Bent or twisted upper control arm, but the compression arm in common.

 

well i guess we've narrowed it down to the compression arm or the control arm. I thinking of comparing the two to the other side, but what should i use? (a measuring tape, cardboard, and or etc)

 

How fas off was caster?

Also the upper control arm is easy to remove, just pull both and line them up. Compression arm is a bit harder, and if i were to remove them i would install SPL compression arm bushings while they are out.

 

im thinking about taking them off tomorrow. i think the caster was off like 2 degress

 

How much play left to right? There should be none really... compare to other side of car. Make sure your feeling actual looseness in how the wheel is mounted and not just the steering moving.

If caster is off it could be caused by upper control arm, but there is so little room for it to move up in the wheel well that if it is bent or damaged you would probably get a lot of metal on metal rubbing or clunking sounds. Use a floor jack to jack the suspension up and see how it fits into the wheel well. Be careful as if you lift too high you'll lift the car off its jack stands. Don't get crazy with the lifting of the suspension, just do it enough to see how that upper control arm is aligning in the wheel well.

Also the lower control arm could affect it, or it is not seated properly in your front cross member, or the crossmember is bent or damaged.

Then your compression arm, the curved on at the bottom could also cause the caster to be off.

Finally check all your balljoints and make sure they aren't busted, bent, or really loose.

As for measuring that is kinda difficult. Maybe measure the distance between its balljoints at each end. Also you might check the steel mounting plate that the compression arm connects to behind the rear of the wheel well. It could of been pushed back or bent, pulling your compression arm rearward.

 

Okay so I checked the ball joints they seem to be okay, the steering play was the actual steering not any play, haha, woops. And Ive decided just to take it in to the dealership to see what's wrong because it's just too hard to figure exactly what's wrong

 

The compression rod with that long curve is the most likely part to be bent, and that would throw the caster off.

The right and left parts are probably mirror images of each other, so a carefully-cut cardboard template would tell you if it's bent.

 

if the black steel subframe is still straight then it could have shifted. Look at the subframe where it bolts to the chassis with the four bolts. check that the distance from the edge of the subframe to the chassis rail is equal on both sides. The subframe from memory has play in the bolt holes so if it has shifted it would explaing why your camber is also off.

For example if you hit the left wheel then there would be less camber on the left and more camber on the right.

 

Good call... definitely something to check.

Sounds like you've already decided to take it to a dealership to have them look. Good luck, maybe just get them to tell you what the problem. I've had them refuse to look at it unless I said I would pay to have it fixed there. Some places have jerks working there so if the one you take it to doesn't cooperate take it somewhere else. It's still driving so no need to panic and try to rush the repair process.

 

^dang that sucks, but the guy at the dealership told me that they would check it out and if they put it on the alignment machine they will charge me 59.99 and if i do decide to let them fix it, they'd waive that charge and only charge the parts and labor. im probably just gonn find out what it is and then pay them the 59.99 and do the rest myself but we'll see monday... stay tuned

 

Any news?

 

oh yeah sorry forgot to post. It turns out i bent four things, says the dealer...
-Spindle Knuckle
-Lower Control Arm
-Compression Arm
-Upper Control Arm
i already bought the knuckle going to see if that corrects most of the problem, because im low on funds and it doesn't really need to be fixed yet. I just drive to school and back and it drives pretty much normal.

 

Would like to know how they come to that conclusion. I'm surprised they didn't tell u to buy a new car.

 

Yeah you and me Both, hope fully I can narrow it down with the new knuckle, maybe something won't fit right and that'll be the only thing wrong. Let's hope

 

Before you get it fixed play it like this. They are the experts and payed them $$$ to isolate the components related to bad alignement. In the event that the parts are replaced and the issue exists who is liable for the parts and labour?

My concern as expressed by others is that the alloy components usually crack not bend. Tie rods, steering rack, subframe, upper a-arm mounts are parts that bend.

Anyway let us know how u go. Oh and by the way you should also replace the wheel bearing at the same time. Wont affect alignment but the Z hubs are quite weak

 

Agreed... sounds like they just want you to replace a bunch of parts because they aren't sure. They should be able to narrow it down better than that with alignment data and knowledge of the car. I don't know... maybe they are all damaged... Sometimes though the damage is so subtle you can't spot what specific part is causing it... so it becomes a process of elimination. Which that may be the case with your problem. Sucks... but thats the way it is sometimes.

If they are going to play a guessing game i'd say screw having them do it. I can play a guessing game too... Do the work yourself and save a load of cash. Once you get down and dirty with the car you realize it isn't as bad as some people think.

 

Hi,

I just wanted to let you know that these compression rods certainly do bend, even though they look like cast aluminum. I had the 4 front lower control arms (L & R sides) bent after a front end impact. I believe my spendle knuckle is bent too, but have not replaced it yet. The top of the wheel appears pushed in an inch under the fender on the affected side, while all other wheels look flush with their fenders/quarter pannels. Thanks for the great question and details provided earlier in the post. I definitely need to get the new barring with the new spendle knuckle. I can hear it starting to make that wooping noise around 40 mph.

 

thanks for bringing back to life.. i have front end noise and if new pilot sports and camber kits front and rear dont fix it, im goin to try lower arms and compression rods.. almost 100% sure my g was wrecked, nothing on record newhere but im pretty sure it was