Hey guys looking to do a tune up on the Z that i just picked up. Its a base 03 has about 107k on it now. I've been searching threads and forums from all over opinions are all over the place. A lot of the threads are from back in 04-05 I've always used mobil one in my previous cars and just wanted to know if synthetic is a good choice? I've been reading good things about Amsoil but it just tends to be a bit pricier? This is a car that I've always wanted and now that I got it i just want to make sure I treat the best I just want some clarification so I apologize for trollin.

The car shows that its been getting regular oil changes at jiffy lube every 3k but what i hear is that they don't always use the highest quality oil. Any input would help.

 

Personally,I would not use a full synthetic oil on a used car unless you have
records showing that it was used.I'd use 5w/30 syn blend.I like Valvolene.
If you want to do the 3k oil changes thats OK.However,not really necessary
to do changes at that interval.Around 5k+ is not gonna hurt anything.

 

I've always used Shell rotella sythetic 5-40 on all my cars and race bikes. We use it in all our farm semis that are still going strong with over 1 million miles on them. Amazing oil and about 10$ a gallon less than any other full synthetic. All the university independent testing shows it one of the best. In the racebikes we rev to 20k rpms and tear them down after every 3 races and the bearings are always looking great. I lost an oil return line on my g35 on the way home from texas and ended up driving half the trip with less than 1/2 quart of oil in it. The oil pressure sensor ended up being faulty. Pulled the engine to check the bearings and only had wear on #5 rod bearing. Everything else looked great for running without oil.

Anyways, higher mileage engines that have been running on conventional oil all their life should be left on conventional. There is nothing wrong with conventional oils. I personally don't believe switching to synthetic will make the engine seals leak like the myth says but I do believe you should use the type of oil the engine has used most of it's life and not switch back and forth.

Amsoil is a good oil but there is no benefit to running it unless you use it from the start of a fresh engine. You already have wear and high mileage so a more expensive oil won't reverse that.

 

I doubt there is anything wrong with switching to synthetic. But as long as you change your oil at reasonable intervals it doesn't matter what type you use. People obsess over it, but unless you race your car or something out of the ordinary, you'll be fine with pretty much any brand or type.

 

I have been running M1 since I had my 08 at 24K...used in all my vehicles,switch to synth,check for any leaks that may occur,if no leaks, then you should be good to go.

 

number one.

https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-...-and-info.html

number two.

Oil is Oil, conventional means you change more frequently, synthetic means you change less frequently, thats the only difference. No oil is going to wear out any rods, bearings, valves, etc. because each oil has to meet federal specs to be sold. Switching from synthetic to a conventional and back doesnt mean anything to the engine because its purely a lubricant.

Number three.

With all of the above being said, my choices for synthetic have always been mobil1 0w-40 european car formula, Castrol european formula or Shell Rotella 5w-30, and for conventional Mobil1 5w-30 or castrol GTX, usually i just buy whatever is on sell.

Oil filters are always, Napa Golds, Wix, or Purolator.

 

100% wrong, there are several different specs available and not all oils meet all of them. synthetic provides a "slicker" film, both synthetic and conventional have detergent in them and oil changes for both will be the same everything else equal. what affects that is how quickly the oil breaks down, some conventionals beat synthetics and vice versa. also on the terms of of certifications they actually hurt oil because the gas engine ones require a reduction in the high pressure anti wear additives of zinc and phosphorus because they kill cats, the same was done on diesel engines but they arnt the same. gas engine oils will have 600-800 ppm of these things all while meeting the same certification, diesel oils will show 1000-1300 ppm of these additives under the most current certifications, one of the reasons rotella does so well in race engines because it is a diesel oil. the all out "Race" oils usually meet no certifications(if they are actually the race version, not the street oriented version) and will have similar additive packages to the diesel oils sometimes hitting as high as 1600 ppm in the anti wear additives, however unless your running something crazy like a 1500 whp+ engine you wont need it and even then you will get more benefit going to a "thicker" or more viscous oil like 20w40 or 25w50

i can tell you from personal experience running 10w30 rotella my oil temps would get much hotter then the 15w40 rotella, about 210 vs 180 on the 15w40 and it would leak slightly at higher boost somewhere allowing the engine to burn just a tiny bit i think from the valve covers, i do have more then normal blowby however because my gaps are built loose.

