HR A/T Transmissions Issues
guys, need explenation for whats showing below, and you can even try it, then let me know what you got.
manual mode on 3rd gear speeding from 1500 rpm till redline @7500 rpm (HR A/T)
it also happened to a friend of mine, he has 08 G35 Sedan
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fshaP5p_TTc thanks
manual mode on 3rd gear speeding from 1500 rpm till redline @7500 rpm (HR A/T)
it also happened to a friend of mine, he has 08 G35 Sedan
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fshaP5p_TTc thanks
Last edited by f-350z; Mar 16, 2011 at 02:57 AM.
Just a thought, but maybe you should let the car warm up first? Romping on a car that was just started up can cause all sorts of problems. Cars are meant to be driven at operating temperature, which would be that window displayed on your coolant temp gauge that you are not in. Not to mention the ridiculously high oil pressures that occur at pre-operating temperatures.
Second thought is: pick a correct gear. It is clear that you could have pulled that through second gear, and possibly first at the very beginning. Just because it downshifts into 3rd at around 15 doesn't mean you shouldn't downshift it into 2nd before you floor it.
Third thought: may be a cam changeover or something timing related that is changing.
Fourth thought: my car did the same thing when I was running a true dual exhaust and no tune. Once I got tuned it cleared up immediately. Any mods?
In the end though, it pulls strong and shouldn't hesitate at that spot using the correct gear choice, so I'm certainly with rt on this one: I see nothing wrong... Driver error if anything
Second thought is: pick a correct gear. It is clear that you could have pulled that through second gear, and possibly first at the very beginning. Just because it downshifts into 3rd at around 15 doesn't mean you shouldn't downshift it into 2nd before you floor it.
Third thought: may be a cam changeover or something timing related that is changing.
Fourth thought: my car did the same thing when I was running a true dual exhaust and no tune. Once I got tuned it cleared up immediately. Any mods?
In the end though, it pulls strong and shouldn't hesitate at that spot using the correct gear choice, so I'm certainly with rt on this one: I see nothing wrong... Driver error if anything
Last edited by dirtbikr; Mar 15, 2011 at 03:01 AM.
I usually don't drive the car before the operating temp reaches 85 F.
The gauge shows that car was cold Coz we are in winter. That time when I recorded this video, I was driving in a highway for about 45 minutes.
Plus, the same thing happened to a friends car which has the same exact engine
The gauge shows that car was cold Coz we are in winter. That time when I recorded this video, I was driving in a highway for about 45 minutes.
Plus, the same thing happened to a friends car which has the same exact engine
Last edited by f-350z; Mar 16, 2011 at 02:58 AM.
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If the AT is in manual mode, the transmission should still downshift when needed to prevent lugging the engine. When that happens, it'll stay in the lower gear until you shift it up.
I see the little hesitation in the acceleration at 3750. Maybe that's when the valve timing is changed.
How fast was the car going when the accelerator was floored? How fast was the car going when the video ended?
I see the little hesitation in the acceleration at 3750. Maybe that's when the valve timing is changed.
How fast was the car going when the accelerator was floored? How fast was the car going when the video ended?
No it won't, if you're doing 9 MPH in 3rd gear and floor it, it WILL stay in 3rd until the ~110MPH 3rd gear redline. You can't "lug" an auto tranny Z per se, considering the stall speed is greater than any lugging range one would be in.
I usually don't drive the car before the operating temp reaches 85 F.
The gauge shows that car was cold Coz we are in winter. That tome when I recorded this video, I was driving in a highway for about 45 minutes.
Plus, the same thing happened to a friends car which has the same exact engine
The gauge shows that car was cold Coz we are in winter. That tome when I recorded this video, I was driving in a highway for about 45 minutes.
Plus, the same thing happened to a friends car which has the same exact engine
If the AT is in manual mode, the transmission should still downshift when needed to prevent lugging the engine. When that happens, it'll stay in the lower gear until you shift it up.
I see the little hesitation in the acceleration at 3750. Maybe that's when the valve timing is changed.
How fast was the car going when the accelerator was floored? How fast was the car going when the video ended?
I see the little hesitation in the acceleration at 3750. Maybe that's when the valve timing is changed.
How fast was the car going when the accelerator was floored? How fast was the car going when the video ended?
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Anyways, I think this is the closest explanation to what happened. Keep in mind that the Z below has a DE engine.
i tested this on my car last night and it's the same thing.
My best guess is because of the torque converter reaching its stall limit. It's where your TC is fully loaded.
At 800 to roughly 3000 rpm your TC is "stalling" . When you go past this, you're on the the "Coupling" stage where the engine is running almost the same as the speed of the gear.
Someone correct me if i'm wrong.
My best guess is because of the torque converter reaching its stall limit. It's where your TC is fully loaded.
At 800 to roughly 3000 rpm your TC is "stalling" . When you go past this, you're on the the "Coupling" stage where the engine is running almost the same as the speed of the gear.
Someone correct me if i'm wrong.
"In the manual shift mode, the transmission automatically shifts down to 1st gear before the vehicle comes to a stop. When accelerating again, it is necessary to shift up to the desired range."
I interpreted that to mean it would downshift to a lower gear when necessary, and stay there until you shifted up. I haven't played with it that much, so you're probably right about how it works.
Could the hesitation in the engine acceleration at 3750 rpms be the torque converter locking up?
I reread the owner's manual, and it says
"In the manual shift mode, the transmission automatically shifts down to 1st gear before the vehicle comes to a stop. When accelerating again, it is necessary to shift up to the desired range."
I interpreted that to mean it would downshift to a lower gear when necessary, and stay there until you shifted up. I haven't played with it that much, so you're probably right about how it works.
Could the hesitation in the engine acceleration at 3750 rpms be the torque converter locking up?
"In the manual shift mode, the transmission automatically shifts down to 1st gear before the vehicle comes to a stop. When accelerating again, it is necessary to shift up to the desired range."
I interpreted that to mean it would downshift to a lower gear when necessary, and stay there until you shifted up. I haven't played with it that much, so you're probably right about how it works.
Could the hesitation in the engine acceleration at 3750 rpms be the torque converter locking up?
Bringin old thread back to life, but I have g35x vq35hr sedan and the same problem (63K miles).
I ordered Lubegard's Instant Shudder Fix, hope it would help. Has anyone solved this problem (maybe by changing the torque converter?).
I ordered Lubegard's Instant Shudder Fix, hope it would help. Has anyone solved this problem (maybe by changing the torque converter?).
What problem? The little hesitation at 3750 is the torque converter locking up, and that's what it's supposed to do.
I just noticed the OP in the video is running his engine to redline when it's not even close to being warmed up. That's not such a good idea.
I just noticed the OP in the video is running his engine to redline when it's not even close to being warmed up. That's not such a good idea.
Last edited by winchman; Sep 18, 2011 at 10:15 PM.
that's the normal running temp in Gulf spec Zs.
Hope Lubegard's Instant Shudder Fix would help, but maybe someone has another solution...
I wouldn't put anything in the AT that's not recommended by Nissan. They know what's compatible with the internal parts, and they have a vested interested in making sure it'll work together for a long time (read: until the warranty is done).
The additive guys are only interested in what works to get you to buy their stuff.
Your hesitation would have to MUCH more noticeable than the OP's to make me want to do anything at all to the car.
The additive guys are only interested in what works to get you to buy their stuff.
Your hesitation would have to MUCH more noticeable than the OP's to make me want to do anything at all to the car.



shouldn't take long at all!