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Can you use a speedbleeder to bleed the clutch?

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Old Jan 17, 2012 | 08:35 AM
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Default Can you use a speedbleeder to bleed the clutch?

I got the HD slave cylinder from Z speed and noticed that the bleeder screw could be replaced with a speedbleeder kinda like what you would use for your brakes.

Has anyone ever used one of those for the clutch? Its such a pain to find people to come help bleed the clutch and figured this could make life so much easier.

Do you guys see this working? anyone try it? If so which speedbleeder did you buy? (ie size)
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Old Jan 17, 2012 | 08:41 AM
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I've never used one for the clutch lines, but I don't see why not. Although, I've read differing opinions on which way to bleed the line, i.e. through the slave vs. through the master.
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Old Jan 17, 2012 | 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by musubi
I've never used one for the clutch lines, but I don't see why not. Although, I've read differing opinions on which way to bleed the line, i.e. through the slave vs. through the master.
How would you bleed the line through the master on the Z?
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Old Jan 17, 2012 | 08:50 AM
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We have alot of experience with the Zspeed CSC and we have found that gravity bleeding is the best way...
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Old Jan 17, 2012 | 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Vince@R/TTuning
We have alot of experience with the Zspeed CSC and we have found that gravity bleeding is the best way...
Hmm ok so , just open the bleeder screw and top off fluid right?

How long should i let the valve open for?

Edit : i dont have to pump the pedal with this method right?
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Old Jan 17, 2012 | 11:09 AM
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^ do i have the procedure right???
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Old Jan 17, 2012 | 11:15 AM
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I contacted speed bleeder years ago, but they didn't know which model would work for Z's bleeder screw. So I scraped the idea and just used gravity bleeding.
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Old Jan 18, 2012 | 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Junkster
How would you bleed the line through the master on the Z?
From my readings in this forum, some people have issues bleeding the clutch through the slave. Since the air bubbles want to go up, sometimes not all the air is pushed out. The other way is to push the fluid up from the slave and out the master. I've heard this method is a sure way to rid the lines of all air. There's also some youtube videos on it.

I can't speak for how well the gravity method works on our Z's. If it works good, then use it. I think it would be easier. Let us know if you can use that speed bleeder.
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Old Jan 18, 2012 | 09:44 AM
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and yet another option is replacing the reservoir with one that has a compatible motiv attachment. I think there is a DIY here for that -

https://my350z.com/forum/engine-driv...voir-swap.html

something i've been curious about doing since my clutch will need replacing at some point..
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Old Jan 18, 2012 | 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Junkster
^ do i have the procedure right???

Sorry for the delay, pretty much just crack the bleeder, fill the resovoir and leave the cap off... we let them gravity bleed for about 1.5 hours. We have found it best not to pump the pedal.
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Old Jan 18, 2012 | 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Vince@R/TTuning
Sorry for the delay, pretty much just crack the bleeder, fill the resovoir and leave the cap off... we let them gravity bleed for about 1.5 hours. We have found it best not to pump the pedal.
Anyone else comment on this method, I did the pedal and took forever, but still not happy with feel. I will have to try this method next.
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Old Jan 19, 2012 | 07:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Vince@R/TTuning
Sorry for the delay, pretty much just crack the bleeder, fill the resovoir and leave the cap off... we let them gravity bleed for about 1.5 hours. We have found it best not to pump the pedal.
Not a problem, i should have spent more time searching than asking to begin with! (Newbish move on my part lol)

wow 1.5 hours eh? I noticed the fluid going down pretty damn fast when i did it to have to stand there for 1.5 hours refilling the reservoir with fluid lol...

Then again I guess i only removed and cleaned the master after i had already replaced and bled the slave (prior) cause i was able to just let it drain for about 30 minutes or so, but i guess it was mostly cause i only had to "bleed" the master and everything else technically already have fluid in it...

Regardless i have some updates:

1) Gravity bleed was way more effective than conventional bleeding! I havent driven the car but pedal feel is night and day difference from doing it the other way.

2) After my CSC blew up from drifting i replaced it with the HD one from Zspeed and i never cleaned out the master when i did the swap. After talking with Joe over at Zspeed he advised that was maybe something to consider as that is what he usually does. I took my master apart last night and cleaned it out and man was that thing nasty lookin...looks like it had stagnant 2 year old black fluid in there! Mind you this was after bleeding the fawk out of it prior!

Lessons learned:

When replacing the CSC clean out that stupid master! And go ahead and use gravity bleeding technique over anything else when bleeding the system...definately made the whole process ALOT more enjoyable!!!

Thanks for the prompt replies, hopefully someone will find this usefull someday
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Old Jan 19, 2012 | 07:03 AM
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Originally Posted by mw9
Anyone else comment on this method, I did the pedal and took forever, but still not happy with feel. I will have to try this method next.
Refer to post above haha
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Old Jan 19, 2012 | 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Junkster
Not a problem, i should have spent more time searching than asking to begin with! (Newbish move on my part lol)

wow 1.5 hours eh? I noticed the fluid going down pretty damn fast when i did it to have to stand there for 1.5 hours refilling the reservoir with fluid lol...

