devnull420

So I followed the directions on here to run new speaker wire, which involved making a hole in the wiring harness that goes into the door. I was careful not to bend any pins, but now I can only get my driver side window to work. I've tried taking it apart and putting it back together a couple of times, if I don't get it just right even my driver side window won't work. Additionally, my door lock buttons and side mirror controls don't work.

Is there some trick to getting it all back together? I've realized you need to pull the grey lever down until it clicks, push the outside (from the door) connector into the hole in the door jam, then push the inside (white) connector on, then push the grey lever up. When I do that just right, it feels like they're stuck in the door better (for lack of a better description), but still only my driver side window works.

I tried checking the BCM fuse right near the battery, it looks fine. Anyone else got any ideas of how to diagnose it? I was thinking of trying to check the wires for continuity but it's a huge pain in the *** due to the way it's set up, unless I checked where they connect to the switches in the door.

Also, I always kept the battery disconnect while working on everything. Of course southern california has had incredible amounts of rain for the past week, and I have my passenger side window down a couple inches.

devnull420

Well since no one can think of anything, here are my next possible steps:

1) Check all the fuses in the kick panel - I don't know what fuse goes to what, but I might as well pull them all and see if any are popped. I'm guessing the BCM can't be fried because my trunk release still works and my driver side mirror works.

2) Disconnect the controls from the wire harness in the door, and do a continuity check for each pin on the door harness and the inside white harness in the kick panel. This should let me know if there are any connections that are messed up either where the kick panel harness and the outside harness meet in the door jam, or else if I ****ed up one of the wires trying to route the speaker wire through that black hose that goes from the door jam to inside the door.

Anyone know the pinouts for these harnesses? Is there a better way to diagnose this? I'm open to any suggestions as I never work on the electrical stuff on the car.

IDrm350

iTrader: (8)

I had this problem. It turned out that my speaker wire was pinched between the two halves of the molex plug which kept all of the pins from making contact. Make sure that the hole in the plug is large enough that the wire can slide freely. That way you know that the wire is not pinched inside the plug.

devnull420

Yeah I actually went ahead and removed the speaker wire, just to see if that was what was causing the problem, but it didn't help.

nismo542

iTrader: (2)

have you tried the window motor regulator reset procedure. seems like this happenned when i did my door speakers, but that was a while back.

marcuz

iTrader: (8)

man i hope somebody has some good insite on this subject...im having the exact same issue and yet to figure out what the issue might be...

marcuz

iTrader: (8)

any updates?

devnull420

Well I went on vacation and just now started messing with it today. I thought maybe the two connectors that join in the door frame were the problem, but after re-trying a couple times I still have the same problem. The first I did it my driver's side window stopped working, but re-trying it fixed that.

Since I had pushed the soldering iron through from the back of the connector, I thought maybe the little bits of melted plastic were keeping it from connecting all the way, so I carefully scraped them all off with a sharp knife. It didn't seem to make any difference though.

Next steps will be trying to play with the multimeter, I'm going to take out the window/door/side view mirror switches from the driver's side door, and check for continuity between the wires there and the inside connector in the kick panel. I would have done that today but my probes on my multimeter are too thick for the same female connectors (however I did successfully determine which pins the speaker wires are coming in from, so at least I can just re-use the stock wires and get sound).

devnull420

Ok, finally figured this one out - the connector inside needs to be actually pushed out through the hole in the body. You have to get the top of the connector to push out of the body first, then the sheet metal of the body will fit in a notch at the top. The bottom has a metal spring-like tab that will allow to fit out and then lock into place. Once this is done it's no problem to get the connectors to connect all the way. Now all my windows / side view mirrors / etc work, and I finally have sound again.