I was driving my 2007 350z today and noticed that when I engaged my clutch, the pedal would not come all the way back up after switching gears and releasing the pedal. I had to use my toe to pull the pedal back to its regular position. The clutch disengages, however, the pedal is just stuck in the lower position. I like this position since its a quick clutch pedal push with less free motion to worry about but I do not know if this is good or bad.

Do I need to bleed my clutch? Do I need to change fluids? Can I just top it off if its low? Not quire sure how to attach this.

Chirag

 

While doing a search, I came across this info that someone else posted. "...I've done a lot of research and I've heard that the 2007 year model 350Zs have numerous problems with the clutch. To be specific I've heard that the clutch pressure drops so much that the clutch pedal sticks to the floor when depressed and also that there are problems with rattling and shaking when shifting."

Clutch pedal sticks - This is what I am seeing. My car has 10,500 miles on it.

Rattling and Shaking - I have an issue where my shifter starts to shake while driving on the highway.

Chirag

 

Just to get the terminology straight:

You push the clutch pedal down to disengage the the clutch.

You let the pedal up to engage the clutch.

There are all sorts of things you can do that might help. Changing the fluid, rebuilding or replacing the master and slave cylinders, installing a stainless steel hose, and other things have been mentioned as remedies.

 

Sorry about terminology...

well while driving home today I was unable to shift gears and the pedal went right to the floor everytime. Luckily I was close enough to a shop that we were able to push my car there. Looks like i may have blown my slave cylinder. =(

 

I also experience something similar on my 06, when driving for a while or temp is hot outside. Clutch doesn't fully depress and have to use foot to bring all the way up. When in this state, clutch kind of gives a little before fully pressing down. When clutch is not sticking and working fairly normal, I notice there's a clicking sound at the same spot when depressing.

 

i'm having the same problem...replaced the slave and clutch, adjusted the petal and bled the lines. prob is still there. im going to replace the master this week and c if that helps

 

I wasted so much time and money on this problem. Bled the clutch a couple times, problem went away and then came back. Worse when driving longer distances or in hotter temps.

Replaced the slave and master cylinders for the clutch, threw on a SS clutch line, Motul RBF600, (the clutch line and fluid aren't really necessary, but I had planned to do those anyway) finally it's all good.

 

This is EXACTLY what happened to me yesterday afternoon. The clicking sound in the clutch has been on and off for a few months now but yesterday it started sticking. Engagement/Disengagement still worked perfectly, it just got stuck after the next gear had been fully engaged it was 90 degrees outside and I was in stop/go traffic. It only lasted for about a half mile and went away once I was cruising at 40+. I had the A/C blasting too.. So sounds like heat was the culprit like others have mentioned. I guess its time to replace my clutch fluid at the very least and maybe rebuild my clutch master and slave.

2006 with 65k miles original clutch, original tranny

 

replace master and slave with the zspeed combo....HRs are know for the internal slave going out

 

http://www.zspeedperformance.com/ZSp...VMSTRFLUID.htm

Is this what you are talking about? That sounds like a permanent fix to the problem.

A bit more expensive than just rebuilding and flushing. Decisions..

 

yup. mine went out 6 weeks after i bought the car, raised hell at dealership and they worked with me some on cost... well it was replaced with OEM stuff, and it went out again a year later. i put this combo in and havent had another problem or looked back since... been a little over a year

 

I did the HD concentric slave and wilwood master and still had the same problem of pedal not returning all the way. Had the RJM pedal installed and now finally the pedal returns.

 

you have to adjust the clevis rod.... per zspeed...

 

Good to know. Thanks for the heads up. Sounds like that Texas heat got the best of ya. ATM I'm leaning towards replacing everything because it gets pretty hot in Alabama.

Did you replace the rubber line? I read some where that the hose was degrading under high heat and this caused the slave to get gunked up. I also read about some orifice thing in the wheel well that was causing issues but I'd rather not chop that thing out if possible.

 

the only rubber hose is on the remote fill tank.... if you do the kit it is all stainless

 

and with internal slave, your fluid will get dirty fast... clutch dust seeps the connectors...

 

Clevis rod?

Does zspeed send installation instructions with that combo kit?

 

the part that connects to the clutch pedal

 

Ah okay, thanks for the help Travlee.

 

I dicked around with that rod a bunch to no avail.