Then again I guess i only removed and cleaned the master after i had already replaced and bled the slave (prior) cause i was able to just let it drain for about 30 minutes or so, but i guess it was mostly cause i only had to "bleed" the master and everything else technically already have fluid in it...

Regardless i have some updates:

1) Gravity bleed was way more effective than conventional bleeding! I havent driven the car but pedal feel is night and day difference from doing it the other way.

2) After my CSC blew up from drifting i replaced it with the HD one from Zspeed and i never cleaned out the master when i did the swap. After talking with Joe over at Zspeed he advised that was maybe something to consider as that is what he usually does. I took my master apart last night and cleaned it out and man was that thing nasty lookin...looks like it had stagnant 2 year old black fluid in there! Mind you this was after bleeding the fawk out of it prior!

Lessons learned:

When replacing the CSC clean out that stupid master! And go ahead and use gravity bleeding technique over anything else when bleeding the system...definately made the whole process ALOT more enjoyable!!!

Thanks for the prompt replies, hopefully someone will find this usefull someday
Im glad it worked out for ya!! We have found that when the air is 100% out the fluid starts to actually drip slower, that is why you are able to let it sit that long. The last hour it drips real slow. Its prob a lil overkill but we have had so many bleeding issue with these internaal slaves, I wanna make sure all the air is out
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Old Jan 20, 2012 | 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Vince@R/TTuning
Im glad it worked out for ya!! We have found that when the air is 100% out the fluid starts to actually drip slower, that is why you are able to let it sit that long. The last hour it drips real slow. Its prob a lil overkill but we have had so many bleeding issue with these internaal slaves, I wanna make sure all the air is out
I know what you mean, i have NEVER had so many issues bleeding a clutch like i had on the Z...I though I was going crazy haha

I remember when i took out my old slave and got the new HD one in the mail. "How the fawk does this thing work? this is the bleeder line? huh?!! alrighhhhttttt thennn" lol its a pretty strange setup IMHO

Hopefully this will help people out in the future! Gravity bleed = 100% easy success! *megusta.jpg*
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Old Jan 20, 2012 | 12:16 PM
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In my experience it has to be pump bled also, If not the fluid will simply run through the lines and never get the air out of the slave. Once the slave is extended all the way out from pumping the pedal, you pop the bleeder, the clutch plate relaxes and that is what pushes the slave back and the air out of the slave and out the bleed line. We are working on this to try and make it easier to bleed. We may end up having a quick connect type line and have the slave pre filled/bled with fluid so you do not have to bleed it at all.

In other news....

The new master cylinder set-up we are working on for the 07-08 350Z makes bleeding a breeze, It literally takes about 4 pedal pumps to bleed the system with it. The stock master cylinder has such a tiny hole in it where the fluid goes in and out it does not like to return after you pop the bleeder the first time.
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Old Jan 20, 2012 | 12:47 PM
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^^^ I hear ya. We pump bleed every single other car that we end up doin a slave or master on....but we have probably done about a dozen or so HR and 370z/G37 and the first several we spend hours and had customers come back several times to fully bleed the system. Since we have been gravity bleeding them they have been a once and done thing and from the first pump the pedal feels like it should...
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Old Jan 20, 2012 | 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by CuztompartZ
In my experience it has to be pump bled also, If not the fluid will simply run through the lines and never get the air out of the slave. Once the slave is extended all the way out from pumping the pedal, you pop the bleeder, the clutch plate relaxes and that is what pushes the slave back and the air out of the slave and out the bleed line. We are working on this to try and make it easier to bleed. We may end up having a quick connect type line and have the slave pre filled/bled with fluid so you do not have to bleed it at all.

In other news....

The new master cylinder set-up we are working on for the 07-08 350Z makes bleeding a breeze, It literally takes about 4 pedal pumps to bleed the system with it. The stock master cylinder has such a tiny hole in it where the fluid goes in and out it does not like to return after you pop the bleeder the first time.
It could have been a mixture of things, maybe cause i cleaned the master like you advised and the slave was already "filled" since i bled it already prior to taking the master out.

BTW, i took those pics of my adjustment screw placement. Do you have an email or something so i can send em to you. I remember you had asked me to send you a video or pics..well i snapped some when i took out the master.

Have you guys finished the master setup? Did you still want me to R&R it?
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Old Jan 20, 2012 | 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Junkster
It could have been a mixture of things, maybe cause i cleaned the master like you advised and the slave was already "filled" since i bled it already prior to taking the master out.

BTW, i took those pics of my adjustment screw placement. Do you have an email or something so i can send em to you. I remember you had asked me to send you a video or pics..well i snapped some when i took out the master.

Have you guys finished the master setup? Did you still want me to R&R it?
I was just trying to help you with getting it correct, If you have it now no need.

Our e-mail is Sales@Zspeedperformance.com

Last edited by ZSpeedPerformance; Jan 20, 2012 at 09:21 PM.
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Old Jan 20, 2012 | 04:34 PM
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yes speed bleeders work on clutch systems too
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