Alright you've all heard it. When its a hot day outside and you press the clutch to the floor to shift, when it is coming up, it gets "stuck" about halfway coming up. Where I have to flip it up to where its supposed to be with my foot. It is really getting annoying to deal with this, I just want to find a solution.

From what I understand it is because the fluid is getting too hot and the stock clutch line is making it feel soft/gummy and making it "stick" when coming back up to its original position.

My car is a 2006 350z. Car has 42k. I've searched. There is either 2 ways to solve this problem. There doesn't seem to be a solid answer to the common clutch sticking problem.

1. Get a braided clutch line and high end clutch fluid, such as Motul DOT 5.1. With flushing the old clutch fluid.

2. Replace master and slave cylinder.

Thinking about getting this clutch line.
http://www.forgedperformance.com/sto...cat=329&page=1

What do you guys believe it is, I'm leaning towards option number 1.

Thanks in advance,
Dan

 

Replace your fluid with a dot 3 or 4 brake fluid. I bought valvoline for my 06 and have the factory brake lines and it has been cured.

 

Thanks man, I think what i'm going to do is flush the fluid and replace with a dot 4 like you suggested and replacing the clutch line with a stainless steel one because I found a good deal at Z1auto only 34 shipped.

 

You can also adjust the rod behind the the clutch pedal... It's what actualy pushes into the master cylinder... I have done this on a few cars with the same issue...
If your pedal is sticking adjust the rod out from the pedal, so I belive it would be clock wise... Also don't go to much about one to two full turns start with one...
Hope that helps...... Also look up adjust clutch pedal in the service manual pdf files....

 

Doubt if this is a heat related problem. If true this would be a annual summer problem in Arizona. It is not.

Suspect problems with slave cylinder.

 

Really, it seems to act up every time it gets hot out (above 98 or so) and after about 20 minutes or so of driving. It never really has a problem when it is not extremely hot out.

 

How much would the slave cylinder cost to replace?

 

In my searches I came across this post. Why is a SS clutch line beneficial?

I feel as though this described my situation pretty well. And this is the first step to figuring out the problem. I'll replace the SS clutch line, bleed out the system, flush the system, and then refill with Motul Dot 4

 

New fluid and SS line normally help soft or spongy pedal. Old fluid absorbs water and becomes compressible, old rubber lines can expand allowing compression of more fluid. The problem with those statements is that they really apply to brakes. There's not that much fluid and lines in the clutch system for it to be noticable.

It's my understanding that guys with FI systems have that problem because of the extra heat being generated. The clutch line is not far from the driver side cat so it makes it easy for the fluid to boil and you lose clutch function. The symptom is that the clutch won't disengage, not that the pedal sticks.

You can actually make the problem worse by replacing the line with an SS line, and not putting the insulation shield back on the new line. SS lines don't repel heat, they can absorb it just like the rubber OEM line does.

 

i have an 06 with the same exact miles and after 20min of driving mine starts sticking. Would a master and slave cylinder be covered under warranty?

 

I have the same issue. I replaced the line and fluid. Still there.
It is the slave like davidv said. Though I do think it is heat related Dave.

 

anyone think if i can get the dealer to replace my slave cylinder they would do my clutch and all for free while they replace that? I already purchased clutch and flywheel and SS lines.

 

No def not. The slave cylinder is under the hood, it wouldnt require removing the tranny to replace. Maybe the clutch line but I doubt that too.

 

i just looked around for prices on both master and slave and both together would only be $140 for OEM.. but idk what the labor hours are like for both parts

 

it only takes about 10 minutes to change the slave cylinder,thats one of the most easy things you can do on the car, the master is a little harder just because its tucked in there and you have to disconnect it from your pedal but both are very very easy to do. just make sure you know how to bleed the clutch line after the install. the slave will be stuck in the side of the bell housing on the tranny so you dont even have to open the hood to change it. and the master is the lower one of the fill spots under you brake fluid cover, it's the one that goes to your clutch pedal. i would change the fluid and both the cylinders because it is so cheap and easy and the problem should go away. i honestly wouldn't worry about the clutch line

 

About how long of a job would both take if done at the same time? 2-3hrs?
Might get both replaced before winter

 

I'd love it to be covered under the powertrain warranty. But I doubt it. I'll just replace the SS line and Fluid with higher fluid in a week or so and update this thread with what happens. I'd rather do the smaller things first.

 

Is this the product that needs replacing or is there something else?

http://www.courtesyparts.com/30620-c...tml?cPath=714&

 

I'm not doubting it's heat related at all. Half the problems that show up in an car are usually made worse once it gets cold or hot. If the master or slave have some clearance, wear or tolerance issues, certainly heat would affect them causing binding that "sticks" the clutch pedal.

 

for someone that has no clue and has never done one it might take 2-3hrs for both. ive done many and on many different cars and did my master in about half an hour. the slave took less than that.