Steering wheel shakes under hard braking
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (30)
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: SGV
Posts: 943
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Steering wheel shakes under hard braking
Noticed this when i still had my brembos, works perfectly fine under normal circumstances, but while at the track braking after a long straight usually around 100+mph down to 20-40mph, the brake and steering wheel vibrate. Recently installed a front bbk, and its still doing the same thing. Is that the abs or is one of my bushings going out? I have already replaced the lower arm bushings with urethane, but still on the stock compression rod bushing. Ive had warped rotors before and usually it will shake under any braking, so im pretty sure its not that. Still using street pads so i dont think its over braking yet. But hoping someone experienced the same problem and can help me pin point me in the right direction, thanks.
Trending Topics
#8
New Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (30)
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: SGV
Posts: 943
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
only about 1-2k miles since lca bushings were replaced with whitelines, bbk was brand new before my last track event, about 500 miles on them now. was thinking it might be the wheel bearing but no play on the wheels when in the air.
never thought about the speed sensor, will look into those thanks
also going to try alignment again, did put a wheel off and bent the wheel at my second to last track event
never thought about the speed sensor, will look into those thanks
also going to try alignment again, did put a wheel off and bent the wheel at my second to last track event
Last edited by halfrice; 09-20-2011 at 03:28 PM.
#12
New Member
iTrader: (3)
I would say "uneven pad deposit" rather than warped rotors though. Especially if the brakes werent bedded in after the installation. I've tracked my rotors real hard and never did they warp. IMO it's a very rare case esp. when we use the premium brands
Good luck solving the issue man.
Good luck solving the issue man.
Last edited by 350Zdj; 09-20-2011 at 10:14 PM.
#14
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (564)
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Long Island, New York
Posts: 19,266
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
5 Posts
I would say "uneven pad deposit" rather than warped rotors though. Especially if the brakes werent bedded in after the installation. I've tracked my rotors real hard and never did they warp. IMO it's a very rare case esp. when we use the premium brands
Good luck solving the issue man.
Good luck solving the issue man.
#15
Sponsor
Vivid Racing
Vivid Racing
iTrader: (67)
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Gilbert,AZ
Posts: 4,078
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Anyway, back to the OP...
I'd start by inspecting the LCA bushings as everyone else mentioned. It's not uncommon for them to go out on the Z, and they'll do exactly what you're describing. If they look good, move on to the rest of the suggestions here. Heck, even if they're good, at least inspect all other bushings. 1 bad bushing will strain the remaining bushings. If the budget allows, look into an Energy Suspension HyperFlex Kit since you track the car.
#16
Registered User
iTrader: (12)
Also remove the rotor and check run-out on the hub surface itself.
When i bought my car with 42k miles on it i didn't hit the brakes at high enough speed to find the hard braking shudder.
Long story short i had runout on the hub that caused outer rotor surface runout. I replaced the hub, got zero runout on the rotor outer surface but still had the shutter. Flipped the rotor around backwards and found 30X the max allowable runout on the in board surface of the rotor.
When i bought my car with 42k miles on it i didn't hit the brakes at high enough speed to find the hard braking shudder.
Long story short i had runout on the hub that caused outer rotor surface runout. I replaced the hub, got zero runout on the rotor outer surface but still had the shutter. Flipped the rotor around backwards and found 30X the max allowable runout on the in board surface of the rotor.