ECU Codes
I tried to look things up with the search option and im running out of time. The search option isnt working atm. I wired in a switch to turn on and off some LEDs in the car (small ammount) one position being dome lights (which i tied into the bcm wires) and other being on through the ignition (acc). After realizing i needed a relay, i installed the relay and leds work the way that they were supposed to. Left the car came back to leave and it wont start. The motor turns over but doesnt fire. Tried to do an ecu reset and nothing. Did some research and found a way to get some ecu codes, and i got a string of..
"141001121216101614100112121610161410011212161016"
Which if you arrange it so it makes sense --
"1001 1212 1610 1614" (repeating)
1610 and 1614 are both:
■P1610 NATS Malfunction
■P1614 NATS Malfunction
What do i do?
Thanks in advance.
"141001121216101614100112121610161410011212161016"
Which if you arrange it so it makes sense --
"1001 1212 1610 1614" (repeating)
1610 and 1614 are both:
■P1610 NATS Malfunction
■P1614 NATS Malfunction
What do i do?
Thanks in advance.
Last edited by Ognib6; Mar 17, 2010 at 04:13 PM.
https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance...d-generic.html
NATS = security system. If it don't work, you don't get the car to start.
NATS = security system. If it don't work, you don't get the car to start.
https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance...d-generic.html
NATS = security system. If it don't work, you don't get the car to start.
NATS = security system. If it don't work, you don't get the car to start.
Ive since removed all wiring that i have done to the vehicle, did i fry my ecm or bcm?
Last edited by Ognib6; Mar 17, 2010 at 05:11 PM. Reason: added next (last line)
Update:
Took it to the STEALERSHIP, and as the name says i think im getting screwed. I just wanted your guys opinion on what i should do. Heres the story:
When i took it there i told them what had happened in full. They said it was gonna be 97 dollars to trace wires to figure out what the problem is + whatever to fix the problem. Alright cool so i called them back the next day and they said that it was done but still up on the lift. I told them i'd be in a few hours later to pick it up. Went in and they told me that when they took it off the lift after they reprogramed the keys that the key didnt hold the programming. Then to tell me that the BCM is fried.. alright fine they ordered a new bcm for it which took 5 days to come in. charged me 400 dollars + reprograming fee which totalled up to 675 dollars. They got the BCM in and installed it programs the keys to the new code via new bcm and it didnt hold the programming again. They then said that this sensor in the ignition that transmits the data to the BCM is fried and that they are gonna over night it to get it in so i could have my vehicle for the weekend. Totalling to 998 dollars. Now my questions to you guys are this. Is the BCM really bad if the same problem was found after the new BCM was installed? If it wasn't the BCM am i responsible to pay for the new BCM and the labor time they put into the vehicle for the false diagnosis? What are my options? I obviously cant afford 998 dollars to get this fixed. Im so lost about how dealerships work does anyone have any GOOD advice for me? Thanks for your time.
Took it to the STEALERSHIP, and as the name says i think im getting screwed. I just wanted your guys opinion on what i should do. Heres the story:
When i took it there i told them what had happened in full. They said it was gonna be 97 dollars to trace wires to figure out what the problem is + whatever to fix the problem. Alright cool so i called them back the next day and they said that it was done but still up on the lift. I told them i'd be in a few hours later to pick it up. Went in and they told me that when they took it off the lift after they reprogramed the keys that the key didnt hold the programming. Then to tell me that the BCM is fried.. alright fine they ordered a new bcm for it which took 5 days to come in. charged me 400 dollars + reprograming fee which totalled up to 675 dollars. They got the BCM in and installed it programs the keys to the new code via new bcm and it didnt hold the programming again. They then said that this sensor in the ignition that transmits the data to the BCM is fried and that they are gonna over night it to get it in so i could have my vehicle for the weekend. Totalling to 998 dollars. Now my questions to you guys are this. Is the BCM really bad if the same problem was found after the new BCM was installed? If it wasn't the BCM am i responsible to pay for the new BCM and the labor time they put into the vehicle for the false diagnosis? What are my options? I obviously cant afford 998 dollars to get this fixed. Im so lost about how dealerships work does anyone have any GOOD advice for me? Thanks for your time.
Last edited by Ognib6; Mar 26, 2010 at 10:35 AM. Reason: grammar
Face it - you're screwed and you have no one to blame but yourself. Since none of us has access to the car nor the equipment to test it, there's really no way to verify the accuracy of the situation.
I can tell you this - the testing procedure that the tech is going through probably leads him down a path of determining if the major component (BCM) is working or not. If the diagnostics indicate that it is not working, then replacement would be in order. If the problem is not solved after replacement, then the diagnostics would take him down the path of testing ancillary systems and components (ignition switch sensor).
At $80 per hour, it doesn't take a whole lot of testing and debugging time to rack up $500 in charges. The problem with integrated and complicated electronics like our cars are packed with, you and I don't have the specialized diagnostic tools to figure any of this out ourselves. You're at the mercy of the dealership because they hold all the cards in this situation.
I can tell you this - the testing procedure that the tech is going through probably leads him down a path of determining if the major component (BCM) is working or not. If the diagnostics indicate that it is not working, then replacement would be in order. If the problem is not solved after replacement, then the diagnostics would take him down the path of testing ancillary systems and components (ignition switch sensor).
At $80 per hour, it doesn't take a whole lot of testing and debugging time to rack up $500 in charges. The problem with integrated and complicated electronics like our cars are packed with, you and I don't have the specialized diagnostic tools to figure any of this out ourselves. You're at the mercy of the dealership because they hold all the cards in this situation.
Your exactly right DavesZ it came out to be equal in parts and labor 500 in parts and 500 in labor. I did plead with them about the ammount and they actually gave me a discount (10% at that) which brought my bill down to 893.90. I would definatly have to say lesson learned dont mess with anything electronic. They said that there was no voltage coming out of the one portion of the BCM after they ran the diagnosis on it. Which would determine it to be bad regardless of the ignition switch sensor. After the good BCM went in they found that sensor bad, had it overnighted and installed next day. At least I had my car back on the last day of my vacation with no money left to spend haha. Thank you for your help man and i hope this thread will be of some use to someone else. ( CURSE THE CONSULT II SYSTEM ! )
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