What's the easiest way to bleed the clutch?
08-09-2012, 07:43 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
What's the easiest way to bleed the clutch?
I've got a 2007 350z that falls outside of the slave cylinder recall. I've been having intermittent problems with the clutch, so I ordered a new slave cylinder. It should be here in the morning, and I've got transmission dropped and the old slave out.
What's the easiest way to bleed the clutch? Keep in mind this is a 2007, so procedures for 2006 and earlier do not apply.
What's the easiest way to bleed the clutch? Keep in mind this is a 2007, so procedures for 2006 and earlier do not apply.
08-09-2012, 08:58 PM
#3
Registered User
"I'm trying to bleed an 07, not that clustereff 06 or that pretty reasonable 03 to 05".
Really enjoyed that.
08-09-2012, 09:01 PM
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
bleed from the slave up. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wdf--suwqw0 its a lot easier than the conventional way
08-10-2012, 07:31 AM
#6
Patrick
Here is my twist on the reverse bleed method. I used it on my 09' G37 last weekend when I did a complete drain, flush and refill with high temp DOT 4.
My method below worked Fantastic! first try.
What I did was grab one of those cheap plastic brake bleeder kits from Napa, O-Rilley's etc that has a plastic cup with a lid and two ports on top. One port has a hose going to the bottom of the cup inside, the other is a vent port.
What I did was take some hose and connected the vent port to a shop air blowgun set down to about 4psi max. This effectively makes a small and extremely cheap reverse pressure bleeder setup...I had about $10 invested total.
Now if you still have fluid in the clutch reservoir suck it all out with a syringe (Walmart has large ones for mixing 2-stroke oil that works great for this)
Fill the bleeder cup 3/4 full with new fluid and screw it shut.
Now attach a line from the port (with the tube to bottom inside cup) to the bleed screw at the slave.
Next crack the bleeder valve open and slowly pressurize the cup with the blow gun.
You'll see the fluid go up the tube and into the slave filling the system with fluid from the bottom up.
This pushes any air up the clutch line and out the master cylinder in the direction it naturally wants to go just like the video.
Have someone watch the clutch reservoir as it fills and stop once its filled up to max line.
Close the bleeder screw and your done.
If it looks like any crap or dark fluid came up you can suck the fluid from the reservoir again and refill with more fresh fluid.
Hope that helps.
PS I tried to post a quick hand sketch I just made of the setup but it won't post for some reason from the computer I'm at. I'll try posting it again once I get back home.
Cheers
Ryan
Here is my twist on the reverse bleed method. I used it on my 09' G37 last weekend when I did a complete drain, flush and refill with high temp DOT 4.
My method below worked Fantastic! first try.
What I did was grab one of those cheap plastic brake bleeder kits from Napa, O-Rilley's etc that has a plastic cup with a lid and two ports on top. One port has a hose going to the bottom of the cup inside, the other is a vent port.
What I did was take some hose and connected the vent port to a shop air blowgun set down to about 4psi max. This effectively makes a small and extremely cheap reverse pressure bleeder setup...I had about $10 invested total.
Now if you still have fluid in the clutch reservoir suck it all out with a syringe (Walmart has large ones for mixing 2-stroke oil that works great for this)
Fill the bleeder cup 3/4 full with new fluid and screw it shut.
Now attach a line from the port (with the tube to bottom inside cup) to the bleed screw at the slave.
Next crack the bleeder valve open and slowly pressurize the cup with the blow gun.
You'll see the fluid go up the tube and into the slave filling the system with fluid from the bottom up.
This pushes any air up the clutch line and out the master cylinder in the direction it naturally wants to go just like the video.
Have someone watch the clutch reservoir as it fills and stop once its filled up to max line.
Close the bleeder screw and your done.
If it looks like any crap or dark fluid came up you can suck the fluid from the reservoir again and refill with more fresh fluid.
Hope that helps.
PS I tried to post a quick hand sketch I just made of the setup but it won't post for some reason from the computer I'm at. I'll try posting it again once I get back home.
Cheers
Ryan
08-10-2012, 10:33 AM
#7
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Sweden
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Go to this link,
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/350Z/coupe/2007/cl.pdf
Flip to page 7, there you will find the Nissan method to bleed your 350z 2007 clutch. Did it on mine after clutch update worked fine.
