joe.zajicek

Ok so just out in the z today taking a ride and the power was gone all of a sudden then the car began to bogg really bad then backfires a few times and shut down I was thankfully able to roll to the side of the highway and stop I waited a minute and started her back up and she drove ok then 2 minutes later again and it did this all the way home .... Approximately 5 times before I could get home the car isn't throwing any codes what so ever .... What is going on has this happened I anyone I searched and found crank shaft position sensor and or camshaft sensors on both passenger and driver side could be bad and be causing te issue but other then that I dot get what is going on and like I said no code at all which isn't helping .... Any input?

joe.zajicek

No one has any input 2003 track edition only 48000 miles I don't get it

SparkleCityHop

iTrader: (30)

That's odd to me that it isn't throwing any codes with those symptoms. Have you had it scanned and verified that it's clean, or are you just going on the CEL not being lit on the dash?

joe.zajicek

Plugged in my obd scanner and everything no codes that's what's getting me messed up too if I had a lead it would be way easier to figure out nothing has changed on the car even the same gas in her all week I'm lost

SparkleCityHop

iTrader: (30)

Have you disconnected the battery and tried the ECU reset procedures yet?

Past that, I'd be trying manual troubleshooting procedures like:
Do you have Cipher or gauges for checking A/F?
Do you have anything to test vacuum?
Anything to listen for knock?

joe.zajicek

Batterys disconnected right now what's the ecu reset procedure

SparkleCityHop

iTrader: (30)

Simple Method
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To just reset the CEL, you can also just pull the negative battery cable and then press the brakes 3 times. Then hook the cable back up.


Official Methods
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ECU Resetting Procedures

Timing is extremely critical. If it is NOT DONE within the specify time, the ECU will not reset and the Check Engine Light (CEL) will continue to remain ON.
A stop watch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.

Operations Procedures

1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 second.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.

If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.


Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning

Operation Procedure
1. Make sure that the accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
3. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.

Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning

Operation Procedures
1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch is “ON”.
3. Turn ignition switch is “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
Make sure that the throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.


Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning)
It is better to count the time accurately with a clock.

Operation Procedures
1. Perform “Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning”.
2. Perform “Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning”.
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
5. Conform that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
6. Repeat the following (steps 7a, 7b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD)
7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the Check Engine Light (CEL) stops blinking and turned ON.
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the CEL is ON.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
11. Wait 20 seconds.
12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure the idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.

joe.zajicek

I'm going to try these things and hope tomOrrows a better day if not I might be changing the camshaft and crank sensors this week hoping that works and if not that might have to visit the stealership

joe.zajicek

Ok first things first I couldnt get the service engine soon light to blink while doing tr ecu reset but I did disconnect the battery for a period of time and that seemed to reset everything inside I was able to start car and get to work in one shot no problems so I'm not sure if yesterday was a fluke or I'll be seeing more behavior like that in the upcoming days on the mean time I'm considering rePlacing the spark plugs and doing an oil change any other maintainable someone could recommend

SparkleCityHop

iTrader: (30)

Sounds like that may have done the trick.


BTW, are you running a Cold Air Intake?

joe.zajicek

Yea full successful day without turning off which I'm glad .... And yes running nismo intake on the car but it's been on there for a while I read people having that issue but only thing with te intake I've noticed is that the car idles right below 500rpm which at times scares me but that's all I'm still going to call te stealers hip and see if I can see if there are any outstanding recalls on te sensors for my car hoping that something will come up from it and I'm goin to let the service advisor know what I experienced and see his input on it as well I can te the sensors at cost so I was almost thinking about changing them even if I don't get a cel if it happens again but I guess time will tell thanks for all you help guys stay tuned as I said tomorrow going to call Nissan and see what is said and I'll let you guys know

SparkleCityHop

iTrader: (30)

I've just seen folks with weird issues at both ends of the temperature spectrum when using a CAI. That's the only reason that I asked.

joe.zajicek

Yea I totally agree it seems the maf sensors are extremely sensitive on these cars

joe.zajicek

Ok wanted to put an update here past few days car has been fine I talked to the dealership te service manager told me possible fuel pump or bad gas maybe it was just a fluke at least that's what I'm hoping they also suggested maybe a fuel additive like tectron so I threw some of that into the gas hopin to clean up any issues goin to change the oil this weekend and change the spark plugs hope all goes well going forward can anyone suggest a good set of plugs for the car ngk? Colder? I have a greddy evo2 exhaust and test pipes and nismo intake thanks guys

SparkleCityHop

iTrader: (30)

I think a lot of the NA folks use the NGK Iridium plugs. You don't need colder plugs unless you're running nitrous or FI.