throttle wheel position...
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took the gearing out for the throttle body for powdercoating, so the plastic wheel wouldnt melt...
does the main throttle wheel sit against the idle screw? or is there a gap?
when i release the wheel, the throttle valve itself is one a little bit too...is it suppose to be completely closed when you let go, or for idle reasons, does the valve stay open a hair?
not sure if the idle speed is correct, the powdering business said they did not touch it or adjust it, but i cant recall if the valve was 100% closed or not...any help is appreciated...
does the main throttle wheel sit against the idle screw? or is there a gap?
when i release the wheel, the throttle valve itself is one a little bit too...is it suppose to be completely closed when you let go, or for idle reasons, does the valve stay open a hair?
not sure if the idle speed is correct, the powdering business said they did not touch it or adjust it, but i cant recall if the valve was 100% closed or not...any help is appreciated...
Rule #1 - when you take something apart, you'd better have instructions on how to put it back together OR make notes/pictures of what you take apart.
That being said, it may not matter anyway as the Z is drive-by-wire and the ECU ultimately controls the position. There are several re-calibrations necessary when you do anything with the TB or TPS. Check this thread...
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-...procedure.html
That being said, it may not matter anyway as the Z is drive-by-wire and the ECU ultimately controls the position. There are several re-calibrations necessary when you do anything with the TB or TPS. Check this thread...
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-...procedure.html
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i will get a picture and post it here to help explain, tomorrow.
i will be running those porcedures, regardless. just want to make sure the physical spring loadng is correct. it appears the be the only way to do, but i didnt take it apart, so I am not sure. thats why im asking
thanks btw, Dave
i will be running those porcedures, regardless. just want to make sure the physical spring loadng is correct. it appears the be the only way to do, but i didnt take it apart, so I am not sure. thats why im asking
thanks btw, Dave
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okay, the car is back together. got the 5/16 motordyne with copper isothermal. installed all of that. no engine codes or issues pertaining to those things, that was a success haha
got about 4 codes initially, but cleared them with my scanner and since then, only one has reappeared: P0507 - Idle Air Control
tryed the whole sequence that you supplied, but during the dianostics, the SES fails to blink in accordance with the insturctions. meaning to me that it failing to reset/relearn what it needs to know. either i cant count seconds very well or the throttle position is messed up when i reinstalled the gearing...any thoughts?
got about 4 codes initially, but cleared them with my scanner and since then, only one has reappeared: P0507 - Idle Air Control
tryed the whole sequence that you supplied, but during the dianostics, the SES fails to blink in accordance with the insturctions. meaning to me that it failing to reset/relearn what it needs to know. either i cant count seconds very well or the throttle position is messed up when i reinstalled the gearing...any thoughts?
To tell you the truth - it's been many years since I had mine apart and looked at it. I suspect it doesn't close 100% as you have to have some air going through just for it to idle.
P0507 definitely indicates that you have to perform the Idle Air Volume Learning Sequence.
P0507 definitely indicates that you have to perform the Idle Air Volume Learning Sequence.
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hmmm, well i suck at it then. i will have to keep trying it till I get it.
do you agree with the majority of what I am reading pertaining to p0507, that manual movement of the valve (cleaning or whatever) will throw this code? and the only fix is a new throttle body? I find that very hard to believe...
do you agree with the majority of what I am reading pertaining to p0507, that manual movement of the valve (cleaning or whatever) will throw this code? and the only fix is a new throttle body? I find that very hard to believe...
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Op, as long as you didn't turn the key at any point when the TB was removed, you shouldn't have an issue as the computer would have never known it was gone (done thsi a half a dozen times, never had to do a re-learn). If you are off a few teeth, that's something completely different.
If you get frustrated, and have the money, i saw one for sale in the classifieds today for $70 i believe. May be worth it at this point. If you get yours fixed you can always sell it and make your money back!
FWIW i removed mine, prepped it well, painted it, and it looks as if it was powdercoated, took about an hour.
If you get frustrated, and have the money, i saw one for sale in the classifieds today for $70 i believe. May be worth it at this point. If you get yours fixed you can always sell it and make your money back!
FWIW i removed mine, prepped it well, painted it, and it looks as if it was powdercoated, took about an hour.
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mine was powdercoated. but when you say 'off by a couple of teeth', what do you mean? the motor itself if a free spinning motor, there is no specific spot where it starts and stops, it spins in circles. please explain haha
It was more of a figure of speech when i said that, sorry to confuse. I've never seen the inside of the TB so you have more experience then i do, lol.
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drilling rivets out wasn't exactly my forte, but i decided to go for it. it would look dumb not being powdercoated sitting against the plenum, which is a chrome silver. i think it turned out good. nothing goes with lemans orange though unless you get a perfect lemans orange powder match. my old car was easy, just red powder to match the dark blue car...




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it is fixed, finally learned how to count to 7 and got the light to start blinking. also reset my passenger side window. it works fine again. productive day
thank you all for the help.
i love the 5/16 spacer, very good mod!
thank you all for the help.i love the 5/16 spacer, very good mod!






