Shawz1102

iTrader: (1)

I have a 2007 6 speed HR with the following mods:

- Motordyne ART Pipes
- Motordyne Shockwave dual w/ XYZ pipe
- Injen dual intakes

If i drive the car in a cold start, i will get a somewhat violent stutter or jerk in the car at about a little below 1.5k. After the car's been driving for a while and warmed up, the jerk will become mild. To avoid this jerk, i have to accelerate very gently, just barely pressing down on the gas pedal...

Does anyone else have this stuttering i'm referring to? Before when I had the MD ART pipes and stock exhaust, it didn't happen. This was after installing the Shockwave dual exhaust.

I'm suspecting that it's because I didn't get a tune. I'd like others who have had this stutter chime in. I can't justify paying $500 for a tune just to fix this

sportbiketed

iTrader: (11)

Did you unplug your battery for 15 minutes after installing the parts? Also are you sure everything is hooked up?

viceversa

iTrader: (1)

You might need to just do a ECU reset. Not sure if the same procedure applies for the HR engine but take a look:

<u>Basic ECU Reset</u>

Operations Procedures:

1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” (NOT start) and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 seconds.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone. If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Remember, timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU. You may even need someone's help to do this correctly.


Note: The following reset procedures are directly from the 2004 G35 Sedan Service Manual.

<u>Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning</u>

Description:
Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning is an operation to learn the fully released position of the accelerator pedal by monitoring the accelerator pedal position sensor output signal. It must be performed each time harness connector of accelerator pedal position sensor or ECM is disconnected.

Operation Procedure:
1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch ON and wait at least 2 seconds.
3. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Turn ignition switch ON and wait at least 2 seconds.
5. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.


<u>Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning</u>

Description:
Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning is an operation to learn the fully closed position of the throttle valve by monitoring the throttle position sensor output signal. It must be performed each time harness connector of electric throttle control actuator or ECM is disconnected.

Operation Procedure:
1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch ON.
3. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.
Make sure that throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.


<u>Idle Air Volume Learning</u>

Description:
Idle Air Volume Learning is an operation to learn the idle air volume that keeps each engine within the specific range. It must be performed each time electric throttle control actuator or ECM is replaced, or if idle speed or ignition timing is out of specification.

Preparation:
Before performing Idle Air Volume Learning, make sure that all of the following conditions are satisfied. Learning will be cancelled if any of the following conditions are missed for even a moment.

- Battery voltage: More than 12.9V (At idle)
- Engine coolant temperature: 70 - 100 Degrees C (158 – 212 Degrees F)
- PNP switch: ON (Park/Neutral Position Safety Switch - AT only, MT fully depress clutch)
- Electric load switch: OFF (Air conditioner, rear window defogger, headlamps. Note: on vehicles equipped with daytime light systems, if the parking brake is applied before the engine is started, the headlamps will not be illuminated.)
- Steering wheel: Neutral (Straight-ahead position)
- Vehicle speed: Stopped
- Transmission: Warmed-up (For A/T models, drive vehicle for 10 minutes.)

Operation Procedure:
1. Perform "Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning"
2. Perform "Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning"
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Check that all items listed under the topic PREPARATION (previously mentioned) are in good order.
5. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.
6. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch ON and wait 3 seconds.
7. Repeat the following procedure quickly five times within 5 seconds:
7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal.
7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the MIL stops blinking and turned ON.
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the MIL turned ON.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
11. Wait 20 seconds.
12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure that idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications:

Idle speed A/T: 650rpm, + or - 50 rpm (in P or N position)
Idle speed M/T: 650rpm, + or - 50 rpm (in N position)
Ignition timing A/T: 15 Degrees BTDC, + or – 5 Degrees BTDC (in P or N position)
Ignition timing M/T: 15 Degrees BTDC, + or – 5 Degrees BTDC (in N position)

13. If idle speed and ignition timing are not within the specification, Idle Air Volume Learning will not be carried out successfully. If idle speed and ignition timing are within the specification and Idle Air Volume Learning cannot be performed successfully, find the cause of the incident by referring to the following Diagnostic Procedure:

1. Check that throttle valve is fully closed.
2. Check PCV valve operation.
3. Check that downstream of throttle valve is free from air leakage.
4. When the above three items check out OK, engine component parts and their installation condition are questionable.
5. If any of the following conditions occur after the engine has started, eliminate the cause of the incident and perform Idle Air Volume Learning all over again:

- Engine stalls.
- Erroneous idle.

