I got my car serviced at the dealership today and they mentioned my serpentine belt is cracking and should be replaced soon.. I checked it out and it does have some cracks in it so I'm interested in replacing it. The dealership quoted me $175 to replace it. Is that high?

 

the belt is extremely easy to change. even if the $175 is including the belt, the cost is crazy. buy a belt on your own and find an indy shop to do it if you're not able to on your own. might as well change both belts while you're at it.

 

Pick up a belt,or better yet,replace both.A local garage in my area would pop e'm on for 20 bucks.
$175?Are you kidding?

 

Search for the DIY thread on this site. Tool me ~15 minutes on my HR with just a few hand tools, and the belt was maybe $25 (I can't recall the exact price, but I bought a Gates). The DE's have 2 belts, but it's the same basic job.

 

Thanks for the responses everyone. I will just pick up both belts and replace them myself. I read the DIY guide for the HR but my DE seems to be a little different. Does the DE have an auto tensioner pulley like the HR?

This thing
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/h...350Z/belt4.jpg

 

+1 to do it yourself…very easy 2 of 10…

no, the DE has a mechanical tensioner…

you have to loosen the center bolt (center of the pulley)
loosen the vertical tensioning bolt that takes all the tension off the belt,
remove the belt
put the new belt on
re-tension the belt with the vertical tensioning bolt
re-tighten the center bolt(in the middle of the pulley)

drive around for an hour, loosen the center bolt and put a little more tension on the belt because it stretches a little after it's installed and then re-tighten the center bolt.

http://www (dot) 350z (dash) tech (dot) com/wiki/index.php?title=Drive_and_Accessory_Belt_Replacement

 

Thanks bealljk. I found this thread which helped alot.

https://my350z.com/forum/engine-driv...very-easy.html

How critical are the deflection and tension of the belts? I read mixed opinions in the thread above.

I think I'm going to count the turns when I take off the worn belts and use that to get me started with the new belts. Then to dial it in I was thinking I would just find something that is 22lbs, grab a ruler and get within the 3.5-4.5mm (bigger belt) and 8-9mm (AC belt) deflection specifications. Then torque the locking nuts to 26 ft-lbs and check it again after a day or two of driving. Does that sound adequate or should I get a tension gauge?

 

Yep, great post. Great help. 175 is way high.

 

Well I called my dealership today and not only do they not have the belts in stock.. They want $73 for them! Sounds high again.. I'm gonna call some different dealerships but how important is the brand? I might pick up some gates belts like dcains did or something.

Edit: got the belts from a different dealership for $70.

 

You overpaid for the belt..but hey whatever works. It's fairly simple to replace the belts. Remember to take note of how they're on so you can put them back the same way.

 

Gates or Goodyear garorback belts are good choices.

 

Dude, stop going to the dealership for all your parts. Sheesh. I only use a dealer if it's an OEM item that no one else produces (driveshaft/axle bolts, obscure gaskets, etc).

 

Just bought both belts yesterday at Advanced Auto Parts for $40. Will be doing this project today.

 

Takes pics of the removal and install

 

Return those belts and get Gates belts!

Napa has them for great prices.

I ran a Gates belt on my supercharger on my Civic for almost 2 years with no issue. The supercharger gave out before the belt did!

 

Not much to it...the FSM is good enough in my opinion. Everyone really should download it and look it over as it answers lots of maintenance questions.

 

After seeing your post and researching a bit I decide to go the Gates route. Returned my Advance Auto belts and went to Napa and got some Gates.

 

No need. It has been done here: https://my350z.com/forum/engine-driv...very-easy.html

It was an easy job. just finished. Ran into 1 problem. The black metal dust shield bent on me when re installing the pulley nut. Did not sit straight on the pulley and when I tightened it down the nut jammed on the shield and it bent it. The dust shield metal is very very thin and it pinched it enough where the metal broke. So i had a ring of metal around the bottom of the bolt. Tried just using a washer since the hole in the shield was now larger than normal, and the nut would have just spun through. Went to reinstall again and the nut got caught up on the metal ring that was created and wound up stripping the threads on the nut. Thank god not the bolt. Had to completely remove the pulley assembly, and pick away at the metal ring mess of crap I created. Removed all the metal shards and threads that were stuck on the bolt. Went to Lowes and got a new nut. Used a washer and put it all back to together. Easy install but it can be a PITA if you bend that shield.

Pics below of what a bad belt looks like. Replaced it just in time before it went. 2006 54k miles, never replaced the belts before.

 

Just completed the install. Only took about an hour and it was very easy. Hardest part was getting the car jacked up..

Why all the hate for my OEM belts?? Mine say "Nissan" and "Made In Japan" on them!

@labelworkshop wow I have a 2006 with 54k miles on it and I just replaced mine for the first time as well. My belts looked verry similar to yours as well. Only 1 chip in the smaller belt though. Just a bunch of cracks in the bigger one.