there is a slight exhaust leak from my test pipe. But nothing major, the car was running fine with the leak (weld on bracket broke).

Any help at all is welcome, I'm just baffled. What is a good course of action at this point? I'm going to check my fuses, pop out the alternator and have it checked at Advance (will a car start with a broken alternator if the battery is good?).



I wanna cry like a Big-Macless fat kid.

- Gus
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Old Aug 3, 2009 | 07:19 PM
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No idea dude, might be your engine.

Last edited by Sor; Aug 3, 2009 at 07:25 PM.
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Old Aug 3, 2009 | 07:23 PM
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Welcome. Got to the 130 MPH part and read no farther.
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Old Aug 3, 2009 | 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by AgentReaver
My girlfriend was driving me
Well, now that we've isolated the cause of the problem we can begin to work on a solution.

Originally Posted by AgentReaver
She then let off the gas a bit and shifted into fifth.
5th gear tops out at 142MPH, this would've done no damage to the engine. I'm guessing she downshifted from 5th to 4th (tops out at 112MPH)... or even worse 3rd (tops out at 88MPH... and sends you back to the future :P)

I've F'd up and "upshifted" from the top of 3rd to 2nd gear before, and this probably spiked the engine to 10k RPM or more, and my engine didn't blow. It was for only a split second though as I immediately clutched in and shifted to 4th.

Dropping the car into 4th (which is probably what she really did) at 130MPH is more stressful on the motor than 88MH in 2nd gear. How long did this chick keep it over-reved for? If she didn't react quickly, it could've caused some damage... obviously.

Last edited by mcarther101; Aug 3, 2009 at 08:13 PM.
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Old Aug 4, 2009 | 10:37 AM
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Are you throwing any codes?

Any lights on the dash?

mccarther could be right about her possibly shifting into 4th instead of 5th...
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Old Aug 4, 2009 | 03:13 PM
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To be honest I'm fairly certain it's an electrical problem. It exhibits all the symptoms of an electrical malfunction. We reviewed the scenario and she is 100% certain that she shifted into 5th, so no engine damage. I've asked my old race buddy and car shop owner, Sean, to shed some light on the situation and he believes the ECU is receiving inconsistent or insufficient power. His race prepped Accord had the same issue this past weekend. I will comb the car, check the grounds and remove the start and alternator. I'm reviewing the FSM and the diagrams are fairly poor of the starter positioning. Where is this little bugger at, and what is the easiest way to remove it?

Thanks.

Gus
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Old Aug 5, 2009 | 07:35 AM
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Update

Removed starter last night and going to take it to Advance to have it tested. Didn't take out the Alt yet as it has been raining on and off all day. :/ I tried to turn the crank pulley to see if it still spins, wont budge. I turned the pulley on my gf's Z to verify I was turning it correctly, spins without any major force.

Now I'm thinking the motor is seized. Why would the crank pulley not turn at all? :/

Any tips on online vendors to purchase internals from? I case I have to go that route.

P.S. Also, almost forgot. I drained the oil and didn't see anythign abnormal in terms of low oil, shavings, etc. Ran oil through a fine strainer and nothing.

Last edited by AgentReaver; Aug 5, 2009 at 07:36 AM.
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Old Aug 5, 2009 | 09:07 AM
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Talk to Sharif@Forged. He could be able to help you and get you parts if needed
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Old Aug 7, 2009 | 09:49 AM
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I was just thinking the same thing. I'll have to get in touch with Sharif. My mechanic has just informed me my motor is shot and advises a swap would be easier and less costly than a rebuild in terms of parts and labor. Where can I get built short blocks with a core exchange? I figure if I'm going to change it out, might as well upgrade to something built. :/

I'll keep looking, let me know if you have any ideas guys. Photos to come of damage.
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