Regards
Mikael
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/350Z/coupe/2007/cl.pdf
Flip to page 7, there you will find the Nissan method to bleed your 350z 2007 clutch. Did it on mine after clutch update worked fine.
Regards
Mikael
Trending Topics
08-10-2012, 05:59 PM
#8
Registered User
Thread Starter
Patrick
Here is my twist on the reverse bleed method. I used it on my 09' G37 last weekend when I did a complete drain, flush and refill with high temp DOT 4.
My method below worked Fantastic! first try.
What I did was grab one of those cheap plastic brake bleeder kits from Napa, O-Rilley's etc that has a plastic cup with a lid and two ports on top. One port has a hose going to the bottom of the cup inside, the other is a vent port.
What I did was take some hose and connected the vent port to a shop air blowgun set down to about 4psi max. This effectively makes a small and extremely cheap reverse pressure bleeder setup...I had about $10 invested total.
Now if you still have fluid in the clutch reservoir suck it all out with a syringe (Walmart has large ones for mixing 2-stroke oil that works great for this)
Fill the bleeder cup 3/4 full with new fluid and screw it shut.
Now attach a line from the port (with the tube to bottom inside cup) to the bleed screw at the slave.
Next crack the bleeder valve open and slowly pressurize the cup with the blow gun.
You'll see the fluid go up the tube and into the slave filling the system with fluid from the bottom up.
This pushes any air up the clutch line and out the master cylinder in the direction it naturally wants to go just like the video.
Have someone watch the clutch reservoir as it fills and stop once its filled up to max line.
Close the bleeder screw and your done.
If it looks like any crap or dark fluid came up you can suck the fluid from the reservoir again and refill with more fresh fluid.
Hope that helps.
PS I tried to post a quick hand sketch I just made of the setup but it won't post for some reason from the computer I'm at. I'll try posting it again once I get back home.
Cheers
Ryan
Here is my twist on the reverse bleed method. I used it on my 09' G37 last weekend when I did a complete drain, flush and refill with high temp DOT 4.
My method below worked Fantastic! first try.
What I did was grab one of those cheap plastic brake bleeder kits from Napa, O-Rilley's etc that has a plastic cup with a lid and two ports on top. One port has a hose going to the bottom of the cup inside, the other is a vent port.
What I did was take some hose and connected the vent port to a shop air blowgun set down to about 4psi max. This effectively makes a small and extremely cheap reverse pressure bleeder setup...I had about $10 invested total.
Now if you still have fluid in the clutch reservoir suck it all out with a syringe (Walmart has large ones for mixing 2-stroke oil that works great for this)
Fill the bleeder cup 3/4 full with new fluid and screw it shut.
Now attach a line from the port (with the tube to bottom inside cup) to the bleed screw at the slave.
Next crack the bleeder valve open and slowly pressurize the cup with the blow gun.
You'll see the fluid go up the tube and into the slave filling the system with fluid from the bottom up.
This pushes any air up the clutch line and out the master cylinder in the direction it naturally wants to go just like the video.
Have someone watch the clutch reservoir as it fills and stop once its filled up to max line.
Close the bleeder screw and your done.
If it looks like any crap or dark fluid came up you can suck the fluid from the reservoir again and refill with more fresh fluid.
Hope that helps.
PS I tried to post a quick hand sketch I just made of the setup but it won't post for some reason from the computer I'm at. I'll try posting it again once I get back home.
Cheers
Ryan
08-10-2012, 06:02 PM
#9
Repeat from another thread I posted in:
I posted this a while ago when i replaced the OEM CSC with another OEM CSC. If they follow this it should giveyou fullybled system,it took me a good 6 hrs to nail down.
1. Make sure clutch pedal is adjusted properly, mine had been previously adjust and didn't have enough throw to really get things moving
2. slowly compress pedal and release pedal (about 2 sec each way)
3. wait 10 seconds b4 pushing pedal again
4. repeat about 10 times - These iterations will drop when you feel pressure building up on the pedal
5. with pedal on the floor open bleeder (careful pedal dosent move at all) - watch all the pretty air bubbles come out and then close the valve
6. Pull the clutch pedal up as high as it can move and hold it there for at least 30 seconds, I HAD TO DO THIS as we were moving too fast to start steps 2 thru 4 and not allowing the fluid in the reservoir to flow into the system (damn orifice block causes this). We wasted about 3 hrs because we didn't allow for this extra time and then we'd have a spungy pedal on the first pump and bubbles in the line, started the long pause after cracking the bleeder valve and we were done in 10 mins.
