Knock Pop Rear Shocks? over Bumps. Final Answers
Hi everyone,
I have seen the posts here on the site. However, there does not seem to be an actual answer. A lot of the drivers have the issue it seems and they have theories on how what the real cause is or design flaw. But then they never came back to tell if they found a fix.
My car is an 08 with only 14.5k miles (its 2012 right now) so the car has low miles and really a creampuff. But when I go over bumps I can hear the pop / knock from what sounds like the rear shocks and I would like to get it fixed before it gets worse. I only have 15 more days on my warranty and I would like to direct them a bit rather then get the brush off. Help LOL !!!
Thanks
PS- You know whats funny is this morning it was cold (and the sound was light.) I was on the Garden State parkway all day and now its 50 degrees (and the sound is goneeee) I guess the cols make the bolt shrink / warmth makes the bolt swell and thats why people see the change with weather.
I have seen the posts here on the site. However, there does not seem to be an actual answer. A lot of the drivers have the issue it seems and they have theories on how what the real cause is or design flaw. But then they never came back to tell if they found a fix.
My car is an 08 with only 14.5k miles (its 2012 right now) so the car has low miles and really a creampuff. But when I go over bumps I can hear the pop / knock from what sounds like the rear shocks and I would like to get it fixed before it gets worse. I only have 15 more days on my warranty and I would like to direct them a bit rather then get the brush off. Help LOL !!!
Thanks
PS- You know whats funny is this morning it was cold (and the sound was light.) I was on the Garden State parkway all day and now its 50 degrees (and the sound is goneeee) I guess the cols make the bolt shrink / warmth makes the bolt swell and thats why people see the change with weather.
Last edited by 08EG; Feb 10, 2012 at 11:39 AM.
There are plenty of answers. Listen to the videos we all posted. Most of us had the same problem and same sound. If you hear the same clunking sound, it's the bolt on your strut fork that's wobbling around. Tightening it down doesn't do crap, it'll come loose again because it develops rust around the treading.
You'll need to insert something to prevent the bolt from wobbling around - a spacer of some sort.
You'll need to insert something to prevent the bolt from wobbling around - a spacer of some sort.
Hi ArnoldK,
Thanks for responding! I did actually see you in the related threads and I noticed your response. (I spent two days reading before I posted this question so I could be informed) Did that work? From what I see ... you continued to have the issue and even changed to 05 shocks/struts .. then had the problem again soon after.
I see you live in NY. I live in Northern NJ. Did you fix this yourself or do you know a mechanic that really understands the 350z? The fix you suggests seems really sensible.
Did anyone else have the same result as Arnold? I have seen other posters make some claim to have a fix ... then "poof" they never respond with their results.
Its so strange that Nissan could overlook such a thing. Did they ever admit to this as an issue?
Thanks again
Thanks for responding! I did actually see you in the related threads and I noticed your response. (I spent two days reading before I posted this question so I could be informed) Did that work? From what I see ... you continued to have the issue and even changed to 05 shocks/struts .. then had the problem again soon after.
I see you live in NY. I live in Northern NJ. Did you fix this yourself or do you know a mechanic that really understands the 350z? The fix you suggests seems really sensible.
Did anyone else have the same result as Arnold? I have seen other posters make some claim to have a fix ... then "poof" they never respond with their results.
Its so strange that Nissan could overlook such a thing. Did they ever admit to this as an issue?
Thanks again
Last edited by 08EG; Feb 9, 2012 at 06:01 AM.
I just called Nissan 1-800-Nissan-1 and everyone who has this problem should.
It was quick and easy, have your VIN ready and ask to "Document the Issue."
Basically, the more documented claims and dealer services for the issue the greater chance of a "Campaign or Recall" as they may research the problem at a corporate level. If they launch one we can claim it at any time in the future so might as well be on board.
If this problem is truly a hardware issue with the screw being two skinny for the strut / shock fork and the gasket connecting at the top to the car ... then this is cheaper (and more effective) while actually fixing the problem.
Its worth a shot and easy to literally make a two minute phone call.
Lets see
It was quick and easy, have your VIN ready and ask to "Document the Issue."
Basically, the more documented claims and dealer services for the issue the greater chance of a "Campaign or Recall" as they may research the problem at a corporate level. If they launch one we can claim it at any time in the future so might as well be on board.
If this problem is truly a hardware issue with the screw being two skinny for the strut / shock fork and the gasket connecting at the top to the car ... then this is cheaper (and more effective) while actually fixing the problem.
Its worth a shot and easy to literally make a two minute phone call.
Lets see
My issue was solved every time I retorqued that particular bolt. Changing the actual shock stopped the noise for many months, yes, until the bolt began to rattle about again. By then, I didn't care for the car anymore and was trading it in for the 370Z, but I knew that every time that bolt was torqued down the noise stopped. Eventually, the noise would return faster and faster because the tread developed rust and little cracks in the tread would form (some of these strut fork bolts did not have zinc coating on them, which caused them to rust and wobble ever so slightly).
I will have a shop be able to do the work for you in the very, very near future. About 4-6 weeks or so? But it'll be here in the Queens/Long Island area. It'll probably be about a 40-50 mile drive for you.
I will have a shop be able to do the work for you in the very, very near future. About 4-6 weeks or so? But it'll be here in the Queens/Long Island area. It'll probably be about a 40-50 mile drive for you.
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My issue was solved every time I retorqued that particular bolt. Changing the actual shock stopped the noise for many months, yes, until the bolt began to rattle about again. By then, I didn't care for the car anymore and was trading it in for the 370Z, but I knew that every time that bolt was torqued down the noise stopped. Eventually, the noise would return faster and faster because the tread developed rust and little cracks in the tread would form (some of these strut fork bolts did not have zinc coating on them, which caused them to rust and wobble ever so slightly).
I will have a shop be able to do the work for you in the very, very near future. About 4-6 weeks or so? But it'll be here in the Queens/Long Island area. It'll probably be about a 40-50 mile drive for you.
I will have a shop be able to do the work for you in the very, very near future. About 4-6 weeks or so? But it'll be here in the Queens/Long Island area. It'll probably be about a 40-50 mile drive for you.
Thanks again !!!!!!
It seems you really honed into this issue and I appreciate all your effort.
I can wait for the referral (im in no rush) and look forward to it! Queens or Long Island are not too far for me to travel and get my car cared for properly. I look forward to hearing from you soon (feel free to PM or post in this thread either way)
Thanks again !
FIXED FIXED FIXED FIXED FIXED FIXED !!!!!
My dealer has a mechanic who knows the 350z well and has been working with Nissan since the 300z came out.
He replaced both shock absorber spring assemblies (all accessories related to the shocks)
2 of each
55338-AL500 seal-shock abso
55323-Ar00A tube-rr mounting
55322-al500 bracket asmy-sh
56218-ag000 bush-rear shock
55248-2y00a cover-bound bum
55240-cf40a bumper asmy-bou
e6b10-cf40c absorber kit-sh
56217-ag000 bush-rear shock
Hope that helps others with the rattle
Now I just gotta work on a light dash rattle from the passenger side. Anyone know what the deal is with that dash rattle?
My dealer has a mechanic who knows the 350z well and has been working with Nissan since the 300z came out.
He replaced both shock absorber spring assemblies (all accessories related to the shocks)
2 of each
55338-AL500 seal-shock abso
55323-Ar00A tube-rr mounting
55322-al500 bracket asmy-sh
56218-ag000 bush-rear shock
55248-2y00a cover-bound bum
55240-cf40a bumper asmy-bou
e6b10-cf40c absorber kit-sh
56217-ag000 bush-rear shock
Hope that helps others with the rattleNow I just gotta work on a light dash rattle from the passenger side. Anyone know what the deal is with that dash rattle?
Arnold gave me some insight on this and I mentioned it all to my mechanic. So, I was on the last few miles of the warranty and supposedly they changed "all" the hardware.
I will keep you all informed.
I will keep you all informed.
Yeah .. its back. I had it fixed after a winter going into spring. Winter is back now and so is the sound. It makes sense as heat makes things swell and tighten up and the cold shrinks. I got a recomendation to a Z mechanic group in NY and I just found one much closer to where I live. Gonna give it another shot.
Anyone consider the sway bar needing lubrication?
Anyone consider the sway bar needing lubrication?
Swaybar lubrication did not fix it. Nissan did it for me.
Just gotta buckle down and speak with a mechanic (who I think I found) who is willing to work with me on making a spacer for the shock/strut fork bolt thing.
If anyone else recently has had success with this fix, PLEASE let us all know. I am seeing a lot of posts about it again since it got cold for the winter.
Just gotta buckle down and speak with a mechanic (who I think I found) who is willing to work with me on making a spacer for the shock/strut fork bolt thing.
If anyone else recently has had success with this fix, PLEASE let us all know. I am seeing a lot of posts about it again since it got cold for the winter.
I did the fix with the spacers last Spetember and the clunk never came back.
I used some o-rings form the injectors as spacers as I couldn't find anything else at hand then. In case the o-rings will fail in time I will try with some reinforced rubber tube matching the dimensions or I will just make some serious polyurethane spacers.
I used some o-rings form the injectors as spacers as I couldn't find anything else at hand then. In case the o-rings will fail in time I will try with some reinforced rubber tube matching the dimensions or I will just make some serious polyurethane spacers.
I did the fix with the spacers last Spetember and the clunk never came back.
I used some o-rings form the injectors as spacers as I couldn't find anything else at hand then. In case the o-rings will fail in time I will try with some reinforced rubber tube matching the dimensions or I will just make some serious polyurethane spacers.
I used some o-rings form the injectors as spacers as I couldn't find anything else at hand then. In case the o-rings will fail in time I will try with some reinforced rubber tube matching the dimensions or I will just make some serious polyurethane spacers.
Did you also add any foam in the cavity above the sock? Or any custom gasket where it attaches to the car?
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