So I have a 2007 350z, base model and the only aftermarket work done to it is a Weapon-r intake. I got back from a deployment a few weeks ago and started it up for the first time in 6 months. The check engine light came on and stayed on after a few resets. The codes I pulled off of it were P1168 and P0051 which are bank 2 closed loop and bank 2 sensor 1 bad. That would indicate that the A/F sensor (upstream) on the drivers side is bad if I'm not mistaken. Anyways, I got a new one and spent 3 hours trying to get the old one out with no luck. I went in from underneath and used 2 breaker bars but the f***er must have welded itself in there. The most I did was round the bolt up a little and bust my knuckles.

Does anyone know a better approach to remove this sensor? Or another solution to this problem other than turning off the code? I have to get my inspection done for registration this month so I'm kind of in a hurry. Not to mention I heard the dealer charges around $900 for this job...

Thanks

 

You may have to remove the manifold or use a torch.

 

pb blaster to loosen the threads, be sure not to use a torch afterwards, that stuff is flammable. also use a low profile o2 sensor socket, not the long cheap one from oreily's. the socket walls will flex and round off the bolt.

 

Use a small butane or map gas torch to warm up the bung, not the sensor itself. Then use a quality O2 socket to remove it. You may have to protect some things from burning with tin foil or other metal.

 

Update:

Second attempt and no luck. Used PB blaster and torch, used a decent O2 socket as well. The bolt head is completely rounded off now. The socket wasn't even slipping off. I applied a large amount of torque and it just refused to turn, I could literally feel the edges of the bolt head shearing off inside of the socket as I used more force. Looking for a shear socket set, but I'm convinced this sensor is just stuck. Other than dropping the header I have no idea what to do at this point, and if I do that I might as well put in new headers, it would save some effort removing that sensor and still would be cheaper than what the dealer would charge to replace the sensor. But there's no way ill have it done by the time I need to pass inspection. I guess NC is **** about this kind of ****. Any other ideas?

 

Ohh, and plugging in the new sensor and just ziptieing it to another wire only worked for a day before the engine light came on again. I know that's not a solution to the problem but I was hoping it would get me through emissions.

 

I take it you're at bragg? Ken's muffler on the corner of skibo and bragg blvd is cheap, and they do decent work.