7. when pedal returns fully with one pump it is fully bled
I posted this a while ago when i replaced the OEM CSC with another OEM CSC. If they follow this it should giveyou fullybled system,it took me a good 6 hrs to nail down.
1. Make sure clutch pedal is adjusted properly, mine had been previously adjust and didn't have enough throw to really get things moving
2. slowly compress pedal and release pedal (about 2 sec each way)
3. wait 10 seconds b4 pushing pedal again
4. repeat about 10 times - These iterations will drop when you feel pressure building up on the pedal
5. with pedal on the floor open bleeder (careful pedal dosent move at all) - watch all the pretty air bubbles come out and then close the valve
6. Pull the clutch pedal up as high as it can move and hold it there for at least 30 seconds, I HAD TO DO THIS as we were moving too fast to start steps 2 thru 4 and not allowing the fluid in the reservoir to flow into the system (damn orifice block causes this). We wasted about 3 hrs because we didn't allow for this extra time and then we'd have a spungy pedal on the first pump and bubbles in the line, started the long pause after cracking the bleeder valve and we were done in 10 mins.
7. when pedal returns fully with one pump it is fully bled
08-10-2012, 06:19 PM
#10
Registered User
Thread Starter
I think I've found a cheap bleeder at Sears like Ryan described that will work with a little compressed air to reverse bleed the system. I'm going to try that first.
If that doesn't work for what ever reason, I'll give Ian's method a try.
I'll post back, hopefully on Tuesday, and let y'all know how it worked out.
If that doesn't work for what ever reason, I'll give Ian's method a try.
I'll post back, hopefully on Tuesday, and let y'all know how it worked out.
08-14-2012, 08:04 PM
#12
Registered User
Thread Starter
I tried Ryan's method, and could not get it to work. The bleeder I bought even had the word "pump" on the lid for the extra port. It leaked air like crazy around the lid, and I saw air bubbles in what fluid did go into the bleeder valve. Perhaps a better bleeder would work better. I let it go for a while anyway, but no fluid ever made it to the reservoir.
I moved on to Ian's method. First I filled the reservoir, then I cracked the line on the master cylinder open. A good bit of air came out, then fluid. I figured this would give me a head start. I followed the instructions for pumping and holding the pedal, but it never gets close to firm. It always returns to the top on it's own, which I found strange. Opening the bleeder with the pedal depressed results in a small amount of fluid dribbling out, and the occasional pocket of air.
I've been at it all evening, and I'm calling it quits now. I can't believe it's taking longer to get this thing bled than it did to reinstall the transmission. I'll give it another try tomorrow, but it will most likely be Thursday before I can mess with it again.
I moved on to Ian's method. First I filled the reservoir, then I cracked the line on the master cylinder open. A good bit of air came out, then fluid. I figured this would give me a head start. I followed the instructions for pumping and holding the pedal, but it never gets close to firm. It always returns to the top on it's own, which I found strange. Opening the bleeder with the pedal depressed results in a small amount of fluid dribbling out, and the occasional pocket of air.
I've been at it all evening, and I'm calling it quits now. I can't believe it's taking longer to get this thing bled than it did to reinstall the transmission. I'll give it another try tomorrow, but it will most likely be Thursday before I can mess with it again.
08-15-2012, 05:43 AM
#13
Patrick sorry to hear you're having troubles. Two things I didn't mention was I had my bleeder screw open about 1 full turn (wide open) and the cap off the reservoir so it could vent. Although my little pressure pot didn't leak hardly any air when it was screwed on tight so that might be the difference and I saw no air going up the line except for the initial few seconds as the air in the hose went up ahead of the fluid.
Just a Note with Ian's method if the master is air locked you'll need to adjust the AFP slider all the way to the bottom (stock setting- RJM Pedal's ONLY) in order to get the master to push all the air out. Otherwise the piston doesn't go full stroke and leaves air behind that will never be forced down the clutch line.
Hope Thursday goes better for you.
Just a Note with Ian's method if the master is air locked you'll need to adjust the AFP slider all the way to the bottom (stock setting- RJM Pedal's ONLY) in order to get the master to push all the air out. Otherwise the piston doesn't go full stroke and leaves air behind that will never be forced down the clutch line.
Hope Thursday goes better for you.
08-15-2012, 06:20 AM
#14
Patrick sorry to hear you're having troubles. Two things I didn't mention was I had my bleeder screw open about 1 full turn (wide open) and the cap off the reservoir so it could vent. Although my little pressure pot didn't leak hardly any air when it was screwed on tight so that might be the difference and I saw no air going up the line except for the initial few seconds as the air in the hose went up ahead of the fluid.
Just a Note with Ian's method if the master is air locked you'll need to adjust the AFP slider all the way to the bottom (stock setting- RJM Pedal's ONLY) in order to get the master to push all the air out. Otherwise the piston doesn't go full stroke and leaves air behind that will never be forced down the clutch line.
Hope Thursday goes better for you.
Just a Note with Ian's method if the master is air locked you'll need to adjust the AFP slider all the way to the bottom (stock setting- RJM Pedal's ONLY) in order to get the master to push all the air out. Otherwise the piston doesn't go full stroke and leaves air behind that will never be forced down the clutch line.
Hope Thursday goes better for you.
You gotta move the master cylinder piston as much as possible.
08-15-2012, 01:41 PM
#15
Registered User
Thread Starter
I bought one of those oiler cans like in the video, and a turkey baster. I sucked all the fluid out of the reservoir that I could, and started pumping fluid through the bleeder. It took several hundred pumps, but the fluid finally started rising in the reservoir. It still takes no effort to push the clutch pedal, and it does not release. I'm going to pump another can through the system later and see if I just didn't get the last bit of air out. If that doesn't work, I'll adjust the slider to 0 and see if I can bleed it out using the regular method.
The only other thing I can think of is a defective master cylinder, but it looked absolutely fine when I took it apart to clean it. I was just a bit dirty. The rubber seals looked good, as did the bore.
The only other thing I can think of is a defective master cylinder, but it looked absolutely fine when I took it apart to clean it. I was just a bit dirty. The rubber seals looked good, as did the bore.
08-15-2012, 08:20 PM
#16
Registered User
Thread Starter
Sorry if everyone is getting tired of hearing about my bleeding adventure.
I finally got the thing to bleed. For me, both Ryan's and Ian's information was important. I moved the slider on my RJM pedal down to 0%, and backed the master cylinder rod out to get as much travel as I could. Then I moved onto Ian's method to bleed the air out. As I went, it took less and less pumps on the pedal for it to firm up. The disengagement point of the clutch also slowly moved up. I'm going to bleed it a bit more just to be sure every bit of air is out.
I really think Ian's advice should be a sticky, and include the bit about adjusting the M/C rod out, and setting the slider to 0% if you happen to have an RJM pedal.
Whenever the clutch wears out, I think I'll switch to the zspeed CSC, and master if I can get a fork that will work with the RJM pedal.
Thank you guys for all the advice.
I finally got the thing to bleed. For me, both Ryan's and Ian's information was important. I moved the slider on my RJM pedal down to 0%, and backed the master cylinder rod out to get as much travel as I could. Then I moved onto Ian's method to bleed the air out. As I went, it took less and less pumps on the pedal for it to firm up. The disengagement point of the clutch also slowly moved up. I'm going to bleed it a bit more just to be sure every bit of air is out.
I really think Ian's advice should be a sticky, and include the bit about adjusting the M/C rod out, and setting the slider to 0% if you happen to have an RJM pedal.
Whenever the clutch wears out, I think I'll switch to the zspeed CSC, and master if I can get a fork that will work with the RJM pedal.
Thank you guys for all the advice.
08-21-2012, 11:33 PM
#17
Glad to hear you finally got your clutch system bled. I've tried the video method (with the oil can) with my 91 pickup truck as well as with my 08 Z and seemed to bleed fine. Although, it helps when I have a second person to suck up the extra fluid and watch for bubbles. I've also read from CZP's website that air seems to get caught at the master and may need to bleed some fluid from the hard line connection to get any residual air out.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
350Z Project X
Suspension
9
10-10-2015 09:23 AM
