clutch dead already?
#21
In all honesty bro, unless you're highway driving, don't even touch 6th.. In Vegas most of our roads are 45 mph limit, 80% of the people drive 50-60 on said roads and when I'm with them in traffic I'm sitting in 5th without a problem.. But definitely get it checked out in case there is something serious going on.
#22
#23
Lol I have done tons of research. I lose power in 6th and my slip light comes on. Unless I take it out of gear and drop into 5th I get no power. Then I can go back up to 6th and it will stay for a while until I accelerate More than just a tiny bit. But yes I am a noob thus I come seeking knowledge from you fine folks are you thinking it could be something else?
This is not a symptom of clutch slippage. Best way is to accelerate up a steep hill, shift up a gear, use full throttle and note if the RPMs jump up without a corresponding increase in speed.
#24
Jedr1337, I’m a little confused because you said the car was a base model. However, the base does not have traction control or VDC and would not have a ‘slip’ light on the dash. At any rate, for models with TC the system looks for wheel slippage and when it senses wheel spin it kills engine power until the spinning wheel regains traction. If your car has TC and the tire sizes front to back are way out spec, or something else is causing the traction control to deploy, you will feel a large reduction in power for as long as the slip light is lit.
This is not a symptom of clutch slippage. Best way is to accelerate up a steep hill, shift up a gear, use full throttle and note if the RPMs jump up without a corresponding increase in speed.
This is not a symptom of clutch slippage. Best way is to accelerate up a steep hill, shift up a gear, use full throttle and note if the RPMs jump up without a corresponding increase in speed.
#25
I didn't know how to drive stick at all when I bought my Z. It had 78k on it when I got it and I for sure burned it a lot while learning. Here I am 15k miles later and 0% signs of slipping or worn clutch. Now that I can drive stick I have abused it from time to time and it still holds awesome. The dealer is either bull shitting you on the clutch being replaced or you have something else going on.
#26
In all honesty bro, unless you're highway driving, don't even touch 6th.. In Vegas most of our roads are 45 mph limit, 80% of the people drive 50-60 on said roads and when I'm with them in traffic I'm sitting in 5th without a problem.. But definitely get it checked out in case there is something serious going on.
#28
#29
Update: checked nissan USA site to call bs on the dealer, but sure enough oem clutch not available.
Last edited by jedr1337; 01-20-2014 at 05:06 PM.
#31
And as far as I know a Nissan Dealership does offer OEM and aftermarket clutches. I had mine changed on my 04 here in Miami like 18 months ago and the aftermarket part was like $150 or something less than the OEM. The aftermarket one they offered was a Nippon or Denso (main manufactures of all OEM Japanese clutches). I went with OEM because it carried a 1 yr/15,000 mile warranty. Aftermarket was 45 days
#33
Jedr1337, I’m a little confused because you said the car was a base model. However, the base does not have traction control or VDC and would not have a ‘slip’ light on the dash. At any rate, for models with TC the system looks for wheel slippage and when it senses wheel spin it kills engine power until the spinning wheel regains traction. If your car has TC and the tire sizes front to back are way out spec, or something else is causing the traction control to deploy, you will feel a large reduction in power for as long as the slip light is lit.
This is not a symptom of clutch slippage. Best way is to accelerate up a steep hill, shift up a gear, use full throttle and note if the RPMs jump up without a corresponding increase in speed.
This is not a symptom of clutch slippage. Best way is to accelerate up a steep hill, shift up a gear, use full throttle and note if the RPMs jump up without a corresponding increase in speed.
TCS will not reveal a slipping clutch. "Slip" is related to the rear tires. Wrong size tires. Different tire sizes on same axle.
#34
Wow so maybe it isn't base model but I thought base model was only one without the TC off button? What you described is exactly what happens. I actually had heard that before, they are aftermarket rims. I checked tire size front are 245/40r18 but back numbers are illegible. Maybe that is what's going on. TPMS is always on too, so rims must not have sensors. Maybe that is confusing it?
#35
If you are having power in every other gear I can almost guarantee it is not your clutch slipping. Are you sure you know what a slipping clutch feels like? If you can accelerate hard in your lower gears, you don't have a slipping clutch. The car also would not tell you if your clutch is slipping with a slip light, as others have said the slip light comes on when you lose traction on your rear wheels the car then cuts power to try to compensate; you can feel this if you chirp your tires when shifting quickly or spin your tires when accelerating hard. The clutch slipping would be your RPMs rising very quickly and you not gaining any speed as well as your tires aren't spinning faster.
Either way something is wrong if your slip light comes on and cuts power in 6th gear, take it to the dealer and tell them to fix that.
Either way something is wrong if your slip light comes on and cuts power in 6th gear, take it to the dealer and tell them to fix that.
#36
The OEM tire sizes for your car are 225/45/18 on front and 245/45/18 on rear. That gives a stagger, and any replacement tires should have a stagger (difference in OD) of 1/2-1 inch. You can look at the specs on the Tire Rack site to get the OD for most any tire.
If the markings are scrubbed off the outside, look on the inside sidewall.
OH, I'm under 3K because I don't need to run it any faster to enjoy driving the car. My DD is a '00 Silverado and we also have a '12 Accord. Getting in the Z gives the illusion of speed without really going fast, so the fun meter reads high end pretty easily.
If the markings are scrubbed off the outside, look on the inside sidewall.
OH, I'm under 3K because I don't need to run it any faster to enjoy driving the car. My DD is a '00 Silverado and we also have a '12 Accord. Getting in the Z gives the illusion of speed without really going fast, so the fun meter reads high end pretty easily.
Last edited by winchman; 01-21-2014 at 12:21 AM.
#37
Wow so maybe it isn't base model but I thought base model was only one without the TC off button? What you described is exactly what happens. I actually had heard that before, they are aftermarket rims. I checked tire size front are 245/40r18 but back numbers are illegible. Maybe that is what's going on. TPMS is always on too, so rims must not have sensors. Maybe that is confusing it?
If you are having power in every other gear I can almost guarantee it is not your clutch slipping. Are you sure you know what a slipping clutch feels like? If you can accelerate hard in your lower gears, you don't have a slipping clutch. The car also would not tell you if your clutch is slipping with a slip light, as others have said the slip light comes on when you lose traction on your rear wheels the car then cuts power to try to compensate; you can feel this if you chirp your tires when shifting quickly or spin your tires when accelerating hard. The clutch slipping would be your RPMs rising very quickly and you not gaining any speed as well as your tires aren't spinning faster.
Either way something is wrong if your slip light comes on and cuts power in 6th gear, take it to the dealer and tell them to fix that.
Either way something is wrong if your slip light comes on and cuts power in 6th gear, take it to the dealer and tell them to fix that.
#39
I am very confused here. So you are saying you do not have a TCS OFF button, which would be a base, but a SLIP light is coming on? Base 350Z do not have any TCS or VDC so nothing should come on when you spin the wheels. Do you have steering wheel buttons and cruise control?