Last week Sunday (Oct 9th 2011) I noticed when I would push the accelerator
my RPMs would go up then drop 500 rpm. My acceleration felt laggy/saggy.
I met a guy with his GF and they were like do a burnout and I said no, I am
nice to my car. His girlfriend was annoying as ****, so I said okay, but no
clutch drops. I FULLY engaged the clutch at 1500-2000 rpm and put the pedal
down and my car could not break loose (Base, no TCS).


Dude said it was maybe my TPS (throttle plate sensor or something of that sort)
I assumed he must be right as I thought it could not be my clutch as it was
engaging and allowing me to shift it just felt as though my throttle response
was laggy and it was cutting gas to the engine.


I called the Nissan service center and asked about bringing the vehicle in,
They said that the guy who test drove the vehicles was out and not in till
next week. I asked if I could bring it in just to see if it was safe to drive.
They said he was the only one to make that determination (AKA, no).
What really pisses me off is that if they took it in I could have gotten a
rental comp'd till the repairs could be done. Instead the issue got worse
till it became obvious it was a clutch issue. Now my clutch is shot, takes a
good few minutes to get up to 40mph keeping the RPMs real low and even
so as to not slip.


So I am taking my 350z to the Nissan Service center to see about getting
my clutch replaced under warranty.


Since I bought this car 2 months ago I have had the front window motor,
rear driver side wheel bearings, and passenger side lock actuator replaced.
Not a good first impression to a long time fan first time Nissan owner.


If other owners could comment on problems/resolutions I would appreciate
the advice. Also if you have had this issue and Nissan denied you a warranty
repair please post. If they do not voluntarily repair and replace my clutch and
flywheel, I will be contacting my attorney.


this is the issue I am having though it's not me or my Z
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9I9Qvo-b1jU


Also if I do have to replace the clutch I am going after market so parts
recommendations, reviews, write ups, etc.. would be great.


Another issue just curious if anyone is having tranny/clutch issues
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oEd-ePpJSUY

 

sorry I can't comment on dealership experience and clutch replacement. I do know that sometimes i will go to my car in the morning and experience the same thing as the guy in video 2 is experiencing. Then after a little it just goes away. Also, if you are interested, PM me as I have an aftermarket clutch/flywheel for sale for the 2007-2008 Z's.

Good luck and let us know what the dealership says.

 

youd better be aware that aftermarket clutch parst are not going to be a stealthy addition to your car. They are loud and they feel very different.

you can still NOT take care of a car in 27k miles. While its not 100k, its still several months, and for it being an 08, sounds like youre the second or maybe even thired owner. Anyone who has to give that car back , sell it , or move on in such a short time after buying it is probably not an avid driver id say.

Im asorry its become your experience, but as you will surely see here thruoughout the many posts, your issues stated are certainly not issues common to the car.
The window motor? meh.. miles or not, its al electrical part that was put together 4 years ago still.. it happens. They warranty it.
Your wheel bearing? Very odd. They usually last a very long time.

Cant blame Nissan, sounds like its its just your car.

Im curious what the problem is tho.. i mean, have you purchased a car before? Not being sracastic.. im just wondering, we have alot of young new owners now.
SOunds like a pretty normal used car transaction to me. And they are replacing stuff for you on warranty.

If you bought the car new in 2008, you would not have these issues. But you didnt, you bought a 2008 for far far far less than what we all paid for our cars new, between 32 and 45k.

Im not busting your *****, please dont read it that way.. im pointing out that you did in fact NOT get the short end of the stick hre.. you are just looking at your situation the wrong way is all.

Get your stuff fixed under warranty, and Id probably stick to an OEM clutch and flywheel if i was you.

 

I doubt they'll replace the clutch under warranty, since it's a "wear item".

If you drive it much more like in the first video, you'll ruin the flywheel, and it cannot be resurfaced.

If you end up putting in an aftermarket clutch, also install a HD slave cylinder and new master cylinder. Then change the fluid and flush the system every year or 10K miles.

I hope you've got some spare cash.

Edit: I just read the post above. If you do a search, you'll find dozens of threads about the concentric slave cylinder issues and the clutch pedal not returning to the top of its travel. The CSC is a POS, and that's definitely Nissan's fault, IMO.

 

sorry, instead of editing an already long post. ill note here.. i see you ahve an atty.. id doubt youre a kid haha.

So that being the case.. id still say you had issues w your master or slave cylinder, or a misadjustment at the pedal casuing failure of one or the other, this can easily cuase a clutch to run partially engaged while you drive, buring it out prematurely at no real fault of your own.Had it happen several times in a row on a Z32, dealer sintalled aftermarket clutches etc.. not a good idea btw haha.

Id search a bit on those issueson the forum here, and arm yourself with that info. If youre actually really nice to them at the dealership, and jsut let them know you understand these things happen etc etc.. but youve looked into it and theres a few reasons that can cause this at no fault to you.. and that you jsut want it fixed, for everything to be spec'd out correctly to nissan measurements.. have the master and slave checked and to have it re bled etc.. and then you promise youll be on your merry way... you have a far better chance of getting them to just fix it all for you and get you out of there.

BELIEVE ME.

 

^+1
It's been discussed on the forums in various threads that clutches are wear items, just like tires. Unless there was something defective about the clutch or flywheel, it won't be covered under warranty. I'd say, it doesn't hurt to ask, but expect the dealership saying no to it being covered under warranty.

Also, if you do decide to run an aftermarket clutch and/or flywheel, your powertrain warranty for the trans will be out the window, if you care about retaining the warranty. Just something to consider.

Another thing to keep in mind is that the stock flywheel costs about $1000. Give or take some.

