I have a 2007 Z and fortunately, I'm still on the stock battery but 'looking to change it out soon. Can anyone recommend a good battery that they use on their Z that is NOT an Optima (red or yellow top) battery?

..It's just that I've read some reviews on the yellow top battery and it seems to be a hit or miss. I just don't want to pull the trigger on the Optima brand and have it quit on me a year later or something. ANY information on the type that you use and years of use, would be helpful. Thanks!

 

Interstate

 

What is the purpose of changing battery ? Do you run high-powered electric devices ? Is your current battery on its way out ?

If I may suggest and if your current battery is in normal condition, get an affordable float charger and run it from time to time or continuously when the car is in extended parked or storage mode. A good float charger (not trickle) can recondition a weak battery.

 

Just go to a Nissan dealer and get an OEM battery. They are about as good as you can get.

 

Nissan OEM batteries (mostly made by Panasonic) are superior and do last a long time. However, Nissan North America doesn’t ship replacements all the way from Japan, instead they have them made up here with a Nissan logo. Cosco has high quality batteries (consumers report) and often on sale. I got a high C S rated, group 35 size battery for $35 for my 350Z.

 

The main reason I want to switch out the oem battery is for maintenance. It's been going good for almost 7 years! (mainly because I hardly use the car) The last time i took it to garage, they told me it was running on the weak side... I didn't have to look at the diagnostic print out ( was in a hurry) ... so I thought it would be a good time to switch it out and not worry about getting stuck out in the middle of nowhere

I am still running the stock radio, but want to put in a new one soon. 'Nothing crazy...just a head unit and some speakers.

Thanks for all replies!

 

@ Jennifer.... wOw! $35 for the battery?? ...how long is it lasting?

 

+1 on COSTCO batteries. They seem well built and have a long (60 month) progressive warranty. For the price, I use them in both my race and street Z33s.

 

Moved since you don't have a 370z

I bought an Interstate, works fine

 

Huanadoly, Basically three companies, Delphi, Exide and Johnson Controls make 99% of the batteries sold under various brand names in the USA. So whether it’s branded Interstate, Lexus, Motorcraft or any of the numerous brands sold here chances it was made by one of these manufactures. Johnson Controles makes both the American supplied Nissan batteries as well as the Costco ones. Cosco specs the batteries with performance and cold-cranking ratings that match or exceed any of the super-premium offerings. One thing unique to Cosco is they offer a no-question-asked full replacement warranty instead of the industry standard (very puny) pro-rated credit. Most industry experts say that Cosco is by far is the best deal in a replacement battery.

Also, because they sell so many of them, the batteries are always fresh stock. If you catch a sale or discount deal like I did the price is a fraction of buying elsewhere.

 

Jennifer 2 is sort of correct- the vast majority of the batteries in this country are made by one of three companies. Optima is owned by Johnson Controls, who manufactures many of the other brands mentioned in this thread. We still manufacture all of our own batteries in our own facility and we never re-spec or re-brand them for any of our retail partners.

Most auto parts stores can load-test your current battery, to see if it really needs to be replaced and many will do it for free. That might be the best place to start, as your current battery may continue to work for quite some time.

While I can understand that individual experiences may vary, the quality of our products has never been better and many of the "bad" batteries returned to us under warranty are just deeply-discharged and work fine, once properly-recharged. Just ask the ChumpCar racers- we've filled entire fields of race cars with someone else's battery warranty returns.

The key to long battery life, regardless of brand or manufacturer, is proper voltage maintenance. When any battery is discharged below 12.4 volts, sulfation begins to form, which diminishes both capacity and lifespan. That makes a quality battery maintenance device an excellent investment for any vehicle that doesn't see regular use.

Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries, Inc.
www.pinterest.com/optimabatteries

 

Napa Gold battery. Best bang for your buck. Have had mine for over 2 years now with 0 issues.

Whatever you decide on, DO NOT GET DURALAST. Autozone parts are such garbage!

 

Seriously I was headed there for a Duralast Gold today.. Reviews seem really good on this battery from what I've read

 

Duralast is also made by Johnson Controls.

 

Rather than start a new thread, I'll dig this one up.
I'm looking for the lightest, yet reliable battery other than a $1k lithium battery. I'm in NC where the winter temps are typically low thirties or higher which says something about the amount of cca's I'd need.
Anyone have similar winter temps and a lighter than stock battery that they'd recommend for a naturally aspirated VQ?

 

Wow- rather than resurrecting the dead, it would be better to start a new thread. In looking at lightweight batteries for racing, I found they have lower CCA and reserve power across the board for anything under a grand. Even the Optima batteries only offer a slight reduction (a few ounces less) than the Interstate batteries now available at Costco. Unless you have some overriding reason to NEED a lightweight battery, I'd stick with a known brand with reliable power ratings.

 

I typically replace the battery every 3 years. I don't care if it's still good, I just replace it. Never had a flat tire or a brake down in my life but I did get left stranded for a bit due to a battery.
Less cca and reserve is fine by me. cca's are already higher than necessary for the southeast. cca's are set up for the VQ predicated upon people owning VQ's from Nebraska, where a higher cca is desirable to Florida, where 640 (?) cca's is overkill.
I'd like to be able to shave 10lbs off the battery. It sits high in the engine bay raising the center of gravity and, well, it's in the engine bay up front where it's weight adds to nose dive. I might relocate it to the rear as well. It's all the little things that add up.
I believe 440-490 cca's would be good for the southeast. I researched this awhile back but I cannot remember where I saved the info.

 

You know I have that Braille 11lb battery and it has 486 cranking amps at 32degrees, has 15amp*hours worth of charge. Which is fine for about 6-8 starts before it drops below ~12volts and wont crank. Albeit I dont have a PS pump nor AC and minimal in-cab ammenities. I paid around $160 for it a few years back.

If/when I have it over I'll jump up to a 20-25amp*hour battery which is their 17lbs battery. Still 1/2 the weight of the OEM.

Check out what Braille has on the 21lb battery, 742 cranking amps at 32degrees, 31 amp*hours, $230.

 

I did a little more reading earlier and came to the conclusion that I'd be best off with a conventional type battery with lower cca's. Found a napa (440 cca) and a duracell (500 cca) battery so far that are near 10lbs lighter than stock. Everything is power in this damn FX. Things like the telescopic steering wheel and seat that move every time the door opens might be an issue with one of these smaller batteries and I don't think spending $1k on a lithium is a wise decision, so I'm kinda stuck but at least I can drop around 25% of the weight with confidence.

 

I used to run a PC680MJ in the Z. It's about 14lbs, but these batteries will not last if you let them drain by accident. No problems starting cold. I run just a regular smaller battery now from Walmart that was $94 with 3 year free replacement.