I've gone through a few threads and have done my reading. I think my situation is a bit special considering my Viper 5901. I messed up the alarm but car was still working, till a few days ago.. I installed my alarm about a year and 4 months ago and got everything to work how it was suppose to, and had been working perfectly up till a few days ago (minus a mishap with the window up/down feature that I messed up that same day of install and a bypass module that died on me). I used this DIY https://my350z.com/forum/audio-video...diy-guide.html I also posted my problem in there except another problem happened which is my reason for posting this thread.

Sorry if this seems long winded but I want to make sure everyone who reads this, understands the situation thoroughly.

Well, a week or two ago, I decided to change out my subwooder and I disconnected the negative and positive from the battery to do so. Well, when I was done putting it back together, I got lazy and decided to stupidly use a battery powered drill to screw back on the nut to the positive terminal. Sparks flew everywhere and my alarm started to go off. My alarm stopped responding to my remote and my antenna/valet stopped showing the blue LED. I have 2 horns installed on the alarm. One in the engine bay and the other in the cabin (just like in the DIY). The horn on the outside doesn't sound anymore but the one in the cabin goes off any time the H1 harness plus the bypass and antenna is connected to the brain.

Everything else works in the car. Factory remote locks and unlocks, and sounds the factory horn as it use to before the alarm. Headlights and tail lights work. Radio, speakers, and dash work. Basically everything worked except the Viper alarm.

I bought a refurbished brain to try and see if the brain was fried but it does the same thing. I've left the battery (+) and (-) disconnected over night. I've left both brains disconnected. I've connected either brain and left battery disconnected on various nights. I've tried to disarm by leaving the door open and turning the ignition to the on position and pressing the valet button but the LED doesn't glow or show any signs of response. I've also tried to lock and unlock from the outside with the key in the door and the alarm in the cabin would stop going off when the key position was fully turned in either locked or unlocked position and the blue LED light flickers or is constantly on until I let go of the key position. And the alarm on the outside would give single beeps in intervals of 5 seconds. I've also checked all the fuses. Both in engine bay, ones by BCM, and 3 that come from the alarm brain, it's all intact

I made a video a day or two after this happened to give a visual of what happens when I have the brain connected and I try to disarm
In the video you clearly hear the car turn on. The car turned on so long as the H3 harness was plugged into the brain. Hell, I drove it to the store, then to a friends, then back home. But a few days ago, it wouldn't crank anymore...

Now, when I try to turn on my car all my hear is a click near/on my starter. I actually didn't know where the starter was till a friend with a 350Z also, said that's where the noise was coming from. So, this is where I began reading about starting issues. The click was a single click when I tried to turn it on. Yes I also tried to jump the car, didn't work. Everything still works the same minus the alarm of course, which I still have connected with the harness that allows it to turn on as in the video. I've also tried to turn it on without it being connected and when I do that, there's not even a click.

Another note, a new antenna and bypass module that I ordered shortly after that video, came in today. I thought maybe those two items would fix the alarm issue. And while waiting for those parts, was when the car also stopped working. So, I thought maybe if I have my alarm working with the two new items, then my car will start. But, no... . Although, the single clicks turned into consecutive clicks and I remember reading that some people had battery problems when it did that despite the voltage readings, so, I went to Walmart and swapped out my old one for new battery (I got it for free so that lifted my spirits a bit). But, the new battery didn't work either But.. while putting in the new battery I also noticed the negative wire from the battery to the chassis had a burn mark on it, and there was a ground wire near it that went to the horn in the engine bay.. I remember reading a post from Vivid Racing (sp) replying to another thread, saying to check ground cables so I'm gonna swap out all my ground cables in the engine bay tomorrow (I was planning on doing the big 3 for my system anyways).

The clicking turned back into a single click. I then lifted the front and got under the car and had my brother try to turn it on while I hit the starter (old trick I learned when I had an Integra) and it still just made a single click every time. Although I could feel the clicking coming right from the starter. I don't want to get the starter if it's something else.. I've read some threads mentioning the BCM and possibly replacing it, but the OP's ended up not needing to and that's I wanna have to get even less than a starter.. The lights that show are on the dash are the normal lights plus the battery and Service Engine soon, but I just checked and it's throwing P0000; No self diagnostic failer indicated

Does anyone have any leads or suggestions on how I should approach this next?

 

I've been super busy with school and haven't had time to tinker but I did come across http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/350Z/coupe/2003/sc.pdf thanks JasonZ-YA for posting it. Finals are in two weeks so I won't get to diagnose 'till then. If anyone has any suggestions I'd greatly appreciate it.

 

Been busy with school and took finals over the past few days but I finally fixed the no starting issue. Ended up being my starter. I still haven't found out the issue with my alarm. I'll troubleshoot some more tomorrow when I get a chance.