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Murano owner needs help with VQ35DE detonation

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Old 03-10-2011, 11:54 AM
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Shertown Turbo
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What car are you going to trade it in on?
Old 03-17-2011, 11:48 AM
  #22  
tubbedz
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Default The Only Fix I Found....

Monty2003

I had the same issue with a VQ35DE engine. This is what I posted at another forum:

A friend with a 2004 Murano also has pinging issues. It only pings at part-throttle and only with the engine fully warmed up. Here are some things we have tried and has not solved the issue. Again, we have no codes stored whatsover.

We replaced with new: MAF $500, OEM NGK Plugs PLFR5A-11 $60, cleaned Throttle Body and Reset computer, Reset idle learning, Reset throttle, 2- Fuel pressure regulators $100 + $90, Coolant $10, Air filter $10, Oil change $50, full tank of Union 76 100-Octane unleaded, Redline fuel injection cleaner, Seafoam flush, Knock Sensor $25, changed CVT transmission oil $20/quart, had the Nissan dealer re-flash the computer $300, PCV valve $10, upper intake gasket $10, lower intake gasket $25, coolant temperature sensor $30, thermostat $40. @$$%!

Things I'm considering: replacing all the spark plugs with one step colder NGK PLFR6A-11. (did not fix issue) Also I questioned the ignition coils, but I have no misfire codes. So I took a coil apart. I noticed that in each coil boot there is a spring that transfers voltage to the plug. Wound in the spring is a resistor to reduce RF Interference. Maybe this resistor heats and fails?? So I will replace all the boots and resistors with NGW 58913. Will follow up later....(did not fix issue)

Any Nissan ECM specialists on here!!! Here is what I have read/heard from reading automotive manuals, talking to mechanics and racing. When the engine is cold, the ECM is in a specific "map" where extra fuel is introduced. This raises the engine idle during the "warm up" period. Also, several sensors are not active until fully heated, probably retarding the ignition timing. Some of theses sensors, are the MAF and the Oxygen sensors. There maybe others. These sensors require intense heat to work and at operating temperature they probably change the ECM "map" to decrease the extra fuel and fine tune or increase the timing.

Also, the Coolant Thermostat is closed when cold and opens when the engine is "warmed up". The warmed coolant triggers the "coolant temp sensor", which also changes the fuel/timing "map".

Furthermore, ignition coils work fine when they are "cool", but once introduced to extreme heat they tend to fail. Most coils have a primary and secondary winding where the secondary winding cannot be physically tested. A coil will work fine with just the primary winding and you will never know the secondary is not working until the coil completely fails and you get misfires.

All of these Sensors/Triggers could probably be a factor why the engine does not ping when cold and will not ever trigger a code until the Sensor/Trigger has completely failed and becomes non-operational.

Once the engine is "warmed up" all of the sensors become active and the extra fuel is not needed. These sensors(MAF, thermostat, Oxygen Sensor) all become fully heated and functioning. Except the ignition coil, as it does not like heat. Any one of these sensors could be faulty and causing the pinging when the engine is warmed and at operating temperature.

Other factors regarding a constant "pinging" that does not involve cold or warm engine temperatures are mechanical failure. Such as cracked heads/block, blown head gasket, piston ring failure, leaking valve seals, etc...

Because my friend's vehicle does not ping when cold I tend to believe that it is not a mechanical issue with the engine but instead a Sensor or the ECM is at fault. Also when in Neutral there is no pinging. Also, in Drive, if the rpm's are increased above the pinging, the pinging disappears. What mode or "map" does the ECM switch to when going from Neutral to Drive??? Is it variable, does it depend upon engine load/engine vacuum???

These are some of my findings so far. If others have gone as in depth as I have and replaced/tested any/all sensors/ECM on their Murano or VQ35DE, please include more info to this thread so we can solve this. I have also noticed that the same issues are also related to Altima's and Maxima's.

Please help find a cure!!!



THE ONLY FIX I FOUND !!!!!


(1)Retard timing with "Nissan Consult" at stealership

(2)Retard timing with "blaZt II, OBDII" = tuning and diagnostic software that is similar to Consult that allows monitoring of all engine sensors and user adjustable timing and fuel curves, read about it at, www.blazt.biz

(3)Retard timing with "FTC1-103" = a piggyback ECM controller that retards timing and modifies the fuel curves for VQ35DE engines, read about it at, www.splitsec.com
Old 08-08-2011, 08:33 AM
  #23  
monty2003
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Just wanted to close down this thread. I never found a solution to my problem and the apathy I experienced at several dealership service departments was disappointing.

I traded it in on a 2008 Mazda CX9 grand touring. It's a nice car and while significantly larger than the 2003 Murano I had, it drives much more like a car. I guess that's the zoom zoom.

Tubbedz - sounds like you know your stuff. When I tried bringing up the subjects you mentioned with the service techs at the dealerships, their eyes glazed over..... no codes = no problems and unless I was paying $100/hour I wasn't going to waste any more of their time. Hope you find a solution.

So - I probably ditched the car over a $50 part somewhere but probably would have dropped a few thousand more finding that part.

Thanks for the help guys.
Brian
Old 06-16-2021, 11:23 AM
  #24  
01pathguy
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Originally Posted by 0jiggy0
Crazy issue your having. I'm still leaning to clogged cats. Do you have an infared thermometer? If you power brake it does it happen? I forget but I think if the cats get over 4-500 degrees there's a problem. Also I wonder what the fuel pump is doing while this happens.
Im currently having this problem in my 2001 pathfinder with the vq35de and standard. It does not do it when slowing down using the motor
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