Leak at fuel regulator during nitrous install - then it gets worse
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 4,293
Likes: 2
From: Spartanburg(SparkleCity), SC
Okay. So I was installing my dynotune kit on the car late last night and was losing daylight, so I was in a hurry (never good, right). I should have known better, but I decided to hurry and try to get the car to a point where it would be drivable, however…
1) In order to save time, I didn't take the trouble of using Cipher to take all fuel pressure off before installing the fuel rail, so I used a rag, but still spilled some fuel while disconnecting and adding the adapter to the passenger side of the fuel rail at the regulator.
2) I had some trouble getting the fuel rail adapter to seat properly while installing it.
3) After getting it cabled up, I did not see any obvious leaks with the ignition off. Since it was pretty dark at that point, I turned on the ignition and didn't see gas spraying out, so that was a good sign. I couldn't do the smell test, etc. because I had already spilled gas in #1 above.
4) I started the car up and immediately smelled gas, so I shut her down. And with a light, I could see a lot of fuel on everything in the engine compartment near the adapter.
5) Thinking that it had to be something with the new adapter, I decided to back out of the installation and remove the adapter, since everything had been fine before the installation. I removed the adapter, and returned it back to normal. However, here is where things really began to go sideways. Since I was in a hurry, I wasn't using my torque wrench - and I tightened one of the two bolts down too tight and the head popped off. FUUUUUUG ME!
6)As if having a broken bolt wasn't bad enough, it is leaking horribly if I turn on the ignition and the fuel pump brings up pressure.
So at this point, I can't start my car (or even turn the switch) without fuel spraying everywhere. In fact, it sprays bad enough that I can't turn on the ignition long enough to get Cipher connected up to drop the fuel pressure.
My thoughts on a plan of action:
1) Find the fuse for the fuel pump and pull it long enough to get cipher connected and active
2) Use cipher to drop fuel pressure
3) Disconnect fuel rail
4) Try to get broken bolt out (somehow?)
5) Install new o-rings
6) Check everything for cracks/damage
Does anyone else have any other bright ideas/suggestions?
Thanks.
1) In order to save time, I didn't take the trouble of using Cipher to take all fuel pressure off before installing the fuel rail, so I used a rag, but still spilled some fuel while disconnecting and adding the adapter to the passenger side of the fuel rail at the regulator.
2) I had some trouble getting the fuel rail adapter to seat properly while installing it.
3) After getting it cabled up, I did not see any obvious leaks with the ignition off. Since it was pretty dark at that point, I turned on the ignition and didn't see gas spraying out, so that was a good sign. I couldn't do the smell test, etc. because I had already spilled gas in #1 above.
4) I started the car up and immediately smelled gas, so I shut her down. And with a light, I could see a lot of fuel on everything in the engine compartment near the adapter.
5) Thinking that it had to be something with the new adapter, I decided to back out of the installation and remove the adapter, since everything had been fine before the installation. I removed the adapter, and returned it back to normal. However, here is where things really began to go sideways. Since I was in a hurry, I wasn't using my torque wrench - and I tightened one of the two bolts down too tight and the head popped off. FUUUUUUG ME!
6)As if having a broken bolt wasn't bad enough, it is leaking horribly if I turn on the ignition and the fuel pump brings up pressure.
So at this point, I can't start my car (or even turn the switch) without fuel spraying everywhere. In fact, it sprays bad enough that I can't turn on the ignition long enough to get Cipher connected up to drop the fuel pressure.
My thoughts on a plan of action:
1) Find the fuse for the fuel pump and pull it long enough to get cipher connected and active
2) Use cipher to drop fuel pressure
3) Disconnect fuel rail
4) Try to get broken bolt out (somehow?)
5) Install new o-rings
6) Check everything for cracks/damage
Does anyone else have any other bright ideas/suggestions?
Thanks.
Last edited by SparkleCityHop; Mar 18, 2012 at 03:05 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 4,293
Likes: 2
From: Spartanburg(SparkleCity), SC
I took everything back apart and the o ring on the original connector was gone. It must have torn and popped loose during the installation last night and I didn't see it since it was dark. Headed to buy new o rings and buy some needle nose vice grips to try and remove the broken bolt.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 4,293
Likes: 2
From: Spartanburg(SparkleCity), SC
Woohoo!
I bought a pair of small needle nose vice grips and was able to the the bolt out pretty easily:

I went to 3 different auto parts stores and had them try to look up the o rings and neither of the first two could find them. The third one found it, but they were special order items and they couldn't give me an estimated turnaround time. So I started doing a little investigating on my own. I knew that I had to stick to o rings for fuel since any others wouldn't hold up to the gasoline.
I was able to find this pack that looked like it had what I needed, so I bought it and it worked great. I wanted to include it in case anyone else on here later ends up needing an o ring in a pinch:
I bought a pair of small needle nose vice grips and was able to the the bolt out pretty easily:
I went to 3 different auto parts stores and had them try to look up the o rings and neither of the first two could find them. The third one found it, but they were special order items and they couldn't give me an estimated turnaround time. So I started doing a little investigating on my own. I knew that I had to stick to o rings for fuel since any others wouldn't hold up to the gasoline.
I was able to find this pack that looked like it had what I needed, so I bought it and it worked great. I wanted to include it in case anyone else on here later ends up needing an o ring in a pinch:
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