PSebagh

Hey everyone,

So last night while out and about my Z decided not to start. Turn the key and you can hear it cranking but just wouldn't turn over. After a couple tries it finally did and I continued with my night. Later on it wouldn't turn over again. When it would crank it sounded strong so I didn't think it was a battery problem. So I left the car for a little while and tried again. Still wouldn't turn over. Finally I put it in nuteral and rolled it back an inch and it started right up. What could possibly be wrong with my Z?

Notes:
- Happened 2 days earlier but started up a minute later
- Both days had different weather, 2 days earlier was day time and warm, last night was night time and cold.
- Never had any problem like this in the past
- About 110,000 miles on it.

If you need any other info let me know.

Since it's over 100,000 miles I'm outa warrenty and I'm low on cash till my next paycheck. Any DIY ideas would be awesome.

Thanks Everyone,

I love my Z.

deezz

iTrader: (7)

This happened to me once. It's was my ignition key. When the car doesn't turn over, look to see if the red security light on the dash is on. If it's on, the key transponder is going bad. What I do is take the key out of the iginition and put it back in. Then turn key to ACC position, if the light goes off, the car starts right up. If it is still on, I have to take the key out of the ignition and try again.

Happens every so often, but not enough for me to get a new key.

G/L

SnyzzleZ

iTrader: (6)

possibly feul pump.

PSebagh

Thanks Deezz,

I just tried and noticed the red light, I also can hear a low tone buzzer kind of sound from under the hood. I tried using my other set of keys but still nothing. Anyone have a fix for this, if it happen every once and a while I'd be okay with it too but right now it doesn't matter how many times I try it won't start.

PSebagh

Sny,

How would I check if it is the fuel pump.

PSebagh

Alright so it's looking like it may be a ignition key issue. I tried and tried and finally the security light went off when in the ON position and it started. I shut the engine off and kept the key in the ON position and it started again, tried one more time and it started. Then I took the key out, back in and ON position, red light lit up and car didn't start.

I tried a couple a couple times, same results. If the security light is off while in the ON position the car will start. If the security light is on while in the ON position the car won't start. Problem now is how do I fix it and why did the last time I tried the light was on and the car started.

Thank you everyone for you help,

Any suggestions on fixes would be a huge help.

As for the fuel pump, I checked and I can hear the pump start up when I'm in the ON position so there may be a pressure problem but I dont have the tools to check.

raycs7

iTrader: (42)

I think I may have a NATS problem also but I temporarily parked that Z.
It will not start at all.

Ix350xI

happen to me too but all i had to do was tighten the bolts holding the wires to my battery

PSebagh

For 24 hours its been working so thank you everyone for your help hopefully it stays fixed.

my friend

iTrader: (1)

so how did you fix this problem?

jfern350z

I BEEN HAVING SAME PROBLEM. Every so often it would take my car 3 or 4 cranks to start up and now it just took a **** on me and wont start at tall no more. cranks but no start up. HELP!!!

sickficious

my car does same think took and had it scanned at autozone and they said it needs bank 1 cam sensor or w.e its called sry its late im exhausted lol but anyhow im 95% sure thats ur issue as it seems alot of them go bad from the reading ive been doing....also seems like you have to get nisssans sensor other ppl that got it from local store advanced auto,oriellys,napa they replaced them and car wouldnt start at all they took sensor back got nissans and it worked....as soon as i get sum cash im doing brakes,that sensor i feel ya ! lol

Hoezay1901

This happen to me about a week ago I would get into my car try to start it and
The light would come on and just hear it click it would start if I pushed started it but I would start if I used jumpers turned out it was my starter that went bad quick fox if you have a lift

bjr

If it is the NATS system then you may never find an answer. Mine used to do this only 1 or 2 times a year. Then out of nowhere 2 years ago it starts doing it every day. It got to the point that I didn't know what I was doing and tried one day to unsuccessfully start it in the key fail mode and locked that key out of the system. While my dealer had the car that's when I finally did all of the research and understood the complexity of this problem with other members. My dealer had my car many times and agreed there was a problem but never could do anything about it. They had to guess it was one of three parts based on the NATS computer codes being logged.
If you search NATS you will find at least a few big threads on people replacing multiple parts with seemingly good results up front but the problem just comes back. Not one person I came accross had a verified solution.
I searched on here for weeks and weeks keeping an eye on it and when it started to make my head ache I just gave up. I carry two keys with me at all times just in case and recommend reading the other posts to find out the signs of what it does and the "rules" about how many times you can try and the 2 or 3 tricks everyone has to get it to fire up the next couple of times you try. This sounds like a lot but it does just fine 99% of the time and that one time is not frustrating because you have knowledge.
One of the biggest ones is if it doesn't start, notice the red light right away and recognize why it didn't start. Then take the key out, put it back in and try again. But only go to the ON position and wait 3 seconds to see if the light comes on BEFORE you go to the cranking position because you won't be logging a try to start in the computer and can start over. If you crank multiple times and each one has a red light the computer blocks that key out of the database for security and there is no way it will ever work again.
Depending on your feelings you could either
-spend the money on every part of the NATS system so nothing is left to question,
-do the same with dealer help (mine actually said they would give me credit back for any parts they misdiagnosed but it became too time consuming. They wouldn't replace one of the two parts they had ordered until it messed up in their possesion again. After three days of no problems I said give me my car back!),
-learn to live with it and learn the helpful tips (someday something will totally fail and you'll finally know what to replace). I recommend carrying two keys.
- sell the car like a few people have ( I wouldn't)
- have a tuner disable NATS ( I think I understand correctly this is a possibility?)

Of course this all depends on your particular frequency of this problem and your car's reaction to you patiently trying to get it to start. I guess if you are lucky it may deteriorate quickly leaving an obvious part to replace instead of guessing.
This NATS problem is also somewhat problematic in other Nissan models and every car manufacturer has some complaints about some security system over the years.

djseanneimo

PROBLEM IN STEERING WHEEL LOCK (LOCK PIN NOT DISENGAGING)

STEPS TO TAKE :

TAKE KEY OUT
TURN STEERING WHEEL IN LOCK POSITION (wiggle)
PLACE KEY IN IGNITION
UNLOCK STEERING WHEEL
START CAR
WORKS EVERYTIME

AT ONE POINT IN TIME THIS WAS A RECALL for certain VINS

Note: If red theft light (on driver side dash) is on solid. It will never start