+1 on blue smoke being oil NOT fuel...

 

Rebuild would be a lot... it depends on what damage there is internally.

My bet is on the car being unturned or wrongly tuned after the install of the header. I would have taken out back to them and retuned.

 

So best bet, sell the thing and get a new one?

 

Yes, best bet, sell the thing and if you still want a Z, get another, at least now you'll have some knowledge on what issues plague some of the years of the Z and then you can go from there.

 

Rebuild:
depends on damage...
If you need to bore out shortblock or not.
I have New OEM pistons/rods that I will be pulling out of my motor for a build if you want them, say 200+ship and paypal..
Or
crank if damaged, 200 bux or so and bearings about 50.
Or
both...
Labor they will do it for 31 hours I just got quoted. that tear down, rebuild, and reinstall. hourly about 95-115

Better off to buy used motor 1000-1500 and 10-18 shop hours for swap out.. then part out your motor for like 500 bux...

J

 

Or just build up this motor and boost it and make it a beast! If you are considering a 14 Nismo I dont think money is really that big of an issue.

Since you have to take out the motor anyways it is just parts for upgrades.

When my head blew on my EP3 I took the opportunity to upgrade the head for my supercharger and it was money well spent, especially since it cost the same as if I were to rebuild mine due to labor.

 

That is so weird. When my head blew on my EP3 it was spitting blue smoke, and I figured since a cylinder was not firing it was unburned fuel. How the hell was it oil then? The damage was 4 bent valves. Not trying to question, trying to learn.

 

 

I am not sure i understand your post but if you had 4 bent valves what makes you think you WHERE NOT burning oil? lol

 

Well I figured it was fuel because the cylinder wasn't firing, and the blue smoke came out in a sequence such as a certain cylinder firing each time blowing out the smoke.

Car still drove. The car revved to 13k rpm lol. Let a friend drive after I boosted and went from 2nd back to 1st by mistake at redline.

 

Hmm.. So the actual parts inside the motor are cheap it's just the labor that gets pricey? How hard would it be to do this job myself?

Money isn't an issue, but I'd prefer not to spend anymore on this car. I told myself after the headers I wasn't gonna spend another dime on this car until the engine blew and I do my ls3 swap. Well my engine blew a few months early so that ruined my plans for an ls3 swap.
Yeah but you knew it was your head that blew so you could contemplate what you want to upgrade too. I on the other hand have no idea what the deal is with this engine and any mechanic that I ask needs to open it to find out the issue. I'm thinking of just taking the engine out myself and taking a look at it and learning about engines but the possibility of it being something minor and I ****ing it up more scares me.

 

If I had the time to change the head myself, or even a motor if need be, I would do it in a heartbeat.

Now that I have a DD I could do that, back then I didn't so I needed it done ASAP.

I have helped friends rip apart motors and trannys and I wish I was able to do it on my own car.

I think it just creates more respect for your car and you learn so much that in the future if anything were to happen you had the ability to do it ourself and not have to rely on others.

When I eventually get a project car I will do that. Rip the car apart and restore it. I cannot wait for that opportunity.

 

My DD atm is my 07 gsxr 600. It's cold today; it's hell, yet I still love the ride. It's a love/hate relationship
So if I open up the engine how easy/hard would it be to find out what the problem is? (Never seen inside an engine)
Is it common sense like 'ah that's not supposed to be like that..' Or should I open it up and call up a mechanic to take a look at what's wrong?

 

LOL Dreamer...
HR swap, then a 2014 Nismo, annnd you were planning an LS3 swap...

This had ought to be rich. Post pics

 

wow some major misinformation here, yes blue smoke is oil, bent valves will leak oil like a water faucet right through the valve guides and seals. do not swap in a 2jz, your going to spend way more then its worth if anything the only motor you should look into swapping would be a lsx series engine. building a motor isnt that expensive its the labor to swap it in that is expensive, if your going to build the motor have a reputable shop do it that builds cars across SEVERAL platforms, like vinny ten says, getting lucky on one car dosnt mean jack. you can get a rebuild kit from z1 motorsports for like $1800 with new pistons and rods.

if the bearing spun and messed up the crank you can get it tuned down and go with undersized bearings. if it messed up the block good luck, its repairable but probably cheaper to get a shortblock since only certain places know how to do it. if it spun and messed up the rods then the rods are toast but the rebuild kit has new ones.

before you do ANYTHING though diagnose it, we cant do that online, rod knock sounds can be anything, a messed up belt even will sound 100% identical to rod knock, exhaust leaks, could go on all day. have a actual shop diagnose it if you cant. anyone who says they can diagnose rod knock on an online forum is full of ****.

 

Live and learn i guess, but if anyone misses a shift like that and over revs you have to assume a missfire is just a symptom of a much larger problem, you most likely had some bad valve float that resulted in serious damage lol. Ive been lucky the 2 times i missed a shift like that in my maxima (boosted as well). Second time my oil pump decided to explode lol, but that was all that happened...still boggles my mind how that motor is still alive and running haha

 

I wanted an HR swap since I thought it'd be 'plug and play' in a way. Engine is only $500 more than a DE so figured why not.
Nismo isn't a dream, Feb '14 I will have one
Also my original plan was to wait till Feb of '14 and start an LS3 swap and buy a DD (was thinking g37s). But my engine blew way too early and as I can't buy a new car yet, I'm stuck in a f*cked position.

If I decide to I'll post pics.
How would I go about diagnosing it?
Car has no power whatsoever, there is no check engine light, oil pressure is 0 and a loud knocking noise comes from engine

 

stop driving it that should have been a given as soon as it showed 0 oil pressure, pull the oil pan and front cover check oil pump, if good pull the caps and check the bearings, the oil pressure is more important then a noise, you dint mention that before. 0 oil pressure is a measurement "oil pressure dropped" is not it sounds like you pretty much dont know much about car or fixing them so honestly dont even try, have it towed to a shop to do it for you. im all for learning but try it on a cheaper platform like something from the 80's if your interested in that otherwise you will just get pissed off and broke.

 

Cars been sitting the entire time, I haven't drove it ever since it hit 0 pressure.
And I don't see how you can't get 0 pressure by oil pressure dropped completely... I had a mechanic check it out, he said it was the rods on the bottom on the engine, fairly easy to access and replace.
And you're telling me I don't know about cars or fixing them when you know nothing at all about me... You can barely type, yet I know nothing. Holy f*ck now I remember why I stopped coming to this forum. A bunch of smart as*es who think they know it all. God damn man welcome to my ignore list.

 

Someone is trying to help you and you get overly defensive? Just because you think you are mechanically inclined doesn't mean you can rebuild an engine.

I remember you now... You're the clown that was telling a new member that flywheel chatter warranted a full transmission rebuild. So I agree with the other guy, you don't know much about cars at all.