 

You contradicted yourself in your first and second sentence. also you have no facts or anything to back that up, so im taking it as purely an opinion.


Honestly, Our cars do not run on diesel, so the fact rotella is a diesel oil is not even a topic on the discussion, I would expect rotella oils to be different because they have different purposes.

There is an oil analysis done by blackwater that i listed, not a single conventional oil beat their synthetic counterparts in terms of engine wear. Rotella does well, not because it is a diesel oil, but because it is a well made synthetic oil for high performance, such as amsoil or mobil 1. The fact that it has a higher amount of cleaners and additives does not make it a diesel oil whether its marketed that way or not but a well made heavy duty synthetic oil, because the grades and specs being used are not for diesel cars, but for our gas engines (5w-30 or 5w-40), whether or not they are being raced or not.

Our engines were designed for 5w-30, the reason your oil temps are hot is because either you dont have an oil cooler, and your using a higher grade of oil making it thicker and harder to pump through the engine because it takes a lot more time to get to operating temp. Normal operating temps for oil should be 195-220, depending on the outside conditions, your usage of the 15w-40 should show you its not the right oil to use based on the fact of the oil temp. If the oil is at op temp, its lubrication abilities go down and causes engine wear damage.

In the OPs situation, he just needs everyday oil to run for his DD, not oil for his semi, or race oil. So idk what you were trying to say or prove but

 

how did i contradict myself hmmm? the facts to back up what i say is in the very same thread you linked not 2 brands of the oil have the same additives in them you simply dont look at **** before commenting. just because our cars dont run on diesel means absolutely nothing the fact of the matter is it is a oil designed to withstand heavy abuse, you ignoring the facts is a fallacy because the oils are used quite regularly in gas engines. also your exact words where "oil is oil" which is absolutely 100% false because each has its own formulation and claiming "oil is oil" as you do includes gas, diesel, 2 stroke, motorcycle because you did not specify.

the end of your statement makes it clear you have no idea what your talking about it not all rotella is a synthetic oil and none are high performance, it is not nor ever has been marketed as such, in fact every single jug made states specifically "diesel oil" and lists the diesel certifications it meets, it does not list a single gas engine specification. in fact all the other diesel oils perform similarly you should again check your own damn facts before speaking up since the other diesel oils performing similarly is listed on several diesel sites under there own uoa section, rotella is just one of the cheapest.

you are correct the higher level of additives has nothing to do with it, the fact it is formulated specifically for diesels makes it a diesel oil. let me help you though since you obviously have no clue what your talking about a quote "The Energized Protection of Shell Rotella heavy duty diesel engine oils provides protection in three critical areas:" anddddd the source.
http://www.shell.com/rotella/products.html

the very ending again you show your a idiot and have no clue who i am, 1)the engines dont have to run a oil cooler 2) i run a 24 row thank you very much 3) how do you know what my engine was designed to run? last i checked i blueprinted the engine myself not using factory clearances which means the "Recommended oil" dosnt apply. 4)again you have no clue what your talking about if my engine oil isnt getting past 180 after normal driving for an hour and 30-45 minutes of repeated 600+ whp pulls where i can see the headers getting red hot through my hood vents its not going to go past that period. 5) thicker oil is needed to handle higher loads, my proof is in the fact that i have more miles on my engine then 90% of the guys with spun bearings and it still runs perfectly strong your ignorance is astounding considering engine in the 70's and 80's regularly ran in the 180 degree range with no issues as do most modern performance engine the higher operating temp is to provide better catalytic converter operation it has no effect on actual lubrication property's, in fact the more heat and more heat cycles a engine endures the quicker it wears out, as long as its getting above 140-160 its perfectly fine.

so all in all move along because its pretty apparent your simply regurgitating what other people tell you

 

Castrol 5w50 or Shell Rotella T6 5w40, all damn day, in all my cars.