 

Just a few points

1. clutch gone bad at only 26k miles, your doing something wrong or previouse owner got rid of it for a good reason. If its slipping you will significantly notice it. it feels like a tug on a leash.

2. If you ever press the brake and gas peddle (even slightly) together your rpms will drop and an ecu overide takes place. this is to prevent accidents when you attempt to press the brake and you hit the gas instead.

 

Not to pick a fight but if #2 was true you couldn't heel-toe downshift like I do every day.

 

Me, too, and it's especially nice with the 380RS gas pedal:

 

 

I installed some SPL pedals 3 weeks ago. 100X better when shoes are wet. Note: this was initial fitment before i put all the screws in

Sorry for the crappy pic.

 

I have just over 20,000 miles on my '08, and I'm the only owner. I rarely if ever hit it hard anymore due to the cops that love to write me tickets. I've had the window motor replaced twice (second not under warranty, cost around $500.00) and just two weeks ago had my second slave cylinder replaced. Then today I turn her on to drive into work and the check engine light is on, again. Really getting old. When I'm ready to look for a new car in 3 years or so, sadly it probably will not be a Nissan unless I'm still in love with the GTR.

 

Yeah it's a P.I.T.A.


ON TOPIC:



I am not sure what to search for if someone could offer some hand holding it woud be great.
I realize their is a search function but I am not sure what key word comobos to use. I have
a feeling I would be overwhelmed by '07 HR CSC failure threads. I am suposed to recive a
call today for a local Nissan Rep and would like some firepower to back up my claims.
Thanks to all that care.



SIDE NOTE:


Sorry to hear that I know how you feel. I love the Z cars I think they
are amazing. Aesthetically they can't be beat (except by the '69 corvette
stingray http://tinyurl.com/33atzbt best ever) and they are so fast.
I LOVED the 90's 300zx and the 370z is soooo sexy I was going to upgrade
to a 370z thins coming year but I don't know if I trust it. Might skip
right to the R35 if that does not seem too unreliable.

I heard the window motors are very expensive so I might get a service
agreement just for them. If I do not I will likely do a write up on
how to refurb or replace a window motor myself. Might even loo into
aftermarket motors that will fit as the one in there are supposedly
made by a french manufacture, and they are ****.


SIDE SIDE NOTE:

PrimeX "Your mom" likes your siggy. Nice

 

so u did a burnout b/c some guy and his gf wanted to see you do one

 

my synchro in 3rd went out at 12k miles and they replaced the tranny underwarranty. then at 17k miles the clutch started slipping and brought that in and they replaced the clutch and flywheel under warranty aswell.

while your at it and especially if your putting an aftermarket clutch and (possibly flywheel) i would do an aftermarket heavy duty csc. My oem csc failed on me after about 800 miles of an aftermarket clutch (granted it was a bigger twin plate and not just a single) but still while everything is out i would do it right.

(if u ever plan on boosting your car i have an os giken twin plate clutch for sale things brand new almost only 3k miles on it)

 

Thanks Ace, If I replace my clutch I am definitely going after market clutch
and CSC. I will start a new thread for clutch, fly wheel, HD CSC part
suggestions.

If you could tell me why you are selling your Giken, what you have now and
what prompted that decision that would be great.





Nope I TRIED to do a burn out and FAILED B/C my clutch was slipping.
And I TRIED not because they asked, but because dude's GF was
obnoxious and interupting my conversaion with dude, I thought it
would get her to STFU.

 

i was stock block TT on mine and i got some bad gas and it fried my pistons and cylinder walls. so while it was out i did a low compression stroker build and itd be right on the verge of maxing out my twin plate. so instead of testing it out i just picked up a triplate. nothing wrong with my twin at all just barely broken in infact only has 3k miles. heres a link to the for sale thread on it. https://my350z.com/forum/drivetrain/...to-700-tq.html

 

if your not planning on boosting it ever though a twin plate might be a little more grab than you want though. sure would hook up though haha

 

Okay, upon further examination I actually don't see how a failed CSC could
cause a partially engaged slipping clutch.

The CSC at rest is empty till is is filled by the master cylinder upon pressing the
clutch pedal. At this point the CSC is filled with hydraulic fluid and pushes against
the diaphragm spring this removes pressure from the driving plate which in turn
removes pressure from the driven plate disengaging the clutch disc from the
flywheel/friction plate.

So by default a CSC cannot run a clutch disc partially disengaged and slipping.
So if it were manufacture defect it would have to be a defect in:

- The pressure plate diaphragm spring not fully engaging the clutch
- A misadjustment at the pedal partially engaging the master cylinder
- A master cylinder issue providing hydraulic fluid pressure with no
pressure on the clutch pedal

So am I wrong? Are there other options I am missing. I realize I am arguing
against myself here but I care about knowing the real issue more than a free
lunch (AKA clutch job).


Possible the fluid was not returning to the reservoir staying in the slave
cylinder for a time after pressing the clutch leaving the clutch disc only
partially engaged?

Any ideas here as to how this could be NOT my fault/previous owner's fault?
*crosses fingers*



How a diaphragm pressure plate clutch works:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FfjGo...eature=related
Just understand that the part of the video where he shows the throw out
bearing that this fork bearing setup is replaced by the CSC setup in our
HR Z trannys.


Gosh I hope I am not a complete idiot....



Your clutch would be amazing but it's a bit rich for my blood at the moment. Need this clutch job, brake pads, oil change, and tires...

Got oil
Can do clutch myself
Need, Clutch, Flywheel, HD CSC, Brake pads, Tires.
Need. $$$

 

I think the piston in the CSC binds up as you're letting up on the clutch pedal. That keeps the clutch from engaging fully, and lets it slip. That also explains why the pedal will sometimes stick halfway up when you let off the clutch.