Rubidium

iTrader: (6)

once I installed my ART pipes, my A/FR was disgusting. If you're running stock tune then that's your problem.

Can't justify? You completely changed how the car breathes...... I gain 44whp off stillen gen 3, art pipes, and shockwave exhaust.

viceversa

iTrader: (1)

but with the mods you have....A tune is worth the money bro, if not for the improved throttle response and better gains...the peace of mind that your car is running smooth and efficient is worth it alone.

ryanm8

iTrader: (2)

I bet you an ECU reset will fix it for you.

Shawz1102

iTrader: (1)

i would LOVE a tune if it was cheaper. Just that i don't know if i'll keep the car long enough to justify $500... Decisions decisions...

How are you so sure of that? i've had the bolt ons on for about 3 months already. i'll do a ECU reset and see if that changes anything.

Waiz

iTrader: (57)

Doesn't sound like an exhaust issue and a tune probably won't help.

Did you double check everything after the intake install?

Bmurray350z

iTrader: (34)

+1 on the battery reset.. also check your MAF. are you getting any CEL?

SE5spd

iTrader: (17)

https://my350z.com/forum/vq35hr/3078...g-warm-up.html

read and learn.

Shawz1102

iTrader: (1)

Like i said, it started happening after MD Shockwave. I've had the intake on for 2 years with no prob, and art pipes for nearly a year as well - no sputtering/stuttering/etc. After Shockwave exhaust installation, it was when this started happening.


I'll do the ECU and battery reset. What's there to check about the MAF? Make sure it's clean?

And no, i'm not getting CEL. CEL only pops up once in a blue moon and usually goes away by itself after a few drives.


EDIT: I read somewhere that after a full bolt on, people were having similar issues which was resolved after getting a tune.
Found it:
https://my350z.com/forum/intake-exha...yne-setup.html

Eightonesix

I noticed that my '08 was doing this mildly as well after installing K&N drop ins + Res. test pipes + Bassani Exhaust. I would be driving, give her a little more gas and it seemed to bog a little. While watching the RPMs rise, the needle at certain points would slightly stall/didn't move in a linear fashion as like before when bone stock. It was less noticeable after I driven it for bit though. I got an Uprev dyno tune 2 weeks ago but haven't really had a chance to spend time driving her-weather kinda been cold and gloomy around here lately but when driving back from the dyno, she did seem to move thru the RPMs a lot smoother similar to before I put the bolt-ons on.

Neimad

Unplug the oxygen sensors, the ECM is going to keep trying to adjust AF to make the non-existant cats work; without o2 signals it will run a fixed map. Or tune.

ronn1

iTrader: (1)

I have Nismo intake and Invidia Dual. I did retain the cats though. GET THE OSIRUS TUNE! I got the tune before adding the Dual (after the intake mod) and the car has no problems at all. With cats off, you really need the tune. You will add more with the tune than you got with the intake and exhaust.

Bmurray350z

iTrader: (34)

I had a similar issue when I put my TopSpeed true dual on.. i made a video of it a week or so ago...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h9NhzlI3syo

Shawz1102

iTrader: (1)

Your vid is private

350ztttt

iTrader: (5)

Same problem. Full bolt-ons, and it 'wobbles' and lurches at low rpm's in first gear. Never worried me, just needs a tune.

Anyone no where I can get a tune or an hr-friendly accessport around ohio???

~Ryan

Ronin82

iTrader: (4)

this has been discussed many times already. you need a reflash. reseting the ecu won't fix the problem. the ECU needs to be programmed for the new bolt on's

Bmurray350z

iTrader: (34)

Sorry, try looking at it now

Bmurray350z

iTrader: (34)

just wanted to say one more thing.. i went out and bought some MAF electronic cleaner and sprayed down the MAF real good, let it dry for about 10 minutes, and the car feels like new. you should def try it!