 

This link is all you need.

 

In this thread, OP was asking for advice on oil for a DD, not a lecture on oil theory, which is why i stated oil is oil when it comes to the 5w-30 brands recommended for our cars, you came out of nowhere trying to explain how every oil, not just the ones for our cars but every oil for every kind of engine is different and thats not what the topic is.

You agree with me on some facts than tell me im an idiot by saying the same exact thing i said previously to make your points that its a diesel oil designed for diesel trucks but it can be used in our cars. but OK bro, you know what your doing

and Rotella is marketed as a synthetic oil.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...ontent=8120031

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Shell-Rote...1-Gal/14958681


I dont see anywhere on that bottle where it says "diesel oil" and thats from three different places. I will leave it at this.


+1 ^

 

Rotella is designed for diesel engines. It lists the diesel requirements on the back of the bottle. When they redesigned the bottle a few years back they stopped putting "diesel" on the front because it's perfectly safe for gasoline engines. It's pure marketing and nothing to do with the product. It's also located in the diesel engine oil section in walmart, rural king, tractor supply, etc.

Where it says "heavy duty" it used to say "diesel oil". I wish I had a picture of the old 55 gallon drums we had on the farm that said it. I guess you haven't been changing oils long enough to remember so you'll just have to take my word for it.

 

Oh i have been changing oils for while, but for my 350z was the first car I have used Rotella on, I have always been a Mobil 1 or Castrol man, but no i agree its a diesel oil, but the Jerryd was saying it isnt marketed as a synthetic heavy duty oil but as a diesel oil which it is now, and that oil isnt the same, to which he brought up that Rotella is a diesel oil, which can be used in our cars just fine, reiterating my point that oil is oil, but i will take your word on it Binder, either way its a damn good oil and it will work perfectly fine for OPs DD.

 

ya, I hear ya. After reading my post it was kind of condescending so I apologize for that. They did market it as diesel oil but I guess realized if they switched it up and put only heavy duty that they could pull in more sales. I don't know if I would trust other diesel oils in my car though. Rotella is a special beast on it's own.

 

Your cool bro its the internet, you cant read context over actual text, if we were standing right in front of each other talking, I wouldnt have taken it as condescending, we are men, we were just having a discussion haha

 

100% agree with above posted link to UOA thread. Read the chart, pick an oil with a lot of green boxes and NO red boxes. For this reason, I searched out German Castrol (0W-30) at a local Autozone. Generally speaking, UOA's point toward the VQ specifically liking oil that is a bit thinner when cold, and a bit thicker when hot, relative to factory spec. For a 30 weight, German Castrol measures on the thicker side at temperature, close to the specs of an average 40 weight. Personally, I've experienced more consistent oil pressure readings across the temperature spectrum with GC than with the oils I used previously.

 

Its the best source for our engines.

 

keep showing your ignorance since i quoted directly from rotellas website, and again your a idiot because not all rotella is marketed as a synthetic oil ONLY t6 is, t5 is marketed as a synthetic BLEND, tripler protection, t3 and t1 are ALL conventional oils. picking bits and pieces of information to try and support your claims so you dont look stupid just makes you look that much dumber. the op asked for recent opinions on oils show me where he specifically asked for opinions on only 5w30 or only specific brands?

where have i agreed with you? your claiming is a performance oil, its not its a diesel oil, every single "heavy duty oil" branded oil is a diesel oil but thats ok i showed you where it is directly from the manufacturer, ignoring the manufacturer and linking walmart and amazon just helps me prove how retarded you are. i guess the fact it lists the diesel specifications and not gas ones is also something you conveniently ignore, living in a fantasy world must be nice.

 

how does anything i say back up your "oil is oil" statement holy **** your attempts to connect **** where there is no connection is worse then a 911 conspiracy theorist. everything i have said disagrees with you that there is very large differences in oils do the additive packages, and that no 2 oils are the same. how the hell you try and manipulated what im saying into agreeing with you is beyond me