that is the slave. that would be the cheaper and easier of the two. if you do the slave you might as well do the master too just because sometimes its hard to tell which one is causing problems. you can pick both of them up at your local auto parts store. JUST MAKE SURE YOU KNOW HOW TO BLEED THE CLUTCH. it can be a pain if you dont do it right.

 

Thanks a lot for the information. I think I'm going to replace the clutch line with a stainless steel one, replace slave and master cylinder along with bleeding and changing the fluid with more quality fluid. Hopefully this problem is resolved after this.

 

I have a 2006 model that was experiencing the same problem...Hot weather, in traffic and the clutch pedal would go soft, not returning fully. The clutch would disengage, but the pedal was almost to the floor. By chance, I had just installed a brand new clutch and flywheel (Speciality Z clutch with RPS flywheel), so I thought I might be fighting a couple of demons.

First, I tried the least expensive route by flushing with new fluid and bleeding. Thought I had the problem solved but the next very hot day, same issue.

I purchased a new stainless steel braided line and Motul RBF 600, changed the line and flushed/bled with Motul and added some heat protection (DEI Thermal Insulation) to the steel line that the flex line attaches to. Also, the OE rubber flex line is covered from the factory with heat insulation. I covered the new stainless line with the OE insulation.

The steel clutch line runs along the subchassis and the driver's side catalytic converter is literally inches away. I have high flow cats, so there is no heat shielding whatsoever installed on the converter. Between the engine, road and exhaust, the clutch line is exposed to tremendous heat. High heat will result in fluid vaporization.

To date, I haven't experienced the problem again.

PS....If anyone needs a slave cylinder for a 2006, I have a brand new OEM available for $50.....

 

Thanks for your analysis. I really think I'm going to do the stainless steel clutch line and bleed/flush the fluid thats in there now and replace with Motul RBF 600. I honestly think this will work and it is a heat related problem. I just drove the car around 5 minutes ago when it wasn't as hot and the clutch worked perfectly for 40 minutes straight.

 

that should fix the problem, as long as your clutch is grabbing fine when you accelerate there's not really anything else it could be.

 

Yeah i have TestPipes so im putting off some nice heat lol.. hopefully the SS line works if not ill get both cylinders replaced and call it a day..

 

Remember that the SS line doesn't provide any insulation, you have to wrap that rascal or the problem will persist.

 

basic heat wrap should take care of the job right?
Thanks for adding that.. ill have the guy do that when he installs my clutch and all next week

 

You can just re-use the OE heat insulation that was covering the rubber flex line if it's good condition. Mine was still like new.....

 

I re-used my heat wrap and I still have the problem. I dunno if I should just replace the slave or not.
The problem didnt come back until I went to the track.

 

did some search and found this thread. my clutch was doing the same thing today. i press the pedal and it comes right up, then gets stuck at the last 2". it was hot out and i was doing alot of city driving. anyone come up with the solution to this problem? just got a 06 a week ago. thanks.

 

Motul fluid and a ss line should fix you up.