Will I need a new engine? Compression test results
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Will I need a new engine? Compression test results
I've been burning oil (5quarts/~600 miles~) so I decided to finally do a compression test... after pulling the coils, there was no oil in the tube, but some oil on the lower threads of the plugs (meaning from inside the cylinders). With the amount of oil being burned, you would think there'd be a smoke screen behind me, but I honestly don't see that much--if any...
Two of the plugs looked pretty fouled -- they were changed in maybe February of this year, giving me a random misfire and all four O2 sensor codes
Dry results were
235|190
210|185
210|185
front
Wet results
240|235
250|235
250|220
Front
My warranty ended two months ago.. how much am I screwed?
Two of the plugs looked pretty fouled -- they were changed in maybe February of this year, giving me a random misfire and all four O2 sensor codes
Dry results were
235|190
210|185
210|185
front
Wet results
240|235
250|235
250|220
Front
My warranty ended two months ago.. how much am I screwed?
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Haha leave my dsm alone! :-)
Its about 80100 miles on the engine-- and yes, same order. I tested each cylinder 2x to confirm I got the same readings...
I'm assuming the leak down would show if its the valve seals vs the rings?
Its about 80100 miles on the engine-- and yes, same order. I tested each cylinder 2x to confirm I got the same readings...
I'm assuming the leak down would show if its the valve seals vs the rings?
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Sidenote: it makes me think it may be the seals because if I leave the car for 2+ days and start it, it bogs down and smokes like crazy, until all the oil burns out the cylinders ... sound about right?
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When I say 5qts, I mean enough where its almost nothing on the dipstick, and if I make a sharp turn, the oil light will flash.
Don't believe I've over revved before... I can maybe think of one or two times since I've had the car (2007)... nothing recently. And I've changed the oil every 3-3500 even when I started using synthetic a few yrs back--
Don't believe I've over revved before... I can maybe think of one or two times since I've had the car (2007)... nothing recently. And I've changed the oil every 3-3500 even when I started using synthetic a few yrs back--
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When I say 5qts, I mean enough where its almost nothing on the dipstick, and if I make a sharp turn, the oil light will flash.
Don't believe I've over revved before... I can maybe think of one or two times since I've had the car (2007)... nothing recently. And I've changed the oil every 3-3500 even when I started using synthetic a few yrs back--
Don't believe I've over revved before... I can maybe think of one or two times since I've had the car (2007)... nothing recently. And I've changed the oil every 3-3500 even when I started using synthetic a few yrs back--
As others have stated perform a leak down test...
Good luck!
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Its a 2004 roadster DE
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Is there a write-up on how to do this (including torque specs) anywhere on here/online?
Also, any other parts I should think about replacing while I have everything apart? Gaskets, timing components, etc...
Thanks for your help so far guys!
Also, any other parts I should think about replacing while I have everything apart? Gaskets, timing components, etc...
Thanks for your help so far guys!
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But, I have not looked far enough into it to see how viable it is. I think a leak-down tester is something like $100, so if this is reasonably easy:
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I was planning on making one of these "when I get around to it" and I've glanced at this link: http://www.650motorcycles.com/LeakDownTester.html
But, I have not looked far enough into it to see how viable it is. I think a leak-down tester is something like $100, so if this is reasonably easy:
But, I have not looked far enough into it to see how viable it is. I think a leak-down tester is something like $100, so if this is reasonably easy:
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I don't understand why oil would leak past the valve stem seals when the engine is off. There's a good supply of oil to the cam and lifter area while the engine is running, but that oil should quickly drain away from the stem seals as soon as the engine stops.
Was there a significant difference in engine temperature between the time you did the left and right banks? I'm having a hard time coming up with an explanation for all three cylinders on one side being so much lower than the other side.
Was there a significant difference in engine temperature between the time you did the left and right banks? I'm having a hard time coming up with an explanation for all three cylinders on one side being so much lower than the other side.
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