jubes

iTrader: (22)

Ok guys, I have searched far and wide, but haven't found a solution.

About a month a go, my valve cover cracked, leaking oil everywhere... so I took it to a guy from the forum (no names will be mentioned) and ordered the part, in the meantime he said it was okay to drive on 5 cylinders while waiting for the part (my car sounded like a subie LOL).. he got the part and a new coilpack and installed them (both valve covers).. still had a check engine light.. tried to clear it manually and did but it popped back on.

Come to find out, another coil pack went bad from excessive fuel leaking into it.. so replaced that.. car started to sound right, but was shooting out massive amounts of white smoke which smelled like gas... he said it was okay because of the build up from having the bad coil not going off.. said put some fuel system cleaner and it'll clear up..

well after a week of trying to burn off a full take a fuel and shooting off massive amounts of white smoke... it has minimized, but still appears initially but disappears after 5-10 mins of driving.. but now on my pocket OBD reader, I get p0300, p0302 and p0021 codes shooting out and my car is back to sounding like a subie :/

Can someone pls help me determine whats going on? I'm taking it to the dealership now since I feel like I have no solution on hand, and the guy is not responding to my texts of questions about whats going on..

drifter5

How many miles do you have on the engine? When was the last time you replaced your spark plugs?

If you have a high mileage Z, I would replace all remaining coilpacks (I know it's costly, but it should be done) and all spark plugs. Also, before you change the plugs and coils, I would seafoam the engine.

-edit- I believe the P0021 is a camshaft position sensor, I had mine gone out around 70k, think it was about $90-$130 for the sensor. The sensor on bank 2 had gone out and I had to take the intake tube off for easier access to replace it.

Patrick250

#1 Stop driving it if you can. #2 Oil analysis. (blackstone etc.) #3 Leak down test. My point is to sort out the possible basic mechanical issues.

jubes

iTrader: (22)

Drifter: 89k, The spark plugs were changed initially when the valve cover seal cracked... all 6.

Patrick: The mechanic who worked on it initially said it was okay to drive it around, so I did... I changed the oil myself and it was black with bits of burnt stuff in it, not really sure what it was though... and the mechanic did a leak down test and said it was okay...

Well I took it to the dealership, just to get a second opinion, and two master mechanics from Nissan looked at it, did their tests and took it apart, and found out that two O-rings were worn down in 2 of the cylinders, so they said the engine is done...

jubes

iTrader: (22)

I was wondering... does anybody know if I can just swap the block with a used one... yet retain the remaining parts? or is our engine that sensitive that everything has to be swapped?

Patrick250

I see the collective is ignoring you. Have you done something to tick them off? I'm too lazy to check.

In principle, no not that sensitive. I think the block design of the VQ has/is relatively static between the years/models.

If I were in your position I would find a compatible lightly used whole engine and just do a swap. Less hassle and likely less money. Freshen up the clutch if you have one while you have the engine out. The reason I say less money is that having a mechanic tear your engine apart and checking everything will add up in labor charges. The per-part replacement costs for damaged parts will add up also. You have had a major melt down and everything will need to be checked.

Sharif@Forged

iTrader: (92)

Depending on your goals and budget a slightly used complete long block might be your cheapest and best option. You don't really know what needs replacing until you break down your existing engine.

I couldn't entirely follow your story so no comment there...but if your engine is in fact, done...that is my suggestion.

Now if you are thinking of forced induction I would go with one of our built short blocks and conduct a teardown of your existing engine.

John@z1

iTrader: (2)

Two O rings worn down? What was the compression?

ImportPartsPro

iTrader: (512)

^ That's what I'm wondering. Usually when you tell someone their engine is toast, you should have some compression / leak down numbers to back it up.

jubes

iTrader: (22)

Well the original mechanic who worked on it said the cylinders averaged from 145-147 on the compression test..

The dealership didn't state anything about a compression test, well atleast on the papers it doesn't state anything about a compression test.

ImportPartsPro

iTrader: (512)

I wouldn't be ready to scrap your engine just yet due to a misfire. Get some concrete numbers on a leakdown. If it all checks out you may not need an engine, seems a bit premature at 90k.

John@z1

iTrader: (2)

This.

jubes

iTrader: (22)

UPDATE:

My father's friend asked to look at my car as he used to own his own auto repair shop in Guam.. well he opened the engine, and he looked at the cylinders and the o-rings looked fine (so how did the dealer come up with them being worn down?) and he noted that 5 of the 6 spark plugs that were supposedly replaced, were blackened by all the gunk and residual left from the first repair, that should've been cleaned out, according to my dad's friend... but what he did note was excessive fuel output causing the cylinders to flood.. he's trying to figure out why its doing this but this is what he is thinking is causing the problem..

sound correct?

ImportPartsPro

iTrader: (512)

if it was running that rich the ECU would throw codes for it.

jubes

iTrader: (22)

so a misfire code wouldn't justify for running rich?

ImportPartsPro

iTrader: (512)

You could get misfires from a super rich condition, but you would also likely throw "system too rich" codes.

jubes

iTrader: (22)

I've only been getting multiple misfire codes, and specific cylinder misfire codes (1st, 2nd and 6th cylinder).. but I have not had a system too rich code.. :/

jubes

iTrader: (22)

UPDATE:

2nd mechanic took a peek at my block and he said the o-rings were perfectly fine, he changed the head gasket while he was at it, he thought I had bad fuel injectors which were pushing too much gas into the cylinders causing flooding which would shut the engine off, and cause it to shoot white smoke that smelled like gas.

He replaced them and it still doesn't maintain idle.. and still shoots out white smoke.. so after abruptly $2300 and 2 mechanics and 1 stealership ... it still doesnt work... someone please help me.. :*(

ImportPartsPro

iTrader: (512)

Sounds like you need to take it to a GOOD mechanic with some proper diagnostic skills / equipment. He replaced your headgaskets while checking out your rings? Makes no sense, a leak down test would tell you all you need to know about the condition of the rings and more, no need to pull the heads. You are in Cali, plenty of reputable shops out there.

jubes

iTrader: (22)

The 1st mechanic said he did a compression test and the leak down test.. compression was averaging 145-147.. as for leak down testing, he said it was ok, no numbers given, but he seemed pretty confident with it.

As for the good mechanic, do you have any shops in mind where I could take it... I've already spent about $2300, I don't know if I can take anymore headaches :/