tylerxfire

iTrader: (15)

nevermind, forgot that fuse box was tucked in there

tylerxfire

iTrader: (15)

fuel pump is in..what a ***** not getting gas inside the car..havent driven it yet because its pouring out..did start it and the high pitched whine isnt there anymore like the old pump...well see tomorrow

binder i know u have a G35 so it might be different, but heres my question:
when screwing the pump back in with the metal ring on the top of the assembly there are like 6 or so cant remember now 8mm bolts with little rubber washers on them, do they just screw and screw and screw or should they tighten right up and stop screwing in? Mine just kept turning and i want to make sure thats correct, it is tight and not moving or anything just seemed strange and i wasnt sure..

binder

iTrader: (8)

ours have the same bolts. There are 6 of them and they are m5 (5mm thread) not 8mm. the bolt head is 8mm, not the threads.

They are screwing into very thing threaded sheet metal. YOu have to be careful. It's very bad if they just spin. I didn't even use a wrench, i used small t-handle to screw them in and they snugged up just fine and stopped. I think even a 1/4" drive rachet would probably put too much force on them. I think they require somewhere like 14 INCH lbs of pressure.

If they are holding they might not be stripped...i definitely would never tighten them down that much anymore though.

tylerxfire

iTrader: (15)

yeah thats what i meant the bolt head is 8mm...so do u think i should get different ones to screw in or just leave it? i mean they are in and everything is screwed down and not moving but they do just keep spinning if i turn them, i must have over tightened them using a ratchet but its not like i can just pull them out..

Now on to this, after the new pump is in the car it is in the 15.5 area if i hit it around 2k instead of being in the 13's on the hit and stays in the low 15's until about 4k then comes back into the 14's and slowly into the 13's by redline..It is about 13.8 at redline but everything under the curve is lean...It actually feels stronger though and to have a constant pull and the ringing noise is not there that the other pump was making..

binder

iTrader: (8)

running n/a you should never be down in the 11's.

also, i didn't say "feel down on power". It will fall on it's face HARD. Like a fuel cut. Going from 13:1 to 16:1 is a huge cut in fuel and the car will pretty much stall and fall on it's face if it's a true fuel issue.

When i had a bad spot in my map it had a 16:1 glitch just on light throttle response it would litterally studder and stall until i passed it. It's very noticable.

tylerxfire

iTrader: (15)

no i know it should never be 11's n/a that was when i was boosted..

really the car feels fine so maybe it is a leak before the gauge causing issues to the gauge..but very weird how now after swapping the pump it is totally different and not in the 13's on the hit anymore, it just goes straight to 15's then gradually comes back to 13's by redline

tylerxfire

iTrader: (15)

with old pump it would go 13's on the hit until 3500 rpm and then straight to 15's and then gradually back to 14's to redline, now with the new pump it is straight to 15's on the hit then gradually goes 14s at around 4k and into the 13's by redline, maybe thats normal for a bolt on n/a car without being re-tuned but seems lean, like i said the car feels fine though so maybe its a leak before the gauge like i was saying? It doesnt fall on its face like you are saying

binder

iTrader: (8)

that's how it is supposed to be. and 13:1 at wot for an n/a car isn't lean at all.

tylerxfire

iTrader: (15)

so u think thats how it should be then? like i said about 15.5-15.8 on the hit then it will hold in the 15's until about 4k and then gradually start getting richer and into the 14's and into the high 13's by redline...

It is def. much different than it was with the old pump...im thinking about calling performance motorsports on monday and seeing what they have to say about it as they have probably had a bunch of n/a bolt on z's untuned on the dyno to compare, plus i want to see how much they could set me up with an uprev tune

binder

iTrader: (8)

it sounds normal to me.

it will always start leaner then the a/f should drop as the rpms go up. more engine output requires more fuel.

tylerxfire

iTrader: (15)

i appreciate all your feedback man, seems as though it is where it should be then now after swapping the pumps...i plan to put the wideband sensor in my other side bung when i get home just to see what it will read on that side for the hell of it and like i said ill call performance motorsports tomorrow to see what they have to say...

tylerxfire

iTrader: (15)

lol..well all that was a waste of time it seems...i swapped the gauge to the other side and a/f is right in the 13's ...i searched and found a small leak at the top where the test pipe bolts to the manifold...it is small and i dont feel anything while its idling but when i get on it it must open up slightly

...guess well see if there is truly a leak tomorrow when i get to it but things are lookin up

binder

iTrader: (8)

driver side usually runs leaner anyways but shouldn't be the difference of 13:1 or 15:1

the fact that the pump you had in there made more noise is plenty enough to change it out. So it's not like you changed it for nothing.

tylerxfire

iTrader: (15)

after testing both sides a few times they are pretty similar and like i said i have a small leak to make it read a little leaner, even on pass. side if i lug it down and get on it it goes high 14's then comes back into the 13's as the rpm's rise...i think everything is fine now..and yes no more ringing from the pump and i def. think the pump helped, it did feel like it held back before and now pulls nice..

binder

iTrader: (8)

ya, the crack is probably your a/f gauge issue but if the pump was noisy then it was probably on its way out.

that's what you get for being an n/a sissy

tylerxfire

iTrader: (15)

^^lol, i know it is very sissy now...its temporary though

binder

iTrader: (8)

i'll sell you my vortech kit if you want to be back in the game

tylerxfire

iTrader: (15)

^^lol, yeah yeah..when im back in the game it will be more like 20-25psi on twins or i may end up selling the z and try and get into a c6 Zo6 once im in my new house and my wedding is over and have some cash flow again