Searching many sites and learning more about the sticky pedal issues on 350 Z's and came across this link:

http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html

I think he is on to something, but wonder if anyone on here has also tried this for their Z instead of first replacing the slave or clutch cylinders?

And, this process also alleviates you from even bleeding your clutch fluid if I understand it correctly.

I will be flushing system with ATE Blue first anyway, but thought this is a great process to use after I do the initial flush. Once per year and no bleeding/pumping.

Anyway, I thought someone on hear could tell me more if this would work on a Z. I only have owned my Z for 1 month and the clutch went bad after the first week once I started to work the clutch more.

 

Interesting. I have to go check my fluid.

 

nice information

 

Did anybody try this procedure?

 

Well I tried it this weekend - so far no help - I will be bleeding clutch fluid - but thought I would try. Maybe our systems are just different from the Corvette's?

 

I think that procedure is aimed more at preventing problems than curing existing problems. You'd need to rebuild the system with all new seals, and then replace the fluid periodically before the new seals got damaged.

 

Bump this. Anyone actually tried or recommend this method as a good way to "bleed" clutch fluid? I am having air in my clutch system as the clutch engagement point is lower than before while fluid is still perfect. I am making trips to the shop for clutch bleeding once a year and it's getting expensive and annoying. If this works, I wouldn't mind just doing it at home...

 

In the end - didn't work for me completely, helped just a little - I needed to bleed fluid periodically. In the end I have sold car. Loved it, but it required too much maintenance IMHO. I think if I would have kept it, I would have replaced slave and master clutch cylinders and only used the high end clutch fluids. Another option would be to go to stainless steel braided clutch lines - but this violated SCCA rules if you autocross.

I will be posting my 350Z tools and cover in the marketplace soon. Including the powerbleeder.

 

I tried this method and I think it had barely noticeable improvement. I'm wondering if you had air in your clutch lines and you keep pumping the clutch, wouldn't the air eventually make it's way up to the top of the CMC? At least that's how the nature of physics would be...

Damn Z's man, the car drives perfectly awesome other that the common clutch pedal issues. I drive it into my friend's shop and they all give me the WTF look. Since they just bled it 6 months ago. It's frustrating.

 

You need to learn to do this yourself if you keep the car since 6 months is too short - maybe once a year is all you need. Its very critical that the technician places the hose for bleeding into a jar that has fluid in it so prevent air back into the system. Also, if air does get into your system that fast one of two things are happening - low quality fluid - you want sealed good fluid like ATE Super Blue - must be DOT 4. If the fluid is old it absorbs water and then the water heats in the line causing new air pockets, etc. Search the web since I found a great article from an infinity enthusiast that had a great procedure that I followed. Best of luck and if you want my old tools and supplies - message me. The car is really worth the trouble if it is not your commuter. That is where I had the problem - I needed to actually drive the car everyday in traffic.

 

http://infinitihelp.com/diy/gsedan/p...id_service.php

Once you get new parts this can be done once a year by you - its pretty straightforward.

 

Thanks Fastie! I am using quality Motul DOT 5.1 fluid which has the same properties as DOT 4 but with higher boiling points. As you've suggested, I am planning to start learning and doing this myself. The entire process is pretty familiar to me as I have done this in my friend's shop using a typical hoist lift. So there is plenty of room.

However, I tried doing this without jacking up the car last night and can pretty much get a 8mm wrench on the bleeder screw. The only small problem is I don't have enough leverage to torque the bleeder screw in this awkward position. Should I use the closed or open end of the 8mm wrench? Also, I'd assume I don't have to take off my driver side wheel?

Finally, just a couple of safety precautions I'd like to ask. It looks like in the video, the car is jacked up on front only, and using 2 jack stands. The rear looks like it's on the ground with e-brake up. This looks to be safe but should I bother with putting some wooden blocks on the rear wheels? Sorry, as I'm not familiar with jacking up the car on rwd cars and would rather be safe than sorry.

Like you said, the car drives amazing other than this stupid clutch problem.

Thanks again!

 

Excellent points to address. About safety, I'm not an expert so seek good advice from your friend in the shop. After having said that qualifier, I certainly use jack stands and blocks (the wedge type that came with my jack stand). I also leave the jack in a location that it acts as an additional measure of safety. After awhile I then bought these awesome drive on ramps called race ramps. I highly recommend them.

As far as the wrench - use a special wrench made for bleeder valves this goes around all sides but one and is made to not strip the bleeder screw.

Hope that helps.

 

Thanks Fastie! I am going to buy a floor jack, jack stands, wheel chocker, and the special bleeder wrench today. Also, going to look into buying some ramps as well.

I plan to drive the front onto ramps. Then, position jack stands behind each front wheel just as extra safety precaution, but not putting the car's weight on it. Then put wheel chockers on the back wheels with the e-brake fully engaged. I'll only use the floor jack to jack up the front if the ramps don't give me enough room. Basically, the ramps are supporting the cars weight in the front. I think this should be pretty safe.

 

Recommend race ramps - VERY big difference between these and the plastic ones you get at the store. Well worth the difference in price and you can drive up them without grounding out the front fascia.

Check out: http://www.raceramps.com/

P.S. I am not affiliated with them in anyway, just love them that much, Best solution I found instead of having to drive to my Dad's garage (he has a lift).