OK so I just hit 68500 miles and the service engine light came on, did an oil change and no luck... Ideas? Tranny oil? Differentials? or can a shop scan for a code to find out what its tripping???

 

yes.. get it scanned.. no brainer

 

several places scan for free but for the price of it get one for yourself. takes seconds to scan at the convinience of your own home

 

that was gonna be my next question.. should I just get my own scanner... consider it done. thanks gents

 

Noted your post...
If I were you,unless you have the extra bucks laying around,don't go
out and buy a scanner.Just head over to one of the auto parts stores,
Auto Zone is a good one,they will scan it for free.When they scan your car,you are gonna get a code.Its not gonna tell you anything.Just a code.
Do a search online for:350Z diagnostic codes.There will be a list that you can match with the code that is read.Some will be pretty specific.Some will need further info.Just a hunch on your car,most CEL's have to do with emmissions
systems.Cat converter,sensors etc.Is your car running any different?
Just get it checked out.

 

I haven't noticed a change, but the code I picked up was P2A00. O2 Sensor Circuit Range/Performance Bank 1 Sensor 1. bought a 70 dollar code reader by Innova and it has a free online service that tells you the code your car is putting out. So not sure if this is my MAF sensor on intake or on my exhaust system yet. time for some more research

 

OK so I'm guessing from what I've seen on the other code forums for this code its going to be the O2 sensor. now looking online I see o2 sensors as the Upstream and downstream.. anyone have a quick explanation of which is which? which one is the one on the exhaust manifold?

 

disregard. so the upstream is before the cats on the exhaust manifold, and the downstream is after the cats.

 

I'd imagine Sensor 1 is upstream on bank on, aka pre-cat

 

You can do a procedure in the car and get it to tell you the codes instead of paying for someone to scan it. I just did this a few weeks ago in my 2006 350Z.

 

I'm going to probably sound a bit harsh, but if you seriously thought that you could clear a check engine light by giving your car an oil change, then you have absolutely NO BUSINESS working on your car and investing in a code reader will be a waste of time and money for you. Find a reputable shop in your area (ask co-workers, friends, etc.) and go there. For your own safety, your car's safety and the safety of those around you, you should not be working on your own car.

 

I was due for an oil change already so I figured that's why it popped up. I'm sorry I'm not a self proclaimed master of the Z like you seem to think you are... if I ruin the car then fine its on me. keep your horse **** to yourself. its not like I'm trying to pull the engine and install new cams when I have no clue what the **** I'd be doing.

I dunno what it is but for some reason the internet makes people think they are armchair professionals and that entitles them to be complete asswipes when they have an opinion. Go **** yourself and get the **** out of here. Forgive me for trying to learn a thing or two... jackass

 

Im lucky my auto program at my college has pretty much every tool in the book. Scanners are expensive lol..
and yeah sensor 1 is precat..
Check grounds and signal wires for the sensor first and connections/wiring to make sure the voltages are in check.
Bank 1 sensor is the most important for air/fuel ratios, so make sure its working properly..If its sluggish and slow to respond back to the PCM then you should notice some drivablility issues..

 

Yeah I don't have the equipment to test the electrical flow at the wires. It was on the list of things to get when I worked on boats. Wish I still worked in a shop that had the tools... my tool bag isn't heavy enough for that yet.

 

I work at Autozone....codes scans are free and you can also get a printout of the code diagnosis. But Bank 1 sensor 1 is the going to be on the side of the motor where cylinder 1 is (pass side is bank 1 on the Z) and sensor 1 is before the cat.

 

If you have some money invest in a DVOM. Very useful

 

So sensor 1 replaced and light came back on 50 miles after. Looks like I'm going to a shop . Any idea what might set the sensor off? Do the CPUs put out info about the code other then just what sensor is putting out a code?

 

Things such as, misfires, fuel delivery, and other related issues, can cause the oxygen sensor to set off the CEL. If that bank of cylinders isn't getting the proper a/f ratios that the computer sees as acceptable,or they aren't being properly burned, the o2 sensor throws the code.

 

Don't let the shop shotgun parts for your car, look to why the o2 sensor causes the PCM to throw a code ( o2 doesn't throw codes @myo3z) and don't go directly to thinking the o2 is bad

 

Good luck, based on that outburst you won't be getting any help from me.

EDIT - zakmartin is one of the more helpful and mechanically inclined/savvy individuals on this site. Think about what you are posting before you start burning bridges.