Hey guys,

I have had my 04 Enthusiast for 8.5 years now. The car has 90k miles and while I have no clutch slippage, I'm starting to notice some "chatter" (not sure if that's what the correct term is) when starting from a dead stop in 1st gear. It's entirely possible that I'm psyching myself out by trying to save the clutch for as long as possible, and not getting into 1st gear and starting to move the car at as high of an RPM that I've used since I've had the car.

Basically I'm just worried.

I want to know what I'm in for when the time comes to replace the clutch. My car is bone stock and I intend to keep it that way (save for my aftermarket 17" wheels with Blizzak tires for the winter). I've done a lot of research on the site, but I'm still a bit confused. I'll openly admit I'm not much of a "car guy". I consider myself a damn good driver, but I'm not very mechanically inclined. Anyways, when the time comes that I HAVE to replace my clutch, I know enough to know that I should also change out the flywheel.

My questions:

What is the cheapest route to go? As I said, I have no desire to add more power or track this car. I just want to keep driving it the same way I have since day one (spirited from time to time). I would prefer to get OEM parts so as to make it as easy of a job as possible for the dealer, where I'll probably get the work done, because even though it might cost more, I tend to trust them a little bit more. I'm in Omaha Ne, so we aren't exactly swamped with a plethora of awesome mechanic shops.

IF however it would be cheaper to get aftermarket parts, I might think about that.

So, knowing all of this, can someone steer me in the right direction as to what they would do if they were me?

Am I really looking at 2k+ if I go with OEM parts and get this done at the dealer?

Also, what other parts should I have them put in, while the tranny is dropped?

Thank you in advance!

 

Don't go the cheapest. Cheap means lots of headaches and more money in the future.

Do it right. Do it once. Check your regional forum for a recommended shop. A shop with 350Z experience. Shops carry clutch-flywheel combinations that they have had good luck with. For example Competition Clutch brand.

Bring-your-own parts and cheap labor stinks.

 

why dont you get the Jim Wolfe clutch and flywheel combo for about 700?

 

I would have an Exedy clutch and new flywheel put in by a dealer or very reputable shop. You should definitely have the clutch fork pivot ball replaced, and possibly the pilot bearing and/or main seal too.
Try slipping the clutch out at about 2000 rpms and see if there's still chatter. If it slips smoothly at 2000 rpm then I'd say your flywheel and plate are ok. The chatter you're experiencing may actually be your driveline moving around in it's soft rubber mounts, which could be toast.

 

you are looking at 700+ just for the clutch.....not knocking exedy, but he did say cheap... for the same cost of just the exedy clutch he can get the jim wolfe clutch and lightweight flywheel

op dont go oem, and i wouldnt take it to the dealer for them to do the work unless you want to be raped by them. hit up the local section for you and see if you can find someone to do it. i help my buddy here replace them, they really arent that hard to do

 

Marine in a Z, I would seriously try to determine if your clutch is warped or not, because if it isn't warped, you most likely have issues with your diff mounts or other soft rubber mounts.

BTW, thanks for your service.

 

yeah, but that is a bid and it is going to go up... the RETAIL price of the kit is about 700. it would be stupid not to replace the flywheel since you are already in there

 

stealth edit huh.... haha.

flywheel chatter is common in our cars.

 

You're quick, I deleted that within 1 minute. You said "just the clutch", then said "clutch and flywheel". Got it.
Btw, that listing had a buy it now price of 325.

 

its slow at work this early....and personally i am not a huge ebay fan.

anyway back on track... op if you are going to replace i would do something other than OEM, and i would also see about doing the flywheel so that you dont have to get back in there later on. good luck, let us know what you decide

 

Agreed, but keep in mind Marine, a one piece aftermarket flywheel may cause some chatter with your foot off the clutch, it can be annoying, but won't be a problem. The JWT is a very popular and proven choice. Make sure you get the pivot ball, if you need a clutch, and check your diff mount too.

 

I agree with what you're saying completely; I should have been more specific!

What is the cheapest route for me to go while accomplishing a job well done for my specific needs--no added power, no track or auto-x?

 

Both of these parts can be had for a total of 700? That's pretty amazing if so.

I checked out courtesyparts.com last night and while the clutch was pretty cheap, the flywheel was like 850 or something.

 

well 775... and stainless steel braided clutch line, new pivot ball, and nismo roller bearing.... and free shipping

https://my350z.com/forum/6564014-post1.html

 

Guys--

Thanks for all the quick responses. Sorry for not using multi-quote, and thanks to whoever said "thanks for your service." You are kindly welcome.

After I made this post last night I went out and drove the car again without issue. I think I'm just being paranoid right now.

A few months ago I started to think about how many miles I'm at and how I still have the stock clutch. In my first car, I blew the clutch at 60k, but the car was driven extremely hard. It was an Eclipse that had 30k miles on it when I bought it and the previous owner ran it hard as well. Anyways, I consider myself a great stick driver now.. Heck, after nine years of driving the Z I can up and downshift with zero "feedback" for lack of a better term. I think lately I've just been in "save the clutch mode" when I take off from a start and by doing so end up launching at a lower rpm than I did the first 8 years. The car desires a launch around 2k with a touch of feathering; I basically never feather outside of that. Hopefully I'm one of the guys that can go 130k or better on the stock clutch.

Thanks for all the feedback guys… I'll keep you posted if my mind changes later today or down the road, haha!

 

Thanks man. I might pick that up when the time comes.

I don't mind a little noise at idle… i should say "increased noise" as the stock setup exhibits this.

I'm one of the guys that experiences that strange whine noise for the first 5-10 minutes of driving when it's cold. It'll be interesting to see if that goes away when I replace all this stuff.

 

European Motors ---87th and Mapel is owned by Chris Szalkowski. He may not work on the Z...but he is honest..if he cant do the work he should direct you to someone who can. He worked on my Jensen Healey when I lived in Omaha.
and..thank you for your service

 

You're welcome sir.

So funny to hear people this day and age say that stuff. Thanks.

Thanks for the input as well, I'll keep him in mind when the time comes. I think I just get paranoid sometimes; no issues driving today